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Bobcat Skidsteer Forums
General Bobcat Skidsteer Forum
763 Shooting hydraulic oil out the control valve?
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<blockquote data-quote="cmb7684" data-source="post: 65106" data-attributes="member: 1698"><p>Instead of starting a new thread and after a bunch of headaches Im back to repairing this spool valve and getting my machine going again. After 9 months of kicking it around I decided to cut a hole in the side of the machine to get to a stripped out allen screw and was my hold up among other things going on that took priority.</p><p> To others reading this thread here is where I'm at so far in case you find yourself in the same spot. The hardest part by far is getting to the allen screws on the front of the two spool valves. There are three spool valves the top one on my machine has two plates and are for hydraulics and I'm told by mutiple people you do not need to fool with it and by chance if it starts leaking it is only two O rings that are visible and able to be removed by removing the cap on each side.</p><p>The two spool valves below are the one you have to change out and it is highly suggested you do both because if you do one the other will be leaking shortly. I had to remove the regulator with the arrow drawn on top of it to get to the spool valves. I also unbolted the linkage bar that does across the machine that bolts the the spool vavles to the left of the regulator shown on the pic to get it out of the way along with the hose shown in the pic. It makes life a lot easier. Grab the regulator with a wrench I forgot the size and it unsrews.</p><p>Next you will have the pleasure of trying to remove allen screws you cant see. There are two in the front and two in the back of each valve caddy corner to one another. So you have to get out 4 allen screws total n each valve. To save you the time the allen wrench you need is 3/16. I went to harbor freight and got one of those cheap T handle ratcheting drive sets that you can fit mutiple bits in. That thing is a life savor and worth every bit of 10 bucks to get those screws out. You will also need a small 1/4 drive ratchet with a socket (I think it was either 1/4 or 3/8) I forget the exact size socket but what you want to be able to do is switch the 3/16 allen bit that fits in the ratchet t handle drive in to the ratchet as some of the screws are easier to get out that way. What you may find like I did is that the screw had lock tite on it and one of the allen screws against the wall of the machine stripped out causing me to have to use a grinder and cutting wheel to cut a square access to get to the stripped allen screw with a vice grip to get it loose. Leson learned I will not use lock tite on screws that are hard to get to. Having some extensions handy in mutiple lengths that you can but the 3/16 allen bit on to unscrew the allen screw the rest of the way once it is broken loose is also a plus.</p><p>A few things to note if the lower spool valve is the one everyone warns not to let the cap off of that face the rear of the machine because it has bearing that are spring loaded that will fly out. While I was cafeful not to after cleaning the vavle up outside the machine I noticed the cap is on with a pretty stout keeper preventing it from coming off. So maybe others can weigh in how the cap comes off when it is held on with a keeper?</p><p>You will also need to pick up a bunch of cans of brake parts cleaner and shop towels.</p><p>I will follow up with a question on the valve that I have after this post.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="cmb7684, post: 65106, member: 1698"] Instead of starting a new thread and after a bunch of headaches Im back to repairing this spool valve and getting my machine going again. After 9 months of kicking it around I decided to cut a hole in the side of the machine to get to a stripped out allen screw and was my hold up among other things going on that took priority. To others reading this thread here is where I'm at so far in case you find yourself in the same spot. The hardest part by far is getting to the allen screws on the front of the two spool valves. There are three spool valves the top one on my machine has two plates and are for hydraulics and I'm told by mutiple people you do not need to fool with it and by chance if it starts leaking it is only two O rings that are visible and able to be removed by removing the cap on each side. The two spool valves below are the one you have to change out and it is highly suggested you do both because if you do one the other will be leaking shortly. I had to remove the regulator with the arrow drawn on top of it to get to the spool valves. I also unbolted the linkage bar that does across the machine that bolts the the spool vavles to the left of the regulator shown on the pic to get it out of the way along with the hose shown in the pic. It makes life a lot easier. Grab the regulator with a wrench I forgot the size and it unsrews. Next you will have the pleasure of trying to remove allen screws you cant see. There are two in the front and two in the back of each valve caddy corner to one another. So you have to get out 4 allen screws total n each valve. To save you the time the allen wrench you need is 3/16. I went to harbor freight and got one of those cheap T handle ratcheting drive sets that you can fit mutiple bits in. That thing is a life savor and worth every bit of 10 bucks to get those screws out. You will also need a small 1/4 drive ratchet with a socket (I think it was either 1/4 or 3/8) I forget the exact size socket but what you want to be able to do is switch the 3/16 allen bit that fits in the ratchet t handle drive in to the ratchet as some of the screws are easier to get out that way. What you may find like I did is that the screw had lock tite on it and one of the allen screws against the wall of the machine stripped out causing me to have to use a grinder and cutting wheel to cut a square access to get to the stripped allen screw with a vice grip to get it loose. Leson learned I will not use lock tite on screws that are hard to get to. Having some extensions handy in mutiple lengths that you can but the 3/16 allen bit on to unscrew the allen screw the rest of the way once it is broken loose is also a plus. A few things to note if the lower spool valve is the one everyone warns not to let the cap off of that face the rear of the machine because it has bearing that are spring loaded that will fly out. While I was cafeful not to after cleaning the vavle up outside the machine I noticed the cap is on with a pretty stout keeper preventing it from coming off. So maybe others can weigh in how the cap comes off when it is held on with a keeper? You will also need to pick up a bunch of cans of brake parts cleaner and shop towels. I will follow up with a question on the valve that I have after this post. [/QUOTE]
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763 Shooting hydraulic oil out the control valve?
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