The tilt and the lift both settle on my 2010 bobcat s205. I was wondering how I could tell wich cylinders r leaking so I could put new seals in them. There are no external leaks so it must be leaking by in one of the cylinders on both the tilt and lift.
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once you're into it might as well do all 4 cylinders, seals are cheap.
Yea they are but it don't have a lot of hours on it and I'd rather just fix the bad ones but I see what ur saying.once you're into it might as well do all 4 cylinders, seals are cheap.
How long does it take for them to fall down?Yea they are but it don't have a lot of hours on it and I'd rather just fix the bad ones but I see what ur saying.
They will settle all the way down from highest point in about 15-16 hrs. Seems to be worse with weight on it.How long does it take for them to fall down?
Tilt don't settle just the lift does.They will settle all the way down from highest point in about 15-16 hrs. Seems to be worse with weight on it.
antfarmer2
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I would leave it alone untill it got worseTilt don't settle just the lift does.
It a pain in the ass when ur trying to hold something in position and the loader keeps settling. The other day I was putting up some chutes and had to hold a couple hundred pound gate in position to get the bolts started and it would settle a lot faster with the weight on it.I would leave it alone untill it got worse
antfarmer2
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Ok that is a lot faster than 15 hours time to rebuild both cylindersIt a pain in the ass when ur trying to hold something in position and the loader keeps settling. The other day I was putting up some chutes and had to hold a couple hundred pound gate in position to get the bolts started and it would settle a lot faster with the weight on it.
Re-seal the lift cylinders.Ok that is a lot faster than 15 hours time to rebuild both cylinders
For it to leak down that fast, it could be that a nut has come loose inside a cylinder allowing fluid to by-pass th episton.
Either way, get them out and apart and do the seals, they really aren't expensive and not that hard to do. The worst part is getting the cylinder out/lines off. Being a vertical lift machine, it may be a little worse gaining access but still shouldn't be too horrible.
Thanks for all the help. I ordered new seal kits for both cylinders and will let you know how it works when I get them put in. Thanks again.Re-seal the lift cylinders.
For it to leak down that fast, it could be that a nut has come loose inside a cylinder allowing fluid to by-pass th episton.
Either way, get them out and apart and do the seals, they really aren't expensive and not that hard to do. The worst part is getting the cylinder out/lines off. Being a vertical lift machine, it may be a little worse gaining access but still shouldn't be too horrible.
Just wondering if you got the cylinders resealed? I was thinking along the lines of it possibly being your bypass (red square to the right of your seat) leaking rather than a a seal. I was told by a tech to check which cylinder is leaking you could extend the cylinders and just keep pushing the pedal and have someone feel the cylinder tubes. The one that gets warmer or hot is the leaking cylinder. He said it wouldn't take long to figure out which one leaks that way. I hope you get it fixed.Thanks for all the help. I ordered new seal kits for both cylinders and will let you know how it works when I get them put in. Thanks again.
BTW, if you've never done cylinder seals, you'll want a piston ring compressor to squeeze the orange color seal back onto the gland after you stretch it to get it on. When I do them I just pull on that orange seal with my hands gently stretching it until it fits over the gland, then I put my ring compressor on it to get it to shrink back down. The shaft seal inside the cap can be a little difficult. I bought the tool to install it but you don't need it if you're patient (I am not). For the nut on the bottom of the rod, I'd use a propane torch to heat it. They use loctite on them and they are a bear to get off without heat.Just wondering if you got the cylinders resealed? I was thinking along the lines of it possibly being your bypass (red square to the right of your seat) leaking rather than a a seal. I was told by a tech to check which cylinder is leaking you could extend the cylinders and just keep pushing the pedal and have someone feel the cylinder tubes. The one that gets warmer or hot is the leaking cylinder. He said it wouldn't take long to figure out which one leaks that way. I hope you get it fixed.
I'm still waiting for parts but I'm the meantime I think I will try to see wich cylinder is leaking like u said. Thanks for the help and the info.BTW, if you've never done cylinder seals, you'll want a piston ring compressor to squeeze the orange color seal back onto the gland after you stretch it to get it on. When I do them I just pull on that orange seal with my hands gently stretching it until it fits over the gland, then I put my ring compressor on it to get it to shrink back down. The shaft seal inside the cap can be a little difficult. I bought the tool to install it but you don't need it if you're patient (I am not). For the nut on the bottom of the rod, I'd use a propane torch to heat it. They use loctite on them and they are a bear to get off without heat.
If you don't have a piston ring compressor, a large hose clamp and cardboard/thick paper around the seal works too.I'm still waiting for parts but I'm the meantime I think I will try to see wich cylinder is leaking like u said. Thanks for the help and the info.
Also remember to oil up the orings/seals before re-installing them too.
I have a piston ring compressor and I should have the parts tomorrow. I also ordered the bottom pins with the grease zerks in the ends so I don't have to reach up I'm that hole anymore.If you don't have a piston ring compressor, a large hose clamp and cardboard/thick paper around the seal works too.
Also remember to oil up the orings/seals before re-installing them too.
Got everything put in and together, not a bad job at all. The new pins with the grease zerks in the ends work really well. I left the loader all the way in the air tonight we will see if it settles much in the morning I hope it don't. Thanks to everyone who replied for all the help. Lots of good tips thank you.I have a piston ring compressor and I should have the parts tomorrow. I also ordered the bottom pins with the grease zerks in the ends so I don't have to reach up I'm that hole anymore.
Glad you had no issues, it's not as hard as some people think.Got everything put in and together, not a bad job at all. The new pins with the grease zerks in the ends work really well. I left the loader all the way in the air tonight we will see if it settles much in the morning I hope it don't. Thanks to everyone who replied for all the help. Lots of good tips thank you.
Expect it to move some, hopefully not too much though.
It dropped about a half inch in a little over 24hrs so I guess I cured the problem. ThanksGlad you had no issues, it's not as hard as some people think.
Expect it to move some, hopefully not too much though.