T190 Hub oil

I remove my tracks to repair a busted line on the track motor. While I had them off I went ahead and changed the hub oil flipped the tracks and the sprockets. My question is when I removed plug from the left hub no oil ran out. The right side had some in it. I would guess it was about 1 ounce. The Machine has 1100 hours on it and has never had this changed. With none being in left side does it indicate a problem or does it just get kinda burned up in 1100 hours. Im wondering if a seal could be bad or just what? With just 2 ounces in hubs it would be hard to see it running out. Anybody had experience with this?

I belive that is to be done every 500 hours better keep a eye on it or major damage will be done

antfarmer2 said:

I belive that is to be done every 500 hours better keep a eye on it or major damage will be done

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as to why its dry its unkown. as have we run across? this its quite common. recommend change every 500 as stated and while youre there swap drive sprockets left to right. tips on getting new oil in.. heat in microwave. or inject with syringene or best method I have found is old A,C dye cartiridge. with a caulk gun has graduation marks, and shoots right in.

7LBSSMALLIE said:

as to why its dry its unkown. as have we run across? this its quite common. recommend change every 500 as stated and while youre there swap drive sprockets left to right. tips on getting new oil in.. heat in microwave. or inject with syringene or best method I have found is old A,C dye cartiridge. with a caulk gun has graduation marks, and shoots right in.

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Yea I swapped the sprockets left to right and got the oil in. They took a pretty good squirt then it was slow go but I got the 2 ounces in. Didn't even think about heating or the syringe but maybe that'll help someone else. Thanks for the response.

ffpup said:

Yea I swapped the sprockets left to right and got the oil in. They took a pretty good squirt then it was slow go but I got the 2 ounces in. Didn't even think about heating or the syringe but maybe that'll help someone else. Thanks for the response.

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If it were my machine, I would drain the hub oil fairly soon and look for iridescence -- like very fine metal flake paint. If so, and you catch it in time, you can replace the out bearing without losing the entire motor. The bearing is not cheap, but that job is cheaper than having the motor rebuilt, not to mention that when the drive motor gives out, it's going to send metal throughout your system.

lesgawlik said:

If it were my machine, I would drain the hub oil fairly soon and look for iridescence -- like very fine metal flake paint. If so, and you catch it in time, you can replace the out bearing without losing the entire motor. The bearing is not cheap, but that job is cheaper than having the motor rebuilt, not to mention that when the drive motor gives out, it's going to send metal throughout your system.

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decent thinkin. especialy now that oil is 17 bucks a bottle, not a hundred. yea its a pain . but motors being 3500. , an oil change, may flush contaminets. give an indicaction of degradation. kinda like takin an oil sample. ( ilike it) . and yes a complet failure will trash entire hyd sys. that oil goes straight to stat. ( DO NOT FORGET CASE DRAIN FILTERS) another visable cue to extent of failure. as to the replacement of outer hub brgs and rebuild of motor. truth be told its not cost effective. by the time you buy the the two seal kits and brgs add in labor. you can plug and play a new motor.

7LBSSMALLIE said:

decent thinkin. especialy now that oil is 17 bucks a bottle, not a hundred. yea its a pain . but motors being 3500. , an oil change, may flush contaminets. give an indicaction of degradation. kinda like takin an oil sample. ( ilike it) . and yes a complet failure will trash entire hyd sys. that oil goes straight to stat. ( DO NOT FORGET CASE DRAIN FILTERS) another visable cue to extent of failure. as to the replacement of outer hub brgs and rebuild of motor. truth be told its not cost effective. by the time you buy the the two seal kits and brgs add in labor. you can plug and play a new motor.

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On a side note ... what are you guys thoughts on rebuilt drive motors like the ones from finaldrivesparts.com they have a bunch of useful youtube videos about maintenance as well .

calypso428 said:

On a side note ... what are you guys thoughts on rebuilt drive motors like the ones from finaldrivesparts.com they have a bunch of useful youtube videos about maintenance as well .

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I saw those videos and posted links to that company some time ago in regards to another post. I thought I might be facing replacement of my drive motors, and I researched the options. They have a deal where you pay for one motor, and they rebuild the other for a very reasonable price. Their thinking is that if one failed, the other one is probably not too far behind. Makes sense to me. They have a neat way of shipping in a 5 gal plastic bucket. I learned a lot from the videos, and when I called, they seemed like pretty decent people. It turns out I didn't need the motor rebuilt, so I don't have a true report on them.

7LBSSMALLIE said:

decent thinkin. especialy now that oil is 17 bucks a bottle, not a hundred. yea its a pain . but motors being 3500. , an oil change, may flush contaminets. give an indicaction of degradation. kinda like takin an oil sample. ( ilike it) . and yes a complet failure will trash entire hyd sys. that oil goes straight to stat. ( DO NOT FORGET CASE DRAIN FILTERS) another visable cue to extent of failure. as to the replacement of outer hub brgs and rebuild of motor. truth be told its not cost effective. by the time you buy the the two seal kits and brgs add in labor. you can plug and play a new motor.

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Two questions about your post 7LBSSMALLIE ….. Case drain filter? Location Location Location ( the one under cab?) If so to late to check it I burnt it out in stove. (makes good heat on cold day) and You indicated it wasn't cost effective what about if you are doing the labor yourself? I haven't checked on the cost of bearing and/or seal.

ffpup said:

Two questions about your post 7LBSSMALLIE ….. Case drain filter? Location Location Location ( the one under cab?) If so to late to check it I burnt it out in stove. (makes good heat on cold day) and You indicated it wasn't cost effective what about if you are doing the labor yourself? I haven't checked on the cost of bearing and/or seal.

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I think you will find them on the line comming from the drive motors a silver cylinders

antfarmer2 said:

I think you will find them on the line comming from the drive motors a silver cylinders

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case drain silver canister.( picks up trash. prior to return tank) little bronze filter inside looks like a fish tank aerator stone. cant stress enough the importance of of this if neglected. it will blow the back cover off motor if its clogged. . hopefully it blows out and thru all that metal hits entire hyd hydro sys. and at that point roll over and play dead you wont ever get it all out. 5miles of rubber hoses and three of steel tubes.

7LBSSMALLIE said:

case drain silver canister.( picks up trash. prior to return tank) little bronze filter inside looks like a fish tank aerator stone. cant stress enough the importance of of this if neglected. it will blow the back cover off motor if its clogged. . hopefully it blows out and thru all that metal hits entire hyd hydro sys. and at that point roll over and play dead you wont ever get it all out. 5miles of rubber hoses and three of steel tubes.

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sorry ? not clearly written. if case drain filter is not done will blow out back cover off motor. if cover does not blow . it will blow out filter trashing entire sys. as to rebuilt motors no idea. I do know that price of seal kits and brgs exceed price of new. or real close. now that being said . used drive motors even trashed are being bought up what they are doing with them I don't know. I can say bobcat has ben very interested in cores as of late. as in cyls and pumps . no official line out as to what they doing with them. looking up parts, REM # comes up. but if you go to order its N/A

7LBSSMALLIE said:

sorry ? not clearly written. if case drain filter is not done will blow out back cover off motor. if cover does not blow . it will blow out filter trashing entire sys. as to rebuilt motors no idea. I do know that price of seal kits and brgs exceed price of new. or real close. now that being said . used drive motors even trashed are being bought up what they are doing with them I don't know. I can say bobcat has ben very interested in cores as of late. as in cyls and pumps . no official line out as to what they doing with them. looking up parts, REM # comes up. but if you go to order its N/A

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Sounds like they are fixing them and selling as new

antfarmer2 said:

Sounds like they are fixing them and selling as new

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Called the dealer today and found out the case drain filters cartridges are 18.00. He put my name on two and Ill be changing them. Any other maintenance I need to do thats not normal filter changes that y'all can think of?

ffpup said:

Called the dealer today and found out the case drain filters cartridges are 18.00. He put my name on two and Ill be changing them. Any other maintenance I need to do thats not normal filter changes that y'all can think of?

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Clean and save the old ones

antfarmer2 said:

Clean and save the old ones

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Will do thanks. Air hose I guess?

ffpup said:

Will do thanks. Air hose I guess?

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if you got heat and air or both . pull cover off heater core and evap and clean out. air than water, inspect track adjust cyls for grease leak at rod. clean birds nest off turbo. pull and inspect batt top water clean terms. put anti corrosion stuff on same. inspect belts. give idlers and rollers a good look and shake. spring aint no time for down time.

7LBSSMALLIE said:

if you got heat and air or both . pull cover off heater core and evap and clean out. air than water, inspect track adjust cyls for grease leak at rod. clean birds nest off turbo. pull and inspect batt top water clean terms. put anti corrosion stuff on same. inspect belts. give idlers and rollers a good look and shake. spring aint no time for down time.

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Have the hub seals replaced with in the drive motor. That is where the leak and that is why it was low on oil.

Bobcatdan said:

Have the hub seals replaced with in the drive motor. That is where the leak and that is why it was low on oil.

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I replaced one filter today and I am gonna do the other saturday. I gotta pull track to do it. I talked to dealer today he indicated they had not had good luck with replacing seals. He may have thought I meant motor seals. Are these seals one in the same or are there two sets in each side? I haven't got that far yet but am going to saturday.