Back (Front?) Hoe for 440b

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SkidRoe

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Here are a couple of shots of the hoe that I built for the 440b:
10615345_640357909416704_4082263814916355587_n.jpg

10624619_640357922750036_5163279173767826969_n.jpg

It uses a 3"x12" hydraulic cylinder, and achieves about 135° of bucket movement. Max digging depth is 5'. Bucket width is 12".
The one thing that I learned after using it is you cannot make the bobtach plate too strong!! The lower pins pulled through while I was curling the bucket against a piece of buried concrete. After a bit more straightening, cutting, and welding, that problem was solved.
Cheers - SR
 
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SkidRoe

SkidRoe

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Looks great was it any cheaper than buying one?
Hey ant, yes, it was way cheaper than buying one. And what fun would it be to just buy one?!? I am a stong believer in "fabrication therapy". LOL!!
We (Dad & I) actually built 2, one for the 440b and one for the 773. The cylinders were $100 each, the bucket teeth were $18 each (3 per bucket), the hoses and fitting were roughly $50 per hoe, the rest we built. Dad ordered up $600 of new steel (shop stock), of which we had a lot left over.
We likely have about $500 in materials tied up in each one, if you include things like bucket cutting edge, etc. that we already had left over from other projects.
Cheers - SR
 

antfarmer2

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Hey ant, yes, it was way cheaper than buying one. And what fun would it be to just buy one?!? I am a stong believer in "fabrication therapy". LOL!!
We (Dad & I) actually built 2, one for the 440b and one for the 773. The cylinders were $100 each, the bucket teeth were $18 each (3 per bucket), the hoses and fitting were roughly $50 per hoe, the rest we built. Dad ordered up $600 of new steel (shop stock), of which we had a lot left over.
We likely have about $500 in materials tied up in each one, if you include things like bucket cutting edge, etc. that we already had left over from other projects.
Cheers - SR
Great job the most I have fabed is horse shoes with a hand crank forge lol
 

Tazza

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Great job the most I have fabed is horse shoes with a hand crank forge lol
Great job, nothing like building it your self, even better when it works just as well if not better than you hoped it would.
I did the same on a gas booster, i had about $2-300 into it with hoses, aluminium, seals and one way valves. The first run found the weak points, after that was repaired it worked very well.
 

Farmallh51

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Great job, nothing like building it your self, even better when it works just as well if not better than you hoped it would.
I did the same on a gas booster, i had about $2-300 into it with hoses, aluminium, seals and one way valves. The first run found the weak points, after that was repaired it worked very well.
Looks Great! I too was wondering what the cost to build was. I am always looking online at one make or the other and can't spend as much as they want for one. SR I am interested in more information on what happened to the Bob tach. The Bob tach plates I have made were copied after the ones from Bobcat. I built them out of ¼" plate and had the metal supplier bend them to match the U profile of the original Bob tach plates, then cut them to match with a plasma cuter weld on the top plate and wedge. For anything I have built they seem as strong as is needed but with the pressure of digging with a backhoe pulling on the lower horizontal pins I can see how an issue might happen. I was thinking if the boom is in the middle it might put less stress on the pins. Anyway it looks good and would love to hear how well it dug for you.
 
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SkidRoe

SkidRoe

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Looks Great! I too was wondering what the cost to build was. I am always looking online at one make or the other and can't spend as much as they want for one. SR I am interested in more information on what happened to the Bob tach. The Bob tach plates I have made were copied after the ones from Bobcat. I built them out of ¼" plate and had the metal supplier bend them to match the U profile of the original Bob tach plates, then cut them to match with a plasma cuter weld on the top plate and wedge. For anything I have built they seem as strong as is needed but with the pressure of digging with a backhoe pulling on the lower horizontal pins I can see how an issue might happen. I was thinking if the boom is in the middle it might put less stress on the pins. Anyway it looks good and would love to hear how well it dug for you.
It was partly my own fault. I did not have a piece of 1/4" plate big enough in the shop to make the bobtach plate, so I used 3/16" (I am not convinced that even 1/4" would have been enough). Anyway, I added what I though were adequate gussets (1.5x1/4" bar accros the bottom), based on other attachments that I have built. Wrong!!
Two things happened: 1) the lower pins tore out through the 3/16" material (I should have seen this one coming), and 2) the gussets tore off of the main boom tube. And, of course, I bent the main bobtach plate
To fix it, first off I strightened the main plate the best I could (come-along, torch, sledgehammer, clamps, etc.). Then I added one continuous piece of 3 x 3/8" flat bar as a stiffener all the way across the bottom of the main plate below the boom, welding it to both the boom and the plate. I then plasma cut out the area where the torn out windows were in the side flanges. I made new window plates out of more 3x 3/8" bar, and extended them forward to the lower 3x3/8" stiffener. Before welding in the stiffener, I sheared a 1.5" 45° chamfer on each corner. The ends of the window plates where formed to conform to these chamfers, so they completely tie in to the stiffener. I then added two 45° gussets, made out of 4" x 1/4" flat stock to further tie the lower stiffener to the boom (one on either side). It is not going to break again!!!
I hope you can follow this. I guess I should post a picture....
I did do some thinking before hand on the posistion of the boom on the bobtach plate. I elected to mount it lower, so that I had more mechanical advantage from the bucket cylinder to move the stick. I don't know if it matters too much, you can't really achieve much digging force from purely moving the stick.
Also, I don't think that moving it up higher on the plate will remove much stress from the lower pins. The action of curling the bucket to fill it puts a lot of load on the lower pins; the bobtach plate definitely needs to be stout in that area.
As far as digging goes, it is not too bad. I am still perfecting my technique. It requires a lot more finesse and planning when compared to operating an mini-ex - you cannot just power through the ground. The most digging action comes from curling the bucket, followed by lifting the boom. The angle of attack of the bucket is also important, since you have limited down pressure. The lack of stick pressure can be compensated for some what by simply backing up the machine.
It is still fun to use, way better than a shovel, and the level of control/precision that you can achieve is fantastic. I was able to dig a 6' trench, 2' deep in about a minute and a half, including digging through tree roots.
What I am really looking forward to is getting the unit that we built for the 773 up and running to see how it works.
Cheers - SR
 

Farmallh51

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It was partly my own fault. I did not have a piece of 1/4" plate big enough in the shop to make the bobtach plate, so I used 3/16" (I am not convinced that even 1/4" would have been enough). Anyway, I added what I though were adequate gussets (1.5x1/4" bar accros the bottom), based on other attachments that I have built. Wrong!!
Two things happened: 1) the lower pins tore out through the 3/16" material (I should have seen this one coming), and 2) the gussets tore off of the main boom tube. And, of course, I bent the main bobtach plate
To fix it, first off I strightened the main plate the best I could (come-along, torch, sledgehammer, clamps, etc.). Then I added one continuous piece of 3 x 3/8" flat bar as a stiffener all the way across the bottom of the main plate below the boom, welding it to both the boom and the plate. I then plasma cut out the area where the torn out windows were in the side flanges. I made new window plates out of more 3x 3/8" bar, and extended them forward to the lower 3x3/8" stiffener. Before welding in the stiffener, I sheared a 1.5" 45° chamfer on each corner. The ends of the window plates where formed to conform to these chamfers, so they completely tie in to the stiffener. I then added two 45° gussets, made out of 4" x 1/4" flat stock to further tie the lower stiffener to the boom (one on either side). It is not going to break again!!!
I hope you can follow this. I guess I should post a picture....
I did do some thinking before hand on the posistion of the boom on the bobtach plate. I elected to mount it lower, so that I had more mechanical advantage from the bucket cylinder to move the stick. I don't know if it matters too much, you can't really achieve much digging force from purely moving the stick.
Also, I don't think that moving it up higher on the plate will remove much stress from the lower pins. The action of curling the bucket to fill it puts a lot of load on the lower pins; the bobtach plate definitely needs to be stout in that area.
As far as digging goes, it is not too bad. I am still perfecting my technique. It requires a lot more finesse and planning when compared to operating an mini-ex - you cannot just power through the ground. The most digging action comes from curling the bucket, followed by lifting the boom. The angle of attack of the bucket is also important, since you have limited down pressure. The lack of stick pressure can be compensated for some what by simply backing up the machine.
It is still fun to use, way better than a shovel, and the level of control/precision that you can achieve is fantastic. I was able to dig a 6' trench, 2' deep in about a minute and a half, including digging through tree roots.
What I am really looking forward to is getting the unit that we built for the 773 up and running to see how it works.
Cheers - SR
SR, yes I understand what happened. I was not thinking about the added stress to the lower pins with the backhoe, however; now as I think about it almost all other attachments would have less stress placed on the lower pins. These machines are designed for lifting or upward pressure as you have with a bucket, root grapple, tree grapple etc. I have noticed that many things Bobcat designs in their buckets etc. rely on the shape or engineered layout of the steel for strength. Bobcat uses lighter steel than many of the after market attachment makers do to keep them lightweight. I would keep an eye on the lower pins on the bob tach as I would not want to damage it. These are harder to replace than the newer open style bob tach. Thank you for the info and your experimenting as i am sure there a number of us behind you looking to do similar builds.
 

bobbari123

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Dec 16, 2014
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Hello! great project, i am planning to build same kind of thing. can you tell dimensions of that backhoe, do you have any drawings?
 
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SkidRoe

SkidRoe

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Hello! great project, i am planning to build same kind of thing. can you tell dimensions of that backhoe, do you have any drawings?
I can send you the sketch I made for the linkage, to make it work with a 3"x12" cylinder. Shoot me an e-mail, my e-mail address is in my profile.
Cheers - SR
 
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SkidRoe

SkidRoe

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Hello! great project, i am planning to build same kind of thing. can you tell dimensions of that backhoe, do you have any drawings?
E-mail has been sent. Let me know if you need any other details.
Cheers - SR
 

Gteez

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May 14, 2015
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E-mail has been sent. Let me know if you need any other details.
Cheers - SR
I have made a similar one but with a "thumb" that can be swing back or removed completely. You can then actually pick things up like using your finger and thumb. Anyway, I recently tore the pins through the Bobtach on the machine. Not the attachment plate. Anyone got any ideas on a fix for this?
 

Tazza

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I have made a similar one but with a "thumb" that can be swing back or removed completely. You can then actually pick things up like using your finger and thumb. Anyway, I recently tore the pins through the Bobtach on the machine. Not the attachment plate. Anyone got any ideas on a fix for this?
You are talking about the pins that lock the attachment on the bobtach?
 

Gteez

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May 14, 2015
Messages
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You are talking about the pins that lock the attachment on the bobtach?
Yes. I have an 825 with 2 pins that you engage to lock attachments in place. They pulled through the plate. I will try and post a picture.
 

Tazza

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God I hate pictures. How do I make it bigger?
For something like that, i would knock it back into place, grind one side at a time nice and deep, then run a good weld over it. You really need to get in deep to make it strong enough to not pull out again. Even better if you remove the bobtach from the machine to do it flat. I use quite savage welding rods for stuff like this that i know cut deep. Ferrocraft 11 rods with a high freequency DC welder, works great for cutting deep into the metal. I'm sure you could get something over there of a different brand but the same style of rod.
You need to open the image so it is in it's large state to paste, if you copied the thumbnail, it will show up the same size....
 
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