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General Bobcat Skidsteer Forum
Question on hydraulic motors
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<blockquote data-quote="skidsteer.ca" data-source="post: 10926" data-attributes="member: 307"><p><img src="https://www.skidsteerforum.com/Portals/57ad7180-c5e7-49f5-b282-c6475cdb7ee7/TTTGallery/Brusher%20skidsteerca/blades.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="font-size: 10px">I find it better to remove the blades and the holder from the gearbox. This way I don't disturb the blade bolts torque. I have never had a problem with the blade holder coming loose off the gearbox, but I have had trouble with the blade bolts. They must be vary tight</span></span></p><p><img src="https://www.skidsteerforum.com/Portals/57ad7180-c5e7-49f5-b282-c6475cdb7ee7/TTTGallery/Brusher%20skidsteerca/bypass%20loop%20and%20relief%20valve.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="font-size: 10px">Bypass loop has a check valve to prevent pressure from the loader escaping into it. Its purpose is for shutdown. During shutdown, the motor become the pump driven by the inertia of the rotating blades. Then the check valve opens and allows oil through the loop and back to the inlet side of the motor so the blades can wind down as opposed to being forced to stop instantly</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="font-size: 10px"><img src="https://www.skidsteerforum.com/Portals/57ad7180-c5e7-49f5-b282-c6475cdb7ee7/TTTGallery/Brusher%20skidsteerca/Coupler%20motor%20to%20gear%20box.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="font-size: 10px">Original L110 lovejoy coupler was replaced with this. A separate single sprocket on the motor and gear box, coupled by a double wide roller chain. I cut a 1/4 keyway into the gearbox shaft with zip cuts on a angle grinder and quit using the 5/16 shear pin. </span></span></p><p><img src="https://www.skidsteerforum.com/Portals/57ad7180-c5e7-49f5-b282-c6475cdb7ee7/TTTGallery/Brusher%20skidsteerca/cutter%20deck%202.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="font-size: 10px">1/2 by 6 flat iron was run from the fron to rear of the deck at 1/3 and 2/3 the way across to prevent the fron of the deck from bending up further (like a ski) Also notice where the blade tips were rubbing the underside of the deck and the paint can be seen missing in a circle around the outside of the deck This was caused by dumping the bucket cylinders too much and making the crazy wheel carry the front of the loader (bottoming the pivot at the QA</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="font-size: 10px"><img src="https://www.skidsteerforum.com/Portals/57ad7180-c5e7-49f5-b282-c6475cdb7ee7/TTTGallery/Brusher%20skidsteerca/cutter%20deck.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="font-size: 10px">Note the dents in the side of the 1/8 thick I beam that makes up the sides. 1/4 would be better, or a second layer in the hi impact areas.</span></span></p><p> <span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="font-size: 10px">Unpainted 1/2 by 6" flat can be seen standing on edge on top of the deck.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="font-size: 10px">Note the old lovejoy coupling between the gear box and motor, this needed new rubbers every 20 hours.</span></span></p><p><img src="https://www.skidsteerforum.com/Portals/57ad7180-c5e7-49f5-b282-c6475cdb7ee7/TTTGallery/Brusher%20skidsteerca/Dents%20on%20side.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /> </p><p>closeup of dents on the side.</p><p><img src="https://www.skidsteerforum.com/Portals/57ad7180-c5e7-49f5-b282-c6475cdb7ee7/TTTGallery/Brusher%20skidsteerca/front%20wheel.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>This is the old crazy wheel mount. Way too light. The new one is made from 1.5 by 3 by 3/16 box iron and the wheel pivots around on a trailer hub and stub axel assemble that is still to light. I used a 4 stud 2k lb hub, should have used a 6 stud 6k lb hub. Also the hub in the center of the wheel has been rewelded in a few times.</p><p><img src="https://www.skidsteerforum.com/Portals/57ad7180-c5e7-49f5-b282-c6475cdb7ee7/TTTGallery/Brusher%20skidsteerca/Motor%20tag.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>Char Lyn Hyd motor tag. This motor has roller bearing to support the shaft. it was $375.00 at <a href="http://www.surpluscenter.com" target="_blank">www.surpluscenter.com</a> if I recall correctly and puts out @ 550rpm at 17 gpm flow.</p><p>I had a cheaper dan foss for 13 gpm originally, which siezed up. Likely from dirt in the quick couplers. It had no bearing though and worked like a engine crankshaft,floating on a cushion of oil. I could have replaced it for @ $200.</p><p>I also have a hi pressure filter I want to ad to the pressure line from the loader to protect the motor.</p><p><img src="https://www.skidsteerforum.com/Portals/57ad7180-c5e7-49f5-b282-c6475cdb7ee7/TTTGallery/Brusher%20skidsteerca/QA%20Pivot.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>Qa pivots here and is height adjustable</p><p><img src="https://www.skidsteerforum.com/Portals/57ad7180-c5e7-49f5-b282-c6475cdb7ee7/TTTGallery/Brusher%20skidsteerca/reinforced%20blade%20holder.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="font-size: 10px">I added the upright bracing on each side of the center hub, the blades were bending the holder up and the blade tips were hitting the underside of the deck. The 1/2 by 6 they layed flat was not strong enough.</span></span></p><p> <span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="font-size: 10px">Also blade bolts must be vary tight. Read 3/4 impact wrench tight.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="font-size: 10px">Torque, run and retorqued after removal. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="font-size: 10px">Ken</span></span></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="skidsteer.ca, post: 10926, member: 307"] [IMG]https://www.skidsteerforum.com/Portals/57ad7180-c5e7-49f5-b282-c6475cdb7ee7/TTTGallery/Brusher%20skidsteerca/blades.JPG[/IMG] [FONT=Tahoma][SIZE=2]I find it better to remove the blades and the holder from the gearbox. This way I don't disturb the blade bolts torque. I have never had a problem with the blade holder coming loose off the gearbox, but I have had trouble with the blade bolts. They must be vary tight[/SIZE][/FONT] [IMG]https://www.skidsteerforum.com/Portals/57ad7180-c5e7-49f5-b282-c6475cdb7ee7/TTTGallery/Brusher%20skidsteerca/bypass%20loop%20and%20relief%20valve.JPG[/IMG] [FONT=Tahoma][SIZE=2]Bypass loop has a check valve to prevent pressure from the loader escaping into it. Its purpose is for shutdown. During shutdown, the motor become the pump driven by the inertia of the rotating blades. Then the check valve opens and allows oil through the loop and back to the inlet side of the motor so the blades can wind down as opposed to being forced to stop instantly [IMG]https://www.skidsteerforum.com/Portals/57ad7180-c5e7-49f5-b282-c6475cdb7ee7/TTTGallery/Brusher%20skidsteerca/Coupler%20motor%20to%20gear%20box.JPG[/IMG] Original L110 lovejoy coupler was replaced with this. A separate single sprocket on the motor and gear box, coupled by a double wide roller chain. I cut a 1/4 keyway into the gearbox shaft with zip cuts on a angle grinder and quit using the 5/16 shear pin. [/SIZE][/FONT] [IMG]https://www.skidsteerforum.com/Portals/57ad7180-c5e7-49f5-b282-c6475cdb7ee7/TTTGallery/Brusher%20skidsteerca/cutter%20deck%202.JPG[/IMG] [FONT=Tahoma][SIZE=2]1/2 by 6 flat iron was run from the fron to rear of the deck at 1/3 and 2/3 the way across to prevent the fron of the deck from bending up further (like a ski) Also notice where the blade tips were rubbing the underside of the deck and the paint can be seen missing in a circle around the outside of the deck This was caused by dumping the bucket cylinders too much and making the crazy wheel carry the front of the loader (bottoming the pivot at the QA [IMG]https://www.skidsteerforum.com/Portals/57ad7180-c5e7-49f5-b282-c6475cdb7ee7/TTTGallery/Brusher%20skidsteerca/cutter%20deck.JPG[/IMG] Note the dents in the side of the 1/8 thick I beam that makes up the sides. 1/4 would be better, or a second layer in the hi impact areas. Unpainted 1/2 by 6“ flat can be seen standing on edge on top of the deck. Note the old lovejoy coupling between the gear box and motor, this needed new rubbers every 20 hours.[/SIZE][/FONT] [IMG]https://www.skidsteerforum.com/Portals/57ad7180-c5e7-49f5-b282-c6475cdb7ee7/TTTGallery/Brusher%20skidsteerca/Dents%20on%20side.JPG[/IMG] closeup of dents on the side. [IMG]https://www.skidsteerforum.com/Portals/57ad7180-c5e7-49f5-b282-c6475cdb7ee7/TTTGallery/Brusher%20skidsteerca/front%20wheel.JPG[/IMG] This is the old crazy wheel mount. Way too light. The new one is made from 1.5 by 3 by 3/16 box iron and the wheel pivots around on a trailer hub and stub axel assemble that is still to light. I used a 4 stud 2k lb hub, should have used a 6 stud 6k lb hub. Also the hub in the center of the wheel has been rewelded in a few times. [IMG]https://www.skidsteerforum.com/Portals/57ad7180-c5e7-49f5-b282-c6475cdb7ee7/TTTGallery/Brusher%20skidsteerca/Motor%20tag.JPG[/IMG] Char Lyn Hyd motor tag. This motor has roller bearing to support the shaft. it was $375.00 at [URL='http://www.surpluscenter.com']www.surpluscenter.com[/URL] if I recall correctly and puts out @ 550rpm at 17 gpm flow. I had a cheaper dan foss for 13 gpm originally, which siezed up. Likely from dirt in the quick couplers. It had no bearing though and worked like a engine crankshaft,floating on a cushion of oil. I could have replaced it for @ $200. I also have a hi pressure filter I want to ad to the pressure line from the loader to protect the motor. [IMG]https://www.skidsteerforum.com/Portals/57ad7180-c5e7-49f5-b282-c6475cdb7ee7/TTTGallery/Brusher%20skidsteerca/QA%20Pivot.JPG[/IMG] Qa pivots here and is height adjustable [IMG]https://www.skidsteerforum.com/Portals/57ad7180-c5e7-49f5-b282-c6475cdb7ee7/TTTGallery/Brusher%20skidsteerca/reinforced%20blade%20holder.JPG[/IMG] [FONT=Tahoma][SIZE=2]I added the upright bracing on each side of the center hub, the blades were bending the holder up and the blade tips were hitting the underside of the deck. The 1/2 by 6 they layed flat was not strong enough. Also blade bolts must be vary tight. Read 3/4 impact wrench tight. Torque, run and retorqued after removal. Ken[/SIZE][/FONT] [/QUOTE]
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