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Question on hydraulic motors
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<blockquote data-quote="skidsteer.ca" data-source="post: 10821" data-attributes="member: 307"><p>Perry</p><p>I have the same setup on a 60" king kutter.</p><p>The "crazy wheel" was moved to the front and the loader pushes it from the back end. It pivots up and down in front of the loader and the front end is lifted with chains coming forward from the top of the QA plate</p><p>I gave up renting it because the customers don't know how to baby it and I was forever fixing it. Front wheel ripped off, bent, broken hub. deck bent and punctured. Just running it myself has been alot better. </p><p>I see some mowers with the blades hung directly off the hyd motor, I don't know what motor they use but they would require vary heavy bearing and would have to be designed for such heavy use. Far cheaper would be to keep the gear box, new ones can be had for $160 to $250 and let it hold the blades and take the abuse.</p><p>The 60 hp gear boxes are made better with tapered roller bearing with adjustable preload where as the 40 hp gear boxes use ball bearing. I'm surprized the seals last at all, but they seem to. You can look at all the parts at <a href="http://www.kingkutter.com" target="_blank">www.kingkutter.com</a> many makes and models use the same 40 or 60 hp gear boxes</p><p>Pesonally I would not want a chain drive for maintenance reasons, I had no trouble buying a motor that matched up with my loader to run the cutter "direct drive" near 540 rpm.</p><p>Also speed is not that critical. The ones I sell use 2 motors, One for std flow and one for hi flow. My cutter was originally set up for my 13 gpm 753, but it did ok on my 553 at 8.5 gpm.</p><p>When I got my 17 gpm 773 I resized the motor to maintain 540 rpm with a big increase in torque, but it was not as noticable as I thought it would be.</p><p>Honestly, I would look for a 5 or 6' cutter, because the 400.00 for the cutter will be the cheap part if you count your time and other materials. You will over time do quite a bit of re-inforcing of the deck. Fab mounts for the motor, set up a coupler to the gear box.</p><p>The 4' will work, but if you want to mow grass/fields your wheels will be tramping it unless you offset it to one side....</p><p>If you going to do alot of mowing your likely better off with a factory built skidsteer cutter. They have alot more steel in them. Erskines 6' is 1400 lbs</p><p>I keyed the shaft on my gear box to mount the coupler tight to it as I was finding the 5/16" shear pin allowed the outer coupler to wobble around and it was wearing itself out. The relief valve serves as a shear pin</p><p>You should also have a bypass loop with check valve in the system so when you stop the oil flow from the machine, the cutter can circulate its oil in a loop and wind down at its own pace as opposed to stopping right now.</p><p>Skidsteer cutter are alot more money, but most are made with 1/4" thick decks as opposed to 1/8" and have better bracing. </p><p>Also the "crazy wheel" on the front of my cutter, I have busted the hub out of it and bent/broke it off where it swings around.</p><p>The dish in the center that holds the blades had to be re-inforced as it bent and allowed the tips of the blades to come up and rub the underside of the deck All of this stuff would be much easier to beef up while it was still straight.</p><p>I can post you some pictures if you like.</p><p>Talk to the folks a <a href="http://www.surpluscenter.com" target="_blank">www.surpluscenter.com</a> for the hydraulics, or your local hyd shop.</p><p>Overall these do work quite well, but mowing brush is a tough job, hidden rocks,stumps, rough/uneven terrain. Skidsteer is way more nimble then a tractor and the hyd drive has some cushion so your gears and shafts will last much longer.</p><p>Ken</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="skidsteer.ca, post: 10821, member: 307"] Perry I have the same setup on a 60“ king kutter. The “crazy wheel“ was moved to the front and the loader pushes it from the back end. It pivots up and down in front of the loader and the front end is lifted with chains coming forward from the top of the QA plate I gave up renting it because the customers don't know how to baby it and I was forever fixing it. Front wheel ripped off, bent, broken hub. deck bent and punctured. Just running it myself has been alot better. I see some mowers with the blades hung directly off the hyd motor, I don't know what motor they use but they would require vary heavy bearing and would have to be designed for such heavy use. Far cheaper would be to keep the gear box, new ones can be had for $160 to $250 and let it hold the blades and take the abuse. The 60 hp gear boxes are made better with tapered roller bearing with adjustable preload where as the 40 hp gear boxes use ball bearing. I'm surprized the seals last at all, but they seem to. You can look at all the parts at [URL='http://www.kingkutter.com']www.kingkutter.com[/URL] many makes and models use the same 40 or 60 hp gear boxes Pesonally I would not want a chain drive for maintenance reasons, I had no trouble buying a motor that matched up with my loader to run the cutter “direct drive“ near 540 rpm. Also speed is not that critical. The ones I sell use 2 motors, One for std flow and one for hi flow. My cutter was originally set up for my 13 gpm 753, but it did ok on my 553 at 8.5 gpm. When I got my 17 gpm 773 I resized the motor to maintain 540 rpm with a big increase in torque, but it was not as noticable as I thought it would be. Honestly, I would look for a 5 or 6' cutter, because the 400.00 for the cutter will be the cheap part if you count your time and other materials. You will over time do quite a bit of re-inforcing of the deck. Fab mounts for the motor, set up a coupler to the gear box. The 4' will work, but if you want to mow grass/fields your wheels will be tramping it unless you offset it to one side.... If you going to do alot of mowing your likely better off with a factory built skidsteer cutter. They have alot more steel in them. Erskines 6' is 1400 lbs I keyed the shaft on my gear box to mount the coupler tight to it as I was finding the 5/16” shear pin allowed the outer coupler to wobble around and it was wearing itself out. The relief valve serves as a shear pin You should also have a bypass loop with check valve in the system so when you stop the oil flow from the machine, the cutter can circulate its oil in a loop and wind down at its own pace as opposed to stopping right now. Skidsteer cutter are alot more money, but most are made with 1/4” thick decks as opposed to 1/8” and have better bracing. Also the “crazy wheel” on the front of my cutter, I have busted the hub out of it and bent/broke it off where it swings around. The dish in the center that holds the blades had to be re-inforced as it bent and allowed the tips of the blades to come up and rub the underside of the deck All of this stuff would be much easier to beef up while it was still straight. I can post you some pictures if you like. Talk to the folks a [URL='http://www.surpluscenter.com']www.surpluscenter.com[/URL] for the hydraulics, or your local hyd shop. Overall these do work quite well, but mowing brush is a tough job, hidden rocks,stumps, rough/uneven terrain. Skidsteer is way more nimble then a tractor and the hyd drive has some cushion so your gears and shafts will last much longer. Ken [/QUOTE]
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