t190 hydraulics real slow and machine won't move like brakes still engaged..help!

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rustydozer

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Sep 13, 2014
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Ok I am trying to fix this t190..what we did was change the tracks and after we did that the problem occured. The machine starts fine. The lights go out except the seatbelt light gives me a problem until I start and restart machine and it goes out eventually...ok so the lift arm and bucket work super slow and it feels like the left side of the machine still has the parking brake engaged.....where do I go from here?
 

OldMachinist

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I start by checking the hydraulic system pressure since the brakes are released by hydraulic pressure. Should be around 3300 psi at the aux. couplings at full throttle for a T190.
 
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rustydozer

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I start by checking the hydraulic system pressure since the brakes are released by hydraulic pressure. Should be around 3300 psi at the aux. couplings at full throttle for a T190.
Where is the best place to buy the hydraulic tester for bobcats? Is there any bobcat mechanics on here from south new jersey that would come out to my shop and diagnose or I would come to you?
 

OldMachinist

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Where is the best place to buy the hydraulic tester for bobcats? Is there any bobcat mechanics on here from south new jersey that would come out to my shop and diagnose or I would come to you?
All you need for a preliminary pressure check is a gauge, hose and a quick connector to plug into one of the auxiliaries.
 

7LBSSMALLIE

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All you need for a preliminary pressure check is a gauge, hose and a quick connector to plug into one of the auxiliaries.
clafiry seat belt light? wont go out. keep in mind a simple warning. no lockouts involved. is this a two speed unit? early S/N t190 also had a brake release valve located by right hand when sitting in seat under steering console by safety down valve. underneath.. console . elect solenoid. may be barking up wrong tree but worth a look. if seat belt light wont go off which it should after about a min of run time. I would inspect controller. is a snap to gether or a potted controller? also are there low batt codes present. may be elect not hyd . don't chase tail confirm one or the other. inspect case drains as well.
 
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rustydozer

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clafiry seat belt light? wont go out. keep in mind a simple warning. no lockouts involved. is this a two speed unit? early S/N t190 also had a brake release valve located by right hand when sitting in seat under steering console by safety down valve. underneath.. console . elect solenoid. may be barking up wrong tree but worth a look. if seat belt light wont go off which it should after about a min of run time. I would inspect controller. is a snap to gether or a potted controller? also are there low batt codes present. may be elect not hyd . don't chase tail confirm one or the other. inspect case drains as well.
I took it to the bobcat dealer in north jersey yesterday morning.. a 2 week wait to be looked at and $110 an hour to track down the problem. I will post what was needed to fix the problem as soon as I get it back..if everybody did that it would help alot of people out. Thanks for the replies guys. I just couldn't waste more time on trying to fix it when the dealer has all the diagnostic tools at their disposal.
 

Bobcatdan

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I took it to the bobcat dealer in north jersey yesterday morning.. a 2 week wait to be looked at and $110 an hour to track down the problem. I will post what was needed to fix the problem as soon as I get it back..if everybody did that it would help alot of people out. Thanks for the replies guys. I just couldn't waste more time on trying to fix it when the dealer has all the diagnostic tools at their disposal.
If one side works, you have pressure. Brakes are release by charge pressure, 450 psi of so. Problem would be the side not driving. Brakes are spring applied, hydraulic release. Remove any line? There are two hoses, brake and case drain that if you tried hard enough, you could swap. As to slow loader function, does the main sound like it is laboring to lift the boom? Maybe a stuck aux, worth a check. Otherwise, flow equals speed, low pump flow, low cycle speed. Pressure equals power.
 

whirlwindsdad

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I would loosen the tracks a little as some of the new tracks have too much rubber on the inside and causes rubbing on the hose housing. If they turn when loose you at least know its not internal problems. It might be that the sprocket is worn and does not hold the tracks away from the housing or it might be the tracks them self.
 

Bobcatdan

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I would loosen the tracks a little as some of the new tracks have too much rubber on the inside and causes rubbing on the hose housing. If they turn when loose you at least know its not internal problems. It might be that the sprocket is worn and does not hold the tracks away from the housing or it might be the tracks them self.
Not that I live by this rule, but you are suppose to replace the sprockets when replacing tracks. The tracks hitting the guard is not going to stop the track. I have seen tracks wear right threw the guard and the fitting below. Even if you loosen the track, you will not be able to roll it because the brake is on.
 

7LBSSMALLIE

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Not that I live by this rule, but you are suppose to replace the sprockets when replacing tracks. The tracks hitting the guard is not going to stop the track. I have seen tracks wear right threw the guard and the fitting below. Even if you loosen the track, you will not be able to roll it because the brake is on.
I see eng drives a belno mention of codes, here.. I would have to suspect a drive motor puked, and sent shrapnel into sys. so to back up is drive belt intact this is how I would approach t/s A; down load codes and update software. B check drive belt C inspect case drain.FILTER. the fact that both drive and lift and tilt are giving grief> goes right back to drive belt this should be indacted by a low charge pressure code. slow lift and tilt? an loss of drive, if this is the case, lets get our head aroun how this sys works..eng drives a belt which in turn drives a shaft shaft turns lft stat right shaft gear pump on the end... with a charge pump between them.
 

7LBSSMALLIE

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I see eng drives a belno mention of codes, here.. I would have to suspect a drive motor puked, and sent shrapnel into sys. so to back up is drive belt intact this is how I would approach t/s A; down load codes and update software. B check drive belt C inspect case drain.FILTER. the fact that both drive and lift and tilt are giving grief> goes right back to drive belt this should be indacted by a low charge pressure code. slow lift and tilt? an loss of drive, if this is the case, lets get our head aroun how this sys works..eng drives a belt which in turn drives a shaft shaft turns lft stat right shaft gear pump on the end... with a charge pump between them.
after reading this y.all don't need this much info, A check active codes. B. check drive belt.C check case dains.D I suspect you wiil find low charge low not allowing bics to function,
 
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rustydozer

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after reading this y.all don't need this much info, A check active codes. B. check drive belt.C check case dains.D I suspect you wiil find low charge low not allowing bics to function,
Ok so here is what they said. It needs a hydro pump.and .a right side drive motor....they charged me $562.00 just to tell me what the problem was. So i call and say i want to pick the machine up and they say it is going to cost almost as much as the diagnosis to put it back together so I can pick machine up. We told them dont worry about it and we just paid the $562 when we came to pick it up we expected to see it all apart but nothing was..they wanted $10,638 just to replace pump and drive motor and they said they wouldn't guarantee the machine be ready to go back to work...never going to buy another bobcat again!
 

Tazza

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Ok so here is what they said. It needs a hydro pump.and .a right side drive motor....they charged me $562.00 just to tell me what the problem was. So i call and say i want to pick the machine up and they say it is going to cost almost as much as the diagnosis to put it back together so I can pick machine up. We told them dont worry about it and we just paid the $562 when we came to pick it up we expected to see it all apart but nothing was..they wanted $10,638 just to replace pump and drive motor and they said they wouldn't guarantee the machine be ready to go back to work...never going to buy another bobcat again!
This is becoming a trend..... There have been some nightmare dealings with Bobcat over their tracked machines lately......
Sadly a travel motor for a tracked machine is expensive, it's a bit rude they won't garantee it though....
 

lesgawlik

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This is becoming a trend..... There have been some nightmare dealings with Bobcat over their tracked machines lately......
Sadly a travel motor for a tracked machine is expensive, it's a bit rude they won't garantee it though....
I saw an ad for a shop it Texas that will rebuild both drive motors for about $4k, including shipping. I have a tracked machine, and the though of a drive motor failure always worried me, not only for the cost of the motor, but what a failed motor takes with it when it goes. The theory of this shop is that if one motor has let go, the other is probably not far behind. I think they have a warranty, too. I supect it is parts only, but I'm not sure. If there's interest, I will look them up.
 

lesgawlik

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I saw an ad for a shop it Texas that will rebuild both drive motors for about $4k, including shipping. I have a tracked machine, and the though of a drive motor failure always worried me, not only for the cost of the motor, but what a failed motor takes with it when it goes. The theory of this shop is that if one motor has let go, the other is probably not far behind. I think they have a warranty, too. I supect it is parts only, but I'm not sure. If there's interest, I will look them up.
This is the shop: http://www.finaldriveparts.com/ I called today, and for $3800 they rebuild both drive motors. One won't cost more than $2300, and they pay shipping both ways. They don't do anything with the control valves, and don't know of anyone who does. I was looking at an 864 which has problems, and if I get that, I'm going to have them do the motors. They have a lot of videos on YouTube showing how the motors are rebuilt.
 
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rustydozer

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This is the shop: http://www.finaldriveparts.com/ I called today, and for $3800 they rebuild both drive motors. One won't cost more than $2300, and they pay shipping both ways. They don't do anything with the control valves, and don't know of anyone who does. I was looking at an 864 which has problems, and if I get that, I'm going to have them do the motors. They have a lot of videos on YouTube showing how the motors are rebuilt.
Thanks for the info! I will check them out....
 
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