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Flip57
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- Feb 5, 2012
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My backhoe worked fine for a day and them developed a leak from the swing cylinder. I have ordered the repair kit from bobcat and a repair manual from ebay. I was hoping someone here knew how to remove the cylinder for repair. It looks like the rack and two hydraulic cylinders are removed as one or at least the cylinders must be twisted out of their saddles before the cylinder can be pulled off of the piston. At least I hope the seals can be changed without separating the arm from the base. If anyone has repaired these cylinders before, please let us know.
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- Feb 23, 2011
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i would think you could leave the ram and unscrew the saddle part, opposite of what you'd do for a lift arm seal. they are obviously 2 saddles and one piston
I did the seals on mine last year. My recollection is it wasn't as easy as I would have liked, but easier than I was expecting. To get the big pin out I left the hydraulics connected to the hoe so that I could position it to take all load off the pin, using the two feet and bucket as a "three point" jack. The pin wasn't tight in anything, so slips fairly easy if you get everything lined up. The pin is the same both top-and-bottom, with a big washer and screw at each end. Of course, the screw at the bottom probably has its head all chewed up from dragging on the ground for years! Point is, the pin can be removed going either up or down, but I ended up digging a hole beneath it... can't remember why, now. My recollection is that both those cylinders need to be removed. It is probably possible to just loosen one and swing it out (the other one off) to R&R the ram, and I think I tried that but found it was easier to pull them both. The actual dis-assembly and re-assembly only took about 2-3 hours for each session, but it's a goodly mess and there is certainly lots of opportunity to get yourself pinched somewhere! The seals ($90 for me) are more complicated than just O-rings, so figure to buy the kit; i don't think you will be able to find generic ones very easily.
Thanks for all the help. I have my 909 up on blocks in my barn. Now that I know how to do this and not screw it up. The pin in my 909 will not move I will make a press from some Threaded rod and flat stock steel, mount it in the holes each side of the retaining pin ease it out. I will let you know how I make out. Thanks for the Help. Great site.
Is there a lot of rust there? I found that the big pin wasn't tight in either the hoe arm or the bearings at top and bottom of the mount "fork". However, you have to get it positioned just right, or friction alone will make it hard to get out; and probably impossible to get back in since you will have to have alignment in several places to get it started back through the top and bottom bearings. Those bearings come out fairly easily (they are ball/roller), but the inner-race is extended and fairly fragile; I cracked one going back together but deemed it to be not critical, just a heads-up for you to be careful! I realized after I wrote last night that my comment about using the feet and bucket as a "three point jack" is kind of meaningless, as you are separating the arm from the mount so that "three-point" assembly is no longer solid! Thinking about it some more, I was also using blocks, a small scissors-jack, and the B'cat front lift/tilt movement too (had 909 loose from the "trailer-hitch" balls). Point is, alignment to relieve load on the pin is critical. Also, it was an easy enough job that I didn't remember all the gory details for long! Enjoy...
Flip57
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- Joined
- Feb 5, 2012
- Messages
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It was easier for me to remove the arm assembly. I stretched it out flat and set the bucket on the ground. I pulled the top pin whiile the machine was attached then retracted the ram to pull it out of the way. I labled the 6 hoses before disconnecting them. I set blocks under the arm, adjusted so there was no load, pulled the snap ring and tapped the pin out. I was able to move into my garage to work on the rest from there.
Pic of leaky cylinder, you can see some of the seal sticking out.
The bottom bolt of the swing mount was worn to the point that I could not get a wrench on it so I put a pipe wrench on the thick washer and a socket on the upper bolt. Then I had to lift the whole thing up far enough to get the pin out through the bottom.
Here it is ready to pull the cylinders.
This was a very messy job. I had oil everywhere. I don't have any pictures of putting the seals in because my arms were oiled from fingertip to elbow.
Once the assembly was on the bench I got the bodies off and replaced the seals. The one that was leaking was hard and cracked. the one that wasn't leaking was hard but still holding. I did not replace the check balls on the inside because it was all working fine, just leaking at the ram. I had some help putting the swivel pin back in. I had him lift high enough for me to get the pin back in and start a thread on the upper bolt then lower it back to the ground. Aligning the arm was time consuming as I did not have anyone to spot when I was in the right place so I had a lot of off and on the machine until I got it close and the hight right. I put a come-along to slide the arm the last little bit so I could re-install the lower pin. Then I re-attached the 6 hoses to their correct position. Then attached the supply hoses and extended the ram to the proper length to pin the top. I bought a gallon of oil to replace the losses but that just brought it up to the add mark on the stick. Went back to work with no more leak.
No this thing is locked in on each side with U type clamps swing pin has to be removed to get room to move swing piston
I tried to respond to Flip 57 would not post for me Flip great photos what a job. I was hoping to get mine repaired without doing all that work. I have the hoe and mounting frame up on blocks in my garage, No pressure on swing pin. Top bolt removed Fat washer removed, Looks like a cup washer around pin, unable to remove it. Flip you mentioned a Snap ring on the swing pin, I did not see one. perhaps this is why I cannot remove swing pin. I have to figure out how to post photos. I was hoping to move swing pin down below sprocket, tip hoe back or frame forward to get enough room to remove swing cylinder.
I don't remember there being a snap-ring, just the screw and washer at each end of the pin; but maybe all 909s aren't quite the same, or maybe I just don't remember... I, too, didn't fuss with the balls and seals in the ram, it was only the big seal on the ram that was cracked, just like in the picture posted. I left the arm attached to the "gear base" and the hoses attached, but had it laid out straight on the ground for easier positioning using jacks and blocks. Again, pretty much as describe before
I never tough about laying the hoe straight out flat on the floor. dooooh makes seance and safer to work on. I will give it a try . Thanks for all the advice. I will post results may take some time
I am back this is what i did Thanks for all the help
BOBCAT 909 BACKHOE SWING STEER SYLINDER REMOVAL
No you do not have to remove the hoe
I removed attachment from loader, extended hoe out on the ground, blocked up the bucked end about 10". Blocked up the frame about the same this allows you to get a floor jack under the hoe when you need to do adjustments. Remove the top cap on the swing pin, remove the bolt and washer, you will need to put a wrench on the bottom bolt under the swing pin, I used a piece of plywood and floor jack to hold the wrench in Place. Remove the top bolt and washer. The sleeve bearing that the washer sits on stays in place. Remove floor jack. Insert a traded bolt about 10" long, same size as the one you removed. Make sure there is no tension on the swing pin; the frame and hoe are supported separately. use a heavy hammer drive the pin down until it clears the top mounting bracket. The sleeve baring stays in place. Remove 10" bolt, pull the frame back a few inches this will allow you to remove swing shaft.
Install I used a come-along to pull the hoe and frame together. line hp the pin and mounting bracket you might have to use floor jack to make some adjustment where the hoe attaches to the frame. place the large washer on top of the sleeve baring, Insert the 10" bolt with a not on the bolt all the way up, hand tighten bolt, back nut down to the washer tighten nut this will pull the pin into position, keep cranking until pin reaches the top of retaining bracket. Remove 10" bolt, insert retaining bolt tighten. Replace cap, grease all done. Note after removing thr sylinders checked them out found small pit holes in crome plating , hydrolic expert tell me I need need to change piston. it will rip seals apart new one cost 900.00. I put it back with new seals we will see what happens.
BOBCAT 909 BACKHOE SWING STEER SYLINDER REMOVAL
No you do not have to remove the hoe
I removed attachment from loader, extended hoe out on the ground, blocked up the bucked end about 10". Blocked up the frame about the same this allows you to get a floor jack under the hoe when you need to do adjustments. Remove the top cap on the swing pin, remove the bolt and washer, you will need to put a wrench on the bottom bolt under the swing pin, I used a piece of plywood and floor jack to hold the wrench in Place. Remove the top bolt and washer. The sleeve bearing that the washer sits on stays in place. Remove floor jack. Insert a traded bolt about 10" long, same size as the one you removed. Make sure there is no tension on the swing pin; the frame and hoe are supported separately. use a heavy hammer drive the pin down until it clears the top mounting bracket. The sleeve baring stays in place. Remove 10" bolt, pull the frame back a few inches this will allow you to remove swing shaft.
Install I used a come-along to pull the hoe and frame together. line hp the pin and mounting bracket you might have to use floor jack to make some adjustment where the hoe attaches to the frame. place the large washer on top of the sleeve baring, Insert the 10" bolt with a not on the bolt all the way up, hand tighten bolt, back nut down to the washer tighten nut this will pull the pin into position, keep cranking until pin reaches the top of retaining bracket. Remove 10" bolt, insert retaining bolt tighten. Replace cap, grease all done. Note after removing thr sylinders checked them out found small pit holes in crome plating , hydrolic expert tell me I need need to change piston. it will rip seals apart new one cost 900.00. I put it back with new seals we will see what happens.
So... was it as "easy" as I alluded to?
