753 high pitch whine when turning/case drain filters

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lonfu

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2001 753 G series bobcat skidsteer kubota 40 hp. So at first I thought it was my main drive belt because of the sound, but I checked the tensioner and the belt is in good shape. Engine starts and runs perfectly, arms and bucket operate perfectly and have normal sounds. When I first start out I get a high pitch whine, sounds like a fluid shear sound. It also reminds me of roller clutches not getting enough power or a slipping fan belt. After I'm underway it goes away until I turn, then it returns. Both sides seem to run at the same speed, when turning to the left it is slightly louder. Could it be the case drain filters? My 753 has 2. Do they sound like this when they get plugged? It is not a chain sound but a high pitch fluid whine sound. I haven't changed these filters yet as they have about 472 hours on them and are $50 each. Any one on this forum have experience with these filters or sounds when they become plugged? thanks
 

Bobcatdan

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I'd look at that drive belt again. There is a difference between looks tight and tight.
The case drains wouldn't case any problems. If they ever did plug up, you would have other problems causing it like a drive motor self distrucking. Service intrival for the case drains is 1,000 hrs.
 

reaperman

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If you are ever bored and want to check the case drains, you can simply remove the bronze filter and clean them out without replacing them.
 
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lonfu

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ok, I ordered a new one and will clean off the pulleys and see if it will do the trick.
 
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lonfu

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ok, I ordered a new one and will clean off the pulleys and see if it will do the trick.
It looks like the case drain filters do not have replaceable insides. the are about 1 1//4 inch in diameter, not like the ones I saw on utube that look larger, closer to 2 inches. Mine are like the $46 ones listed on allskidsteer.com. I could try to pull them apart but looks like the are welded.
 
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lonfu

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It looks like the case drain filters do not have replaceable insides. the are about 1 1//4 inch in diameter, not like the ones I saw on utube that look larger, closer to 2 inches. Mine are like the $46 ones listed on allskidsteer.com. I could try to pull them apart but looks like the are welded.
did I say thanks for the feed back and ideas.
 

Bobcatdan

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It looks like the case drain filters do not have replaceable insides. the are about 1 1//4 inch in diameter, not like the ones I saw on utube that look larger, closer to 2 inches. Mine are like the $46 ones listed on allskidsteer.com. I could try to pull them apart but looks like the are welded.
The case drain is an aluminum canister about 4" long and an 1" or so across. The top unscrews and there is a bronze element inside. Only style used for years.
 
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lonfu

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Take a good look at the spring and pivot point for crud and wear
I'll take a close look at the tensioner when the new one belt comes. the hyd fluid looks real clean, and it is real dry out here so I don't think they would be a problem. But thanks for the info about them. I'll check them when I get to 1000 hours. Like I said the main drive belt has some grease on it, that may be the problem. I'll clean the pulley's carefuly before I install the new one and inspect the tensioner.
 

antfarmer2

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I'll take a close look at the tensioner when the new one belt comes. the hyd fluid looks real clean, and it is real dry out here so I don't think they would be a problem. But thanks for the info about them. I'll check them when I get to 1000 hours. Like I said the main drive belt has some grease on it, that may be the problem. I'll clean the pulley's carefuly before I install the new one and inspect the tensioner.
Since you have a new belt coming spray some carb cleaner on it and see if it helps
 
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lonfu

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Since you have a new belt coming spray some carb cleaner on it and see if it helps
I've cleaned it the best I could with carb cleaner but it didn't make any difference. But....I've tried that before and some times a belt gets a "shear" set on them from chemicals and won't quiet down unless replaced. Since this one is 13 years old I figure it won't hurt to replace it and check the tensioner anyways. Funny, through the belt feels tight to the touch. Is there any way to clean the case drain filters with out replacing all the fluid? I have a couple of temp crimps that I use on fuel lines on gas engines.
 

Bobcatdan

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I've cleaned it the best I could with carb cleaner but it didn't make any difference. But....I've tried that before and some times a belt gets a "shear" set on them from chemicals and won't quiet down unless replaced. Since this one is 13 years old I figure it won't hurt to replace it and check the tensioner anyways. Funny, through the belt feels tight to the touch. Is there any way to clean the case drain filters with out replacing all the fluid? I have a couple of temp crimps that I use on fuel lines on gas engines.
If you only have 500 hours on the machine I wouldn't even worry about changing them. A trick I use to prevent oil loss when changing them is I use a vacuum powered by shop air. I stick in the filler and seal it up the best I can. I then fiddle with an inline regulator to get the correct amount of hold. Have tried to adjust the drive belt tighter?
 
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lonfu

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If you only have 500 hours on the machine I wouldn't even worry about changing them. A trick I use to prevent oil loss when changing them is I use a vacuum powered by shop air. I stick in the filler and seal it up the best I can. I then fiddle with an inline regulator to get the correct amount of hold. Have tried to adjust the drive belt tighter?
Thanks for the vaccum tip, hadn't thought of that. I haven't messed with the tensioner yet, figure if I'm going to replace the belt I'll do it then. Good news is the bearing seems tight, ouch, those things are pricey! The pointer is sitting at about 2:15 o'clock so I figure it has to be an "oil shear" on the belt, but! I've had automotive tensioners fall off in parts into my hands when I pulled off the belt. Guess only the great bobcat god in the sky can know the true answer, until I replace it. thanks...
 

Bobcatdan

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Thanks for the vaccum tip, hadn't thought of that. I haven't messed with the tensioner yet, figure if I'm going to replace the belt I'll do it then. Good news is the bearing seems tight, ouch, those things are pricey! The pointer is sitting at about 2:15 o'clock so I figure it has to be an "oil shear" on the belt, but! I've had automotive tensioners fall off in parts into my hands when I pulled off the belt. Guess only the great bobcat god in the sky can know the true answer, until I replace it. thanks...
2:15 is loose.
 
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lonfu

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2:15 is loose.
I thought I read in the service manuel to turn bring the pointer to 3:00 and back off slightly, with 1:00 being the readjust point. Manuel said not to peg it to 3:00, Did I read that wrong?
 

Bobcatdan

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I thought I read in the service manuel to turn bring the pointer to 3:00 and back off slightly, with 1:00 being the readjust point. Manuel said not to peg it to 3:00, Did I read that wrong?
The tensioner will bottom out just past 3:00. Pry it until to bottoms and let it come back up a hair.
 
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lonfu

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The tensioner will bottom out just past 3:00. Pry it until to bottoms and let it come back up a hair.
I just got my new belt, I'll work on it tomorrow morning after my lift! thanks for the info. Sounds like the manuel needs updating, since I'm a hands on type of guy I'll do as you suggested. Now the question is? that a fat hair or a skinny hair? (-:
 

Bobcatdan

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I just got my new belt, I'll work on it tomorrow morning after my lift! thanks for the info. Sounds like the manuel needs updating, since I'm a hands on type of guy I'll do as you suggested. Now the question is? that a fat hair or a skinny hair? (-:
I normally pry it down until it bottoms out, then I let it off just that it isn't. The pointer isn't really needed. They are loose or missing half the time anyways.
 
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