1990 Case 1840 Hydraulic Drive Project

I bought this loader about 5 years ago and done some minor wrenching to get it going pretty good. It was always slightly weaker on the right side but nothing to really bother me. I was running it yesterday and I had hearing protection on and I felt, more than I heard, a slight grinding and my immediate thought was the chain had run off but checked and both chains are good. So...I have good lift and bucket control and good left side forward and reverse. I've got the cab moved forward and there are no leaks anywhere...would appreciate advice for diagnosing. My immediate thought was to switch drives ....if it is the drive motor I plan to replace them both so I don't see a down side to this as a first step. Since I have left side, lift and bucket control, it is safe to assume I'm good on charge pressure and the tandem pump? Any suggestions are more than welcomed.

That is a good idea but I would see if it has drain case filters first and change them

antfarmer2 said:

That is a good idea but I would see if it has drain case filters first and change them

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Is it possible to just reroute hoses and not physically move the pumps?

antfarmer2 said:

That is a good idea but I would see if it has drain case filters first and change them

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I recall bobcat's having case drain filters but don't think they were ever used on Case 1840's. There is a main hydraulic filter, spin on type.

bobtaildog said:

I recall bobcat's having case drain filters but don't think they were ever used on Case 1840's. There is a main hydraulic filter, spin on type.

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Can't see it from here but sure it would be easyer to swap motors loaderpartsource would be the place to look for motors

antfarmer2 said:

Can't see it from here but sure it would be easyer to swap motors loaderpartsource would be the place to look for motors

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I've searched and read many forum questions and answers related to the hydraulic drive system ....can anyone give me a general outline of how you go about "flushing a system"? I may have a bad drive pump and before I start swapping things around, I'd like to understand what my next step would be if the problem does move with the pump. Thanks

bobtaildog said:

I've searched and read many forum questions and answers related to the hydraulic drive system ....can anyone give me a general outline of how you go about "flushing a system"? I may have a bad drive pump and before I start swapping things around, I'd like to understand what my next step would be if the problem does move with the pump. Thanks

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Pull the lowest hoses and let it drain refill and run repete as needed some shoot the fluid out the aux hydro untill sounds funny works but be careful

antfarmer2 said:

Pull the lowest hoses and let it drain refill and run repete as needed some shoot the fluid out the aux hydro untill sounds funny works but be careful

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So if I took a hose off a drive motor and lowered it below all other hoses it would gravity drain through the tandem pump?

bobtaildog said:

So if I took a hose off a drive motor and lowered it below all other hoses it would gravity drain through the tandem pump?

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Slowly will never get it all out if you can disconect the cylinders and work them back and forth can get a bit more

antfarmer2 said:

Slowly will never get it all out if you can disconect the cylinders and work them back and forth can get a bit more

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So an update on this project, I did remove the hoses from the right side drive motor and capped it at the tandem pump......i can kill the motor with forward and reverse movement of the swash plate. So in the process of all this, I decided to remove hubs and check all wheel bearings and to no surprise, they are needed all the way around. Anybody got a good source for wheel bearings ...walt's tractors had best price of $31.03 for seals, bearings, races...but they can't get them at this time. Local NAPA wanted $28 for a seal and $17 for a bearing.

bobtaildog said:

So an update on this project, I did remove the hoses from the right side drive motor and capped it at the tandem pump......i can kill the motor with forward and reverse movement of the swash plate. So in the process of all this, I decided to remove hubs and check all wheel bearings and to no surprise, they are needed all the way around. Anybody got a good source for wheel bearings ...walt's tractors had best price of $31.03 for seals, bearings, races...but they can't get them at this time. Local NAPA wanted $28 for a seal and $17 for a bearing.

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Believe it or not I got mine on Amazon. Cross reference your bearings, races and seals to Timken numbers. (I searched Google) Prices were good and they have them in stock. SimS