Recent content by jsenicka

pull everything out. Clean it all well. Shoot WD40 in tie cord pocket and reinstall the cord. Install the seal with cord back in frame with the seal flaps open. WD 40 the window slot and the seal flaps. Work the window into the window slot carefully. You should be able to then zip the seal flaps...

any chance you have a cab door interlock wire issue? That would also lock out lift/tilt

i have rebuilt 5 742/743 valves. The spools have a front and a rear seal only. Nothing else. You wind up with a bunch of spares with the generic kits. But that is also easiest way to get stuff like main pressure relief valve seals. Betting you have a wonk in the tilt tube making the piston run...

I have an S175 I rebuilt recently. New seals in lift and tilt cylinders. The lift leaks down quickly. But only in certain elevations. For example, at about 6” up in holds fine. Maybe 2’ up it holds. But in other places it drops. My thinking is corrosion inside the lift tubes versus a control...

The connectors are #6 JIC. The upper pins come out from the outside. They have a internal thread for you to run in a bolt and pull them with a slide hammer. You should then be able to move the cylinder back a bit and pull from the top.

the electrical connections have zero to do with the threads. If the switch is blowing out you likely have a bad thread in the back of that funky tee on top of the pump. That line is charge pressure and well lower pressure than drive pressure, so you have a mechanical problem with the threads

spool seals on that spool.

straight blue needs to tie to switched power with the orange. That connects to the optional shutdown system. I believe the prints show this as 26 and 26A. Blue/Black is glow

Thanks Tazza. It is less noticeable on dirt than concrete, but still an issue. I need to do a bit more messing with the linkage and centering bar, and then look to swap drive motors

pretty simple. Red/White - 12vdc Blue/Black - glow White = starter Orange and blue wires = switched power

Hey all. I have a 4000-ish hour 742 that sat abandoned for 25 years before I bought and re-powered with a v2203DI. Wonderful machine except for one issue. Slow pivots with just a little bit of forward left and no right or just a tiny bit back right is super jerky. But only when I am stopped or...

Looking for a parts manual for a Robot 190 (2002 model). Online or printed. Happy to purchase

not a lot of hours so far. But not seeing how hydraulic oil would be hard on a hydraulic system. i see it as equivalent to motor oil, with anti foam and anti corrosion?

Unless it has an NPT adapter, it is Kubota, which uses BSP. British standard stuff. Same as oil pressure and temp senders. (Different size but still weird thread)

Mine are very happy on AW46.