Low Charge Pressure code

My 2005 T250 has approximately 3400 hours on it. I purchased the machine with 2900 hrs on it. The machine sets the low charge pressure after idling for a few minutes after working the machine with everything hot. The hydraulics seem to bog the machine when doing multiple tasks, traveling and curling the bucket etc... Closing or opening the grapple bucket or running anything on the aux hydraulics really bogs the machine. I have changed all filters and fluids and no changes. I also went with all Bobcat brand fluids and filters. I changed the case drain filter in the center of the machine but I cant seem to locate the filter that they claim to be on the left side of the machine, I have traced all the lines down to the best of my ability and can't seem to find it. I didn't find any abnormal shavings anywhere. Where do I need to start in getting the charge pressure back up? I did post a while back about the seemingly low power issue but I have just learned to live with it. I have the machine leased out to a friend on a construction site and it gets used pretty much every day and the project is coming to an end, so I would like to take some of the rental funds and put back into the machine. I haven't been on in a while, any help would be greatly appreciated

If just weak hydro and not boging the engine cheack your drive belt

antfarmer2 said:

If just weak hydro and not boging the engine cheack your drive belt

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It does bog the motor pretty hard, I have always had to back off on the travel to let the motor catch up while pushing dirt or traveling up a slight incline, I was just doing some research and found that overall performance is poor with a low charge pressure, The rest of the hydraulics are strong and don't seem to be out of the ordinary compared to other machines I have been on like mine. The bucket tilt has always seemed slower than other machines but the lift is quick.

Ironmule said:

It does bog the motor pretty hard, I have always had to back off on the travel to let the motor catch up while pushing dirt or traveling up a slight incline, I was just doing some research and found that overall performance is poor with a low charge pressure, The rest of the hydraulics are strong and don't seem to be out of the ordinary compared to other machines I have been on like mine. The bucket tilt has always seemed slower than other machines but the lift is quick.

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What filters have you replaced and do you have the numbers?

antfarmer2 said:

What filters have you replaced and do you have the numbers?

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Standard flow filter #6661248.......high flow filter #6668819.........case drain filter #6661022 I belive there are two of them have you changed all?

antfarmer2 said:

Standard flow filter #6661248.......high flow filter #6668819.........case drain filter #6661022 I belive there are two of them have you changed all?

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I am thinking case drain filters

antfarmer2 said:

I am thinking case drain filters

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One case drain is brand new, I cant find the other which was supposed to be on the left side of the machine, not sure which filter I have yet but will know this weekend as I am out of town. There was no change in performance when I changed the filters about 250 hrs ago. I am going to change them again when I get home. This machine has had this problem since I purchased it which was a rental unit in its previous life, this may be why it went up on the auction block... I just hope its not a major problem but with my luck it probably is more to it than a filter. Me and Murphy's law are pretty acquainted.

Ironmule said:

One case drain is brand new, I cant find the other which was supposed to be on the left side of the machine, not sure which filter I have yet but will know this weekend as I am out of town. There was no change in performance when I changed the filters about 250 hrs ago. I am going to change them again when I get home. This machine has had this problem since I purchased it which was a rental unit in its previous life, this may be why it went up on the auction block... I just hope its not a major problem but with my luck it probably is more to it than a filter. Me and Murphy's law are pretty acquainted.

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The case drain filter should be on a hose comming from the drive motor a silver cylinder about four inches long buy about a inch and a half acrossed ........,you found and changed one?

antfarmer2 said:

The case drain filter should be on a hose comming from the drive motor a silver cylinder about four inches long buy about a inch and a half acrossed ........,you found and changed one?

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Yes, I found and replaced one but I can't locate the second one that should be behind the left lift cylinder somewhere, I have removed the access panel and searched the world over with no luck.

Ironmule said:

Yes, I found and replaced one but I can't locate the second one that should be behind the left lift cylinder somewhere, I have removed the access panel and searched the world over with no luck.

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The other one is hiding by the drive belt system might have to cut some zip ties to get to it

antfarmer2 said:

The other one is hiding by the drive belt system might have to cut some zip ties to get to it

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Any brass found in it?

antfarmer2 said:

Any brass found in it?

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No shavings at all, it was clean.

Ironmule said:

No shavings at all, it was clean.

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Case drain filters have nothing to do with this. Even if they were filled with metal, changing them wouldn't do anything, the drive motor is already failed. Case drains do not filter any other part of the system. Large frames like T250 has only one case drain for drive. There is a second for auxiliary hydraulics back by the drive belt, but I bet it has never filtered any oil, the circuit is next to never used. As for your problem, if the hydraulic functions are still strong, it could be simply a sender or an issuse with the 8 volt sensor circuit. Also I'm pretty sure charge pressure is adjustable so if it just a hair low, it should be able to be brought up to spec. Honestly, have a dealer look at it because it can be one of several things.

Bobcatdan said:

Case drain filters have nothing to do with this. Even if they were filled with metal, changing them wouldn't do anything, the drive motor is already failed. Case drains do not filter any other part of the system. Large frames like T250 has only one case drain for drive. There is a second for auxiliary hydraulics back by the drive belt, but I bet it has never filtered any oil, the circuit is next to never used. As for your problem, if the hydraulic functions are still strong, it could be simply a sender or an issuse with the 8 volt sensor circuit. Also I'm pretty sure charge pressure is adjustable so if it just a hair low, it should be able to be brought up to spec. Honestly, have a dealer look at it because it can be one of several things.

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Ok thanks for your input. The Hydraulics are strong on the aux circuit but it seems to lug the motor more than it should compared to other machines I have operated, as I have operated several different T250s and T300s. The lift and tilt dont seem to lug the motor at all but the aux hydraulics really take a toll on the engine.

Ironmule said:

Ok thanks for your input. The Hydraulics are strong on the aux circuit but it seems to lug the motor more than it should compared to other machines I have operated, as I have operated several different T250s and T300s. The lift and tilt dont seem to lug the motor at all but the aux hydraulics really take a toll on the engine.

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From what Dan and you have said I would get after that case drain filter by the drive belt

antfarmer2 said:

From what Dan and you have said I would get after that case drain filter by the drive belt

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The case drain filter by the drive belt does nothing on 98% of machines. It is for the third coupler on the auxiliary block for certain attachments that use a case drain. If you never use anything like a concrete planer, there is never oil going threw it.

Bobcatdan said:

The case drain filter by the drive belt does nothing on 98% of machines. It is for the third coupler on the auxiliary block for certain attachments that use a case drain. If you never use anything like a concrete planer, there is never oil going threw it.

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Ok learned somthing new thanks Dan

antfarmer2 said:

Ok learned somthing new thanks Dan

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what im not seeing here. is has charge preeseuere been checked with a mechanil guage? this will verify as to whether actual or indicated. it is not uncommon for a sender to fail. this is and always will be the first step in any diagnogists. as in CONFIRM ACTUAL OR INDICATED> 9 out of ten is a bad sender. truth be told its quicker and cheaper. to just replace sender. rather than removing sender install guage, and verify pressure. also of note is ceartin software upgades were installed. to prevent false codes. as in low idle cold oil etc. as well as charge relief can be kicked up by installing shims. this does not correct the internal leakage but will increase charge pressure.

7LBSSMALLIE said:

what im not seeing here. is has charge preeseuere been checked with a mechanil guage? this will verify as to whether actual or indicated. it is not uncommon for a sender to fail. this is and always will be the first step in any diagnogists. as in CONFIRM ACTUAL OR INDICATED> 9 out of ten is a bad sender. truth be told its quicker and cheaper. to just replace sender. rather than removing sender install guage, and verify pressure. also of note is ceartin software upgades were installed. to prevent false codes. as in low idle cold oil etc. as well as charge relief can be kicked up by installing shims. this does not correct the internal leakage but will increase charge pressure.

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Actually what I was thinking when recommening having a dealer look at it. That way the pressure the controller is seeing compared to actual. There are several variables here that can make a possible easy repair a real pain in the butt. If it is sensor circuit problem, you could have something like a bad temp sensor confusing the controller and throwing a red herring code.