853 Drive Belt Tensioner question

I threw the belt on my 853 which actually had become 3 belts. I purchased a new belt from Bobcat and then set about repairing it. As part of this process I removed the fixed tensioner to inspect it, what I found were bearings that had gone bad, so I called Bobcat. Turns out they didn't have bearings for it and stated that they didn't have anything for the fixed tensioner any longer, rather that it was supposed to replaced by the spring loaded one which was $400. After inspecting the fixed version I discovered that it had simple timkin bears so I picked some new ones up at my local auto parts store. At this point, thing went somewhat south; I packed the bearings with grease (yes I know they were supposed to have oil). That said I also discovered that when I bolted the pulley down it would lock up. I discovered that the rear bearing was bearing on the shaft shoulder which leads me to believe that either something was worn out or I had the wrong bearings (it looked cobbled when I removed it). Subsequently I relented and paid the $400. At this point it gets interesting and the point of this post, the new tensioner does not have a threaded hole in the top for a threaded rod which I believe is what is used to set the tension (as per the service manual). There is a metal boss cast into the bracket which can be drilled and taped but I am wondering why there isn't one there. I am wondering if anyone here can shed any light into this issue. The tensioner cannot be "tensioned" without the rod as there isn't enough room to work and leverage it up and tighten the bolt. Plus I cannot see how 1 3/8 bolt is enough support for it even if there was. Any help or insight is greatly appreciated.

The updated tensionor is the same as what is used on most machines newer then yours. The old set up was a pain in the ass. Install the new tensioner with the bolt just snug. Take a 3' prybar and pry until the pointer is at three o'clock. Once set, tighten bolt. Test run and recheck. There is plenty of room to get a bar in there, I have seen me do it.

Bobcatdan said:

The updated tensionor is the same as what is used on most machines newer then yours. The old set up was a pain in the ass. Install the new tensioner with the bolt just snug. Take a 3' prybar and pry until the pointer is at three o'clock. Once set, tighten bolt. Test run and recheck. There is plenty of room to get a bar in there, I have seen me do it.

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Thanks, I just called Bobcat and they basically said the same thing. Not that I am questioning anyone but it seems somewhat difficult to pry the adler/tensioner up and tighten the bolt at the same time. Also, what keeps the adler from moving side to side (perhaps there is a channel there, but I am not sure). I am also wondering how to get the old fixed idler out and whether or not I have to pull the belt to do it. I really think that having the threaded rod on the top is a more secure method but I don't want to reinvent the wheel here).

70chall440 said:

Thanks, I just called Bobcat and they basically said the same thing. Not that I am questioning anyone but it seems somewhat difficult to pry the adler/tensioner up and tighten the bolt at the same time. Also, what keeps the adler from moving side to side (perhaps there is a channel there, but I am not sure). I am also wondering how to get the old fixed idler out and whether or not I have to pull the belt to do it. I really think that having the threaded rod on the top is a more secure method but I don't want to reinvent the wheel here).

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I would post a picture of what I am talking about but am not sure how to post them in here.

70chall440 said:

I would post a picture of what I am talking about but am not sure how to post them in here.

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Post to photo bucket then link the image to here

antfarmer2 said:

Post to photo bucket then link the image to here

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thanks, I will look into. In the meantime, Id offer that the diagram on page 3-12 depicts the threaded rod in question. It is also for the spring loaded tensioner which furthers my confusion.

70chall440 said:

thanks, I will look into. In the meantime, Id offer that the diagram on page 3-12 depicts the threaded rod in question. It is also for the spring loaded tensioner which furthers my confusion.

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I got it fixed, despite the advice, I did install a top threaded rod by drilling and tapping the boss that was on the new idler. While I can understand how to do it using the 3' bar, this (for me) was a lot easier. The top threaded rod allowed me to pull up on the idler until the bottom hole was accessible, then it allowed me to set the tension before tightening the bottom bolt. This seemed far easier than trying to hold the 4lb idler in place while attempting to start the bottom bolt, then trying to pry it up to set the tension and reach in there to tighten the bolt. The nut on the top rod was far easier to access and definitely for me less hassle. I appreciate the advice given, I am sure I will be back. I am now servicing the machine since I have it in the shop (air filter, oil change and filter, etc.). I am sure it will be a happier machine after this. thanks again.