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630 Skid-By-Wire
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<blockquote data-quote="peebeeaitch" data-source="post: 81601" data-attributes="member: 8318"><p>Rightey.</p><p>Started on the pusher rods. The tube is 100mm long, threaded about 55mm long, the relief drilled for the remaining 45mm. The thread is 1/2"-20, which should give me pretty fine zeroing adjustment. The capscrew that goes through the spool hole is 6.35mm (1/4") from the end of the push. This is the end that attaches to the control block spool.</p><p><img src="http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/20141229_140934.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>The other end is a problem (where it attaches to the servo). To explain the logic a little, there is a slot in the pump front vertical cover panel through which the right pedal push rod passes. I didn't want to permanently modify the little machine so I designed this whole contraption to use this slot (all three rods). That required designing the servo box so that the rods would be as close as possible to the right side of the main chassis. This meant that the servo horns could only be a certain height, and I was sure I would be able to find steel horns to which I could weld some robust disk with a decent size attachment bolt. This, sadly, is not to be found. So, for the interim I decided to use what I could get.</p><p><img src="http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/20141229_112949.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>(The slot is visible on the right with the OEM push "bar" just sticking out). </p><p>I give this solution of mine a RR (Robustness Rating) equal to the chances of teenagers not having hormonal mood swings - very low. It's actually rather serious as I'm now thinking that I may have to totally redesign the servo box. Plus, the servo box fits in nicely in the gap between the pump vertical wall and the foot pedal. If I change the box I'm going to have to cut the foot pedals out (because the bolts are totally rusted in), or go for some complicated bell-crank system. This is becoming a bit of a bother.</p><p>Here's the servo end:</p><p><img src="http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/20141229_140941.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>And I've learnt that if I don't do this properly, the machine is going to fail in the middle of the driveway in the middle of a blizzard. In fact, I've just decided to try this box out and immediately design the replacement. Damn.</p><p>Anyway, here is the welding on the box:</p><p><img src="http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/20141229_120834.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p><img src="http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/20141229_120842.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>And some paint:</p><p><img src="http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/20141229_135222.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="peebeeaitch, post: 81601, member: 8318"] Rightey. Started on the pusher rods. The tube is 100mm long, threaded about 55mm long, the relief drilled for the remaining 45mm. The thread is 1/2“-20, which should give me pretty fine zeroing adjustment. The capscrew that goes through the spool hole is 6.35mm (1/4”) from the end of the push. This is the end that attaches to the control block spool. [IMG]http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/20141229_140934.jpg[/IMG] The other end is a problem (where it attaches to the servo). To explain the logic a little, there is a slot in the pump front vertical cover panel through which the right pedal push rod passes. I didn't want to permanently modify the little machine so I designed this whole contraption to use this slot (all three rods). That required designing the servo box so that the rods would be as close as possible to the right side of the main chassis. This meant that the servo horns could only be a certain height, and I was sure I would be able to find steel horns to which I could weld some robust disk with a decent size attachment bolt. This, sadly, is not to be found. So, for the interim I decided to use what I could get. [IMG]http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/20141229_112949.jpg[/IMG] (The slot is visible on the right with the OEM push “bar” just sticking out). I give this solution of mine a RR (Robustness Rating) equal to the chances of teenagers not having hormonal mood swings - very low. It's actually rather serious as I'm now thinking that I may have to totally redesign the servo box. Plus, the servo box fits in nicely in the gap between the pump vertical wall and the foot pedal. If I change the box I'm going to have to cut the foot pedals out (because the bolts are totally rusted in), or go for some complicated bell-crank system. This is becoming a bit of a bother. Here's the servo end: [IMG]http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/20141229_140941.jpg[/IMG] And I've learnt that if I don't do this properly, the machine is going to fail in the middle of the driveway in the middle of a blizzard. In fact, I've just decided to try this box out and immediately design the replacement. Damn. Anyway, here is the welding on the box: [IMG]http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/20141229_120834.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/20141229_120842.jpg[/IMG] And some paint: [IMG]http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/20141229_135222.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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