Fluid is milky, but full Filter looks new. I have it up on blocks with the wheels off. I can turn the hubs by hand so I assume the chain and trans are all free. It feels like the hubs turn a little easier when the thing is running and in gear. I was thinking I might have a check valve stuck some where just not sure where. I have a parts break down so I think my next step is to see what the inside of one of these things looks like. From what I've seen these things can get very pricey very fast. Thanks of the help
One other thing. If I end up taking out the drive motor I want to flush the whole system. What is the best thing to use? I don't think taking a hose loose and sticking the garden hose in it is a real good idea
I would pull a line off the motors and let the fluid with water drain and pull the filter it will take a while and still will not get it all that will give others time to see this and ring in but from what I have seen would be a good start on my bobcat you could not turn the motor by hand with fluid in itOne other thing. If I end up taking out the drive motor I want to flush the whole system. What is the best thing to use? I don't think taking a hose loose and sticking the garden hose in it is a real good idea
But does not have the towing option so my best guess is something is stuck in there from the water will it pick up and tilt?......... and keep your water hose out of it has to much water already
Ant, I guess you have already figured out I'm New to this. By towing I mean the two small buttons on the back of the pump that a plate goes over to tow it. Garden hose ..... end of joke laugh hear ----->
Mine does not have that and new too but would start looking there for your stuck valve will the hydro work on the lift and any info you know about its past will help
The hydro (arms and bucket ?) work fine but that is a separate pump. It came from E-bay so I don't have any history. Even if I drain all the fluid I'm not sure how to get the moisture out. The manual calls for Type F trans fluid but at 9.5 gallons I'm not sure I want to just keep running fluid thru it till it clears up. Just to find out I have $1500 worth of bad motors. It's only a toy
The only way to get the water out of it is to keep running it threw untill it clears up you can help it a bit buy draining as much as you can from any lines you can but really think something in your towing bypass is stuck open because you can turn it by hand if the drive motors are fillied with oil and no open valves you could not get the wheels to turn evan if you had a tank you would just drag it around
Ok then That's where I'm going to start. I will pull and inspect the valves. Thanks for the help!! Will post my findings
Good luck change and fill your filter do not run empty
Quick up date.... I removed the drive pump, I stuck my finger in the hole where the pump came out of and the gear that the pump drives turns free? Shouldn't that gear be hooked to the chain thru the gear box???
Are you talking about one of the two hydro drive motors? ....don't know your machine but would say yes..........when you turn the front tire does the back move also.......sounds like your on to something......keep us posted still waiting for someone that knows that critter to chime in
Ok I was wrong. I checked both hubs/both sides they turn together (front and rear) and both move the chain and both move the gear that the hydro motor meshes to. Took both relief valves out of both motors and freed them up they were sticking. Another thing, The dip stick for the fluid showed full (just a mark ground in the shaft?) but when I drained it I only got a little over 6 gallons, The manual says it takes 9.5 to fill it. I know I lost some but not 3 gallons.
Ok sound like you got it you still have 3 plus gallons of watered down fluid you can open lines and work the cylinders back and forth but will never get it all once you change the filter and refill all you can burp some of the old out of the aux hydro I would try this first with just the starter.........while it is up in the air pull the wheels in and out for end play should be none
All the cylinders are bottomed out, while I had the hydro motors out I turned them backwards by hand and got as much fluid out as I could, removed the filter and blew out the lines. Blew out the tank and let it drain over night. Now time for new fluid and another question. What I drained out was not red. The manual calls for Type F trans fluid but that was not what was in it. At $5 @ qt that's going to be $200 for something I going to have drain again anyway. What else can I use in place of Type F?
When the cylinders are bottomed out they are still filled with oil on the rod side of the piston so that is bad oil also. I would not be flushing it with $5 a qt oil. Use lower price hyd oil or motor oil, whatever is on sale till you think it is cleaned out.
I agree and would look around for someone that buys it in bulk
