The control valve on our 4840 for the aux. hydraulics has stuck. I used it a weel ago for a post auger and it worked fine. Oours is an older model so the control is a foot rocker connected to a cable. We lifted the cab and unhooked the cable and the cable/rocker move freely. Does anyone have any ideas as to my problem. It does appear that the hyd. fluid is low so I will add that but all other hydraulics work fine. any help or suggestions would be greatly appreaciated.
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antfarmer2
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Put a hose between the two aux lines so you can use it and bounce it back and forth to unstick it
Thanks for the quidk response----couple of follow up questions---have you heared of this sticking problem before? Secondly would it work to connect up my post digger (wouild that have the same effect as connecting a hose between? the reason I ask is that I currently don't have a hose with male and female connectors. Thansk again.Put a hose between the two aux lines so you can use it and bounce it back and forth to unstick it
antfarmer2
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If you can run it back and forth that should do it ..........and if it has tits or tires it's going to stick you some timeThanks for the quidk response----couple of follow up questions---have you heared of this sticking problem before? Secondly would it work to connect up my post digger (wouild that have the same effect as connecting a hose between? the reason I ask is that I currently don't have a hose with male and female connectors. Thansk again.
antfarmer2
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If it is still sticking look for a loose or bad connection or a hot soliniod that is shorting outIf you can run it back and forth that should do it ..........and if it has tits or tires it's going to stick you some time
antfarmer2
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Sorry never mind fogot the cableIf it is still sticking look for a loose or bad connection or a hot soliniod that is shorting out
Thanks for all your advice. I flipped cab up last night and cracked all lines coming in or out of the valve box with no good resolution. The valve simply will not move. I think my next step is to unhook the five or six lines and remove the entire valve box to have a gehl dealer or someone look at it. Do you have any other ideas or suggestions. It is absolutely baffling that all of a sudden it doesnt move. There is a round black electrical thing on the top rear of the whole valve box. Is it possible that some safety switch or other electrical fuse etc could be causing the lock-up?Sorry never mind fogot the cable
antfarmer2
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I don't know that critter but I sure would start there ..........if you take the body out that is the hard part you could replace the seals yourself just whatch out for flying balls and springs but if your not leaking fluid I would look for something else........but if it loading up and can't drive you can put in the bypass loop I told you about as a temp fixThanks for all your advice. I flipped cab up last night and cracked all lines coming in or out of the valve box with no good resolution. The valve simply will not move. I think my next step is to unhook the five or six lines and remove the entire valve box to have a gehl dealer or someone look at it. Do you have any other ideas or suggestions. It is absolutely baffling that all of a sudden it doesnt move. There is a round black electrical thing on the top rear of the whole valve box. Is it possible that some safety switch or other electrical fuse etc could be causing the lock-up?
antfarmer2
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Also I would ajust your cables you might just have it stuck in a detent for constant flowI don't know that critter but I sure would start there ..........if you take the body out that is the hard part you could replace the seals yourself just whatch out for flying balls and springs but if your not leaking fluid I would look for something else........but if it loading up and can't drive you can put in the bypass loop I told you about as a temp fix
My son and I took a couple of hours yesterday and removed the valve box. Really was not too terrible. When we got it out we see a round black "solonoid looking" electrical piece mounted directly on the rear of the auxuliarry valve. It was connected tothe electrical system. Do you think there could be a circuit breaker somewhere that went out and caused the aux valve to lock up? Any other thoughts? Thanks gcAlso I would ajust your cables you might just have it stuck in a detent for constant flow
antfarmer2
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On the back side of the aux hydro on my 743 is a cup looking thing with a c clip holding it on under there is some balls loaded with a spring that goes in a detent that can get stuck yours have anything like that?My son and I took a couple of hours yesterday and removed the valve box. Really was not too terrible. When we got it out we see a round black "solonoid looking" electrical piece mounted directly on the rear of the auxuliarry valve. It was connected tothe electrical system. Do you think there could be a circuit breaker somewhere that went out and caused the aux valve to lock up? Any other thoughts? Thanks gc
You say it is stuck, is it stuck on?On the back side of the aux hydro on my 743 is a cup looking thing with a c clip holding it on under there is some balls loaded with a spring that goes in a detent that can get stuck yours have anything like that?
Now, are there two solenoids, one either end of the aux? Bobcat machines use two, one for each direction. Is yours done with a thumb switch or with a lever/pedal? so manual or electrical connection to the control block.
controls to the aux valve are manual. There is a rocker foor pedal connected toa cable. I have unhooked those and they move freely. The only electrical aspect to the whole valve box is a round cylinder connected to the rear side of the aux valve. We pulled the whole box off and took it to local repair guy yesterday and he definitely cofirmed it stuck. My son said he heated it with a torch and the expanded hydr oil forced the valve plunger out. He said something about a plastic liner needs replaced. Did not sound really serious....................so far. Have your heard of anything like this??You say it is stuck, is it stuck on?
Now, are there two solenoids, one either end of the aux? Bobcat machines use two, one for each direction. Is yours done with a thumb switch or with a lever/pedal? so manual or electrical connection to the control block.
If a torch was used, it could indeed be the plastic that melted and stuck the plunger.controls to the aux valve are manual. There is a rocker foor pedal connected toa cable. I have unhooked those and they move freely. The only electrical aspect to the whole valve box is a round cylinder connected to the rear side of the aux valve. We pulled the whole box off and took it to local repair guy yesterday and he definitely cofirmed it stuck. My son said he heated it with a torch and the expanded hydr oil forced the valve plunger out. He said something about a plastic liner needs replaced. Did not sound really serious....................so far. Have your heard of anything like this??
I don't know what parts are inside this valve, so i can't say he is right or wrong, but if they work on them all the time, they should know and not feed you BS.
I just got off the phone with the local Gehl dealer and after checking out the valve box they said it is fine and belive that I have an electrical issue. He says that the solonoid on the rear of the valve box has to have juice to it to "unlock" or otherwise allow the auxialairy valve to operate. He is an honest fellow. Do you have any suggestion as to where or which fuse or breaker or switch I should be checking? All help and suggestions are greatly appreaciated. gcIf a torch was used, it could indeed be the plastic that melted and stuck the plunger.
I don't know what parts are inside this valve, so i can't say he is right or wrong, but if they work on them all the time, they should know and not feed you BS.
I have never worked on one, i'd check all the fuses i could find and check that the coil the mechanic told you about. Ensure it is not open circuit.I just got off the phone with the local Gehl dealer and after checking out the valve box they said it is fine and belive that I have an electrical issue. He says that the solonoid on the rear of the valve box has to have juice to it to "unlock" or otherwise allow the auxialairy valve to operate. He is an honest fellow. Do you have any suggestion as to where or which fuse or breaker or switch I should be checking? All help and suggestions are greatly appreaciated. gc
If you knew it was 12v, you could hook 12v to it and see if it unlocks as it should, then work back from there to find the issue, be it a fuse or switch.
So to be clear, I should be able to connect a positve 12V on one terminal and negative 12v on the other terminal and it should release or unlock-----correct? I agree that it makes sense to test this before I install the valve box back in. This follwoing quesiton may seem foolish but here goes"""""""" If, after I check for blown fuses or circuit breakers and presumably cannot find any problem-----------is it crazy as a last resort to wire direct to the solonoid terminal with a toggle switch? Beleive me this would be the last resort but may be beter than spending several hundred dollars for a mechanic to try to trace the electrical problem...................your thoughts??????I have never worked on one, i'd check all the fuses i could find and check that the coil the mechanic told you about. Ensure it is not open circuit.
If you knew it was 12v, you could hook 12v to it and see if it unlocks as it should, then work back from there to find the issue, be it a fuse or switch.
One last question----------will it harm the solonoid depending on which terminal I connect red or black? In other words can I screw it up and connect backwards?So to be clear, I should be able to connect a positve 12V on one terminal and negative 12v on the other terminal and it should release or unlock-----correct? I agree that it makes sense to test this before I install the valve box back in. This follwoing quesiton may seem foolish but here goes"""""""" If, after I check for blown fuses or circuit breakers and presumably cannot find any problem-----------is it crazy as a last resort to wire direct to the solonoid terminal with a toggle switch? Beleive me this would be the last resort but may be beter than spending several hundred dollars for a mechanic to try to trace the electrical problem...................your thoughts??????
I don't believe it matters what way it is wired.One last question----------will it harm the solonoid depending on which terminal I connect red or black? In other words can I screw it up and connect backwards?
The issue i can see, is i *think* the solenoid is 10v and not 12v, but i can't be sure. 12v for a short time will be ok, but best to not run it for extend periods of time without knowing for sure.
SuperTrucker795
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Ever find the problem? I have same issue on my r105
