Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
New profile posts
Latest activity
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Bobcat Skidsteer Forums
General Bobcat Skidsteer Forum
630 - Repower
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Help Support SkidSteer Forum:
Message
<blockquote data-quote="peebeeaitch" data-source="post: 80829" data-attributes="member: 8318"><p>My apologies list, I was out of town for a number of weeks and forgot to post the update.</p><p><u>21 September 2014</u></p><p>Here is the motor pushed into the engine "bay".</p><p><img src="http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2014-09-21_01.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>The aligning of the u-joint with the pumps was a real pain. For some reason, the Wisconsin just slides right in and the u-joint sort of "auto-aligns" - at least the two times I've done it. This motor just would not slide in. I assume that I have a miniscule height difference between the motor and pump centerlines. Whatever the case, I needed to loosen the spider from the front part of the u, slide it on, move the motor in place, and then tighten the 4 Allen Caps to tie the front and back sections of the u together.</p><p><img src="http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2014-09-21_02.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>The motor I purchased did not come with any remote cables, so I bought two el-cheapos off eBay/Amazon. I also bought the Bobcat original cable holder clips (they're sitting under the two bolts on the top of the picture - something like $2.96 each). A note to our Imperial friends: this machine is truly made in Japan and is metric, hence all wrenches/spanners are metric and the holes and bolts mentioned above are M5.</p><p>Here is a video of the first run: <a href="http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/20140916_155424.mp4" target="_blank">http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/20140916_155424.mp4</a></p><p>One of the things I was really concerned about was the cowling at the back of the motor. My little machine came with a cowling that surrounded the Wisconsin and essentially blocked off all air above the flywheel/fan from being sucked into the fan.</p><p><img src="http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-02-23_01.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>In the picture above, the engine cowling on the Wisconsin is visible, along with the mating cowling on the engine door (see the black plate in the top right corner). This cowling arrangement forces the fan to draw air through the louvres in the engine door, over the oil cooler, through the fan, over the piston heads and then out through the grating on top of the engine bay - a U shaped air flow. I was not too worried about my motor heating up, rather that the air flow over the oil cooler would not be sufficient.</p><p><img src="http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2014-09-21_03.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>Above is the distance that the cooling fan on the B&S ended up from the oil cooler. I'm not going to redo the cowling yet, I'm going to monitor the oil temperature and see if there is something I need to do about it later. I may just make a cowling that attaches to the motor and half surrounds the oil cooler if there is a problem. Anyway, with the temperatures in Illinois at the moment I'm more worried about having to thaw the oil.</p><p>Ok, so here is the embarrassing photo:</p><p><img src="http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2014-09-21_04.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>Looks like the left/right height on my makeshift exhaust bracket got a little mis-measured, but I'm going to leave it as is. I can, at least, take solace in the fact that I did not have a helper and so the packers/spacers and various other tricks I needed to pull to even make the holder worked to a degree and the 10mm I am out left/right is ok with me (it's not great though).</p><p>So in the intervening two months I've run the machine 0.2 hours - I know this because of this little gem: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-Maintenance-Minder-5081K/dp/B0012W3V4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416920548&sr=8-1&keywords=briggs+and+stratton+engine+hour&pebp=1416920609838" target="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-Maintenance-Minder-5081K/dp/B0012W3V4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416920548&sr=8-1&keywords=briggs+and+stratton+engine+hour&pebp=1416920609838</a></p><p>There have been three issues:</p><p>1. The weight distribution is really screwy. The Wisconsin is around 150kg and the B&S around 50kg. 100kg at the fulcrum distance has probably lost me 150-200kg on counter balance. When I have a bit of time I'm going to do the calculations and put in a decent make-up counterweight.</p><p>2. The el-cheapo throttle cable came with an el-cheapo cable clamp for the operator side. This (expletive) clamp kept on bending open, allowing the cable to slide forward, and so eliminating the full throttle position of the cable. Eventually I took the Dremel, slotted the clamp and bent the piece closest to the handle a little flat. This flat engages the cable spiral, but allows the moving section of the cable to clear, and so this problem is now gone.</p><p>3. I can't remember exactly what the specs say, but I think the WOT speed of the B&S is about 300 rpm higher than the Wisconsin. I have not yet checked the pump max RPM but to protect the pumps I'm going to have to take my RPM-o-meter and adjust down the B&S max RPM to a safe level.</p><p>The exhaust blowing into the engine bay made the engine bay a little hot. I "made" an external exhaust bend and "bracket" - if anyone wants to see it I can take a photo or two.</p><p>Let me know.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="peebeeaitch, post: 80829, member: 8318"] My apologies list, I was out of town for a number of weeks and forgot to post the update. [U]21 September 2014[/U] Here is the motor pushed into the engine “bay”. [IMG]http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2014-09-21_01.jpg[/IMG] The aligning of the u-joint with the pumps was a real pain. For some reason, the Wisconsin just slides right in and the u-joint sort of “auto-aligns” - at least the two times I've done it. This motor just would not slide in. I assume that I have a miniscule height difference between the motor and pump centerlines. Whatever the case, I needed to loosen the spider from the front part of the u, slide it on, move the motor in place, and then tighten the 4 Allen Caps to tie the front and back sections of the u together. [IMG]http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2014-09-21_02.jpg[/IMG] The motor I purchased did not come with any remote cables, so I bought two el-cheapos off eBay/Amazon. I also bought the Bobcat original cable holder clips (they're sitting under the two bolts on the top of the picture - something like $2.96 each). A note to our Imperial friends: this machine is truly made in Japan and is metric, hence all wrenches/spanners are metric and the holes and bolts mentioned above are M5. Here is a video of the first run: [URL]http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/20140916_155424.mp4[/URL] One of the things I was really concerned about was the cowling at the back of the motor. My little machine came with a cowling that surrounded the Wisconsin and essentially blocked off all air above the flywheel/fan from being sucked into the fan. [IMG]http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-02-23_01.jpg[/IMG] In the picture above, the engine cowling on the Wisconsin is visible, along with the mating cowling on the engine door (see the black plate in the top right corner). This cowling arrangement forces the fan to draw air through the louvres in the engine door, over the oil cooler, through the fan, over the piston heads and then out through the grating on top of the engine bay - a U shaped air flow. I was not too worried about my motor heating up, rather that the air flow over the oil cooler would not be sufficient. [IMG]http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2014-09-21_03.jpg[/IMG] Above is the distance that the cooling fan on the B&S ended up from the oil cooler. I'm not going to redo the cowling yet, I'm going to monitor the oil temperature and see if there is something I need to do about it later. I may just make a cowling that attaches to the motor and half surrounds the oil cooler if there is a problem. Anyway, with the temperatures in Illinois at the moment I'm more worried about having to thaw the oil. Ok, so here is the embarrassing photo: [IMG]http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2014-09-21_04.jpg[/IMG] Looks like the left/right height on my makeshift exhaust bracket got a little mis-measured, but I'm going to leave it as is. I can, at least, take solace in the fact that I did not have a helper and so the packers/spacers and various other tricks I needed to pull to even make the holder worked to a degree and the 10mm I am out left/right is ok with me (it's not great though). So in the intervening two months I've run the machine 0.2 hours - I know this because of this little gem: [URL]http://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-Maintenance-Minder-5081K/dp/B0012W3V4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416920548&sr=8-1&keywords=briggs+and+stratton+engine+hour&pebp=1416920609838[/URL] There have been three issues: 1. The weight distribution is really screwy. The Wisconsin is around 150kg and the B&S around 50kg. 100kg at the fulcrum distance has probably lost me 150-200kg on counter balance. When I have a bit of time I'm going to do the calculations and put in a decent make-up counterweight. 2. The el-cheapo throttle cable came with an el-cheapo cable clamp for the operator side. This (expletive) clamp kept on bending open, allowing the cable to slide forward, and so eliminating the full throttle position of the cable. Eventually I took the Dremel, slotted the clamp and bent the piece closest to the handle a little flat. This flat engages the cable spiral, but allows the moving section of the cable to clear, and so this problem is now gone. 3. I can't remember exactly what the specs say, but I think the WOT speed of the B&S is about 300 rpm higher than the Wisconsin. I have not yet checked the pump max RPM but to protect the pumps I'm going to have to take my RPM-o-meter and adjust down the B&S max RPM to a safe level. The exhaust blowing into the engine bay made the engine bay a little hot. I “made“ an external exhaust bend and “bracket“ - if anyone wants to see it I can take a photo or two. Let me know. [/QUOTE]
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Bobcat Skidsteer Forums
General Bobcat Skidsteer Forum
630 - Repower
Top