Removing ROPS on 773 and 743

Dameon · Jul 21, 2014

Are there any "spring loaded" gotchas with removing the ROPS on these models? I can't tell for sure, but it doesn't look like there is tension on the coil spring when the ROPS is lifted.
It would make things MUCH easier to refurb/paint if the ROPS was off.
Thanks.

antfarmer2 · Jul 21, 2014

Never took mine off but there is some tension on it less when up becareful I painted mine with it on

Dameon · Jul 21, 2014

antfarmer2 said:
Never took mine off but there is some tension on it less when up becareful I painted mine with it on

Thanks for the super quick response AF2. You must live on this forum.
I initially assumed there must be some tension when fully opened/up, but I couldn't see a way to tilt it back any further to relieve tension before removal. There must be a tool or method to easily perform this procedure. Maybe I need to look for a service manual for each model. I'm sure that would "tell the tale".
I could blast/paint the ROPS on the 743 without removing it without too much trouble, but the 773 has more sensitive electronics (deluxe keypad) to be concerned about when blasting/washing/painting. That pad is EXPENSIVE, so I'd rather not damage it.

antfarmer2 · Jul 21, 2014

Dameon said:
Thanks for the super quick response AF2. You must live on this forum.
I initially assumed there must be some tension when fully opened/up, but I couldn't see a way to tilt it back any further to relieve tension before removal. There must be a tool or method to easily perform this procedure. Maybe I need to look for a service manual for each model. I'm sure that would "tell the tale".
I could blast/paint the ROPS on the 743 without removing it without too much trouble, but the 773 has more sensitive electronics (deluxe keypad) to be concerned about when blasting/washing/painting. That pad is EXPENSIVE, so I'd rather not damage it.

I retired at 49 and take care of my wife so don't get out much.........evan if you take the cage off you will need to take the pad off so why not leave the cage on and take the pad off?

antfarmer2 · Jul 21, 2014

Dameon said:
Thanks for the super quick response AF2. You must live on this forum.
I initially assumed there must be some tension when fully opened/up, but I couldn't see a way to tilt it back any further to relieve tension before removal. There must be a tool or method to easily perform this procedure. Maybe I need to look for a service manual for each model. I'm sure that would "tell the tale".
I could blast/paint the ROPS on the 743 without removing it without too much trouble, but the 773 has more sensitive electronics (deluxe keypad) to be concerned about when blasting/washing/painting. That pad is EXPENSIVE, so I'd rather not damage it.

I retired at age 49 now I take care of my wife so don't get out much evan if you take the cage off will will need to take the pad off so why not leave the cage on and remove the pad

Dameon · Jul 21, 2014

antfarmer2 said:
I retired at age 49 now I take care of my wife so don't get out much evan if you take the cage off will will need to take the pad off so why not leave the cage on and remove the pad

We're in similar boats... I quit my job in 2007 at 37 and now I just kinda hang around the house and work on projects. If I need some "toy money", I'll do a quick job for someone. Much less stress this way.
I wanted to take the ROPS off as I was concerned about blasting agent (aluminum oxide, sand, whatever) getting all down into the machine. Even with tarps and such, that blasting agent gets everywhere. If it has to stay on, then so be it. Just seems like I could do a more thorough job if it were off. On the 773, I think I need to take the ROPS off anyway to replace the backpad (the gray pad behind the seat). I took the destroyed seat off to put a new one on and found the seat pan was completely eaten away by rust. I cut the seat pan out and need to find someone with a metal brake heavy enough to bend me a new one. Maybe out of something a little more rust resistant.

antfarmer2 · Jul 21, 2014

Dameon said:
We're in similar boats... I quit my job in 2007 at 37 and now I just kinda hang around the house and work on projects. If I need some "toy money", I'll do a quick job for someone. Much less stress this way.
I wanted to take the ROPS off as I was concerned about blasting agent (aluminum oxide, sand, whatever) getting all down into the machine. Even with tarps and such, that blasting agent gets everywhere. If it has to stay on, then so be it. Just seems like I could do a more thorough job if it were off. On the 773, I think I need to take the ROPS off anyway to replace the backpad (the gray pad behind the seat). I took the destroyed seat off to put a new one on and found the seat pan was completely eaten away by rust. I cut the seat pan out and need to find someone with a metal brake heavy enough to bend me a new one. Maybe out of something a little more rust resistant.

My seat was trashed to my seat pan was fine sitting in a scrap heap wish you were closer I would give it to you I bought a new seat for 70 dollars that bolted up to the rails with a plastic bottom a few more bucks you can get the rails........I just used a power sander and rust agent on the bad spots and shot it that sand will bite you in the ass if it gets in bad spots and it will unless you stip it to nothing and keep it away

Dameon · Jul 21, 2014

antfarmer2 said:
My seat was trashed to my seat pan was fine sitting in a scrap heap wish you were closer I would give it to you I bought a new seat for 70 dollars that bolted up to the rails with a plastic bottom a few more bucks you can get the rails........I just used a power sander and rust agent on the bad spots and shot it that sand will bite you in the ass if it gets in bad spots and it will unless you stip it to nothing and keep it away

I should clarify... although the actual seat pan was destroyed, the bigger issue was the ROPS pan that the seat rails bolt to, it was destroyed as well. That's what I had to cut out and that's what I'm having built. Currently, with my ROPS down, you can see straight into the belly of my beast.
I bought a new seat, with rails and embossed Bobcat logo, from my local dealer for $120. Nicer than the factory seat. Not the super nice air-ride seat though... that one was uber expensive.

antfarmer2 · Jul 21, 2014

Dameon said:
I should clarify... although the actual seat pan was destroyed, the bigger issue was the ROPS pan that the seat rails bolt to, it was destroyed as well. That's what I had to cut out and that's what I'm having built. Currently, with my ROPS down, you can see straight into the belly of my beast.
I bought a new seat, with rails and embossed Bobcat logo, from my local dealer for $120. Nicer than the factory seat. Not the super nice air-ride seat though... that one was uber expensive.

Ok I see but you would be surprized what you can do with a bit of heat and a anvil I did some blacksmith work if you don't have a anvil a piece of rail road track will work

tom18287@AOL.COM · Jul 21, 2014

antfarmer2 said:
Ok I see but you would be surprized what you can do with a bit of heat and a anvil I did some blacksmith work if you don't have a anvil a piece of rail road track will work

i THINK you remove the rubber bumpers behind the cab, allowing it to go back more, and the springs will be fully extended. then you can disconnect. tazza should be able to say for sure....

Dameon · Jul 22, 2014

[email protected] said:
i THINK you remove the rubber bumpers behind the cab, allowing it to go back more, and the springs will be fully extended. then you can disconnect. tazza should be able to say for sure....

That sounds like what I was thinking. Those rubber blocks appear to have something to do with spacing. I lightly pried at them, but they seem to be in firmly. I'll wait for Tazza's input and go from there.

Dameon · Jul 22, 2014

Dameon said:
That sounds like what I was thinking. Those rubber blocks appear to have something to do with spacing. I lightly pried at them, but they seem to be in firmly. I'll wait for Tazza's input and go from there.

I was able to locate a "service" manual for the 743. As Tom suspected, the procedure involves removing the rubber blocks: 1) Disconnect electrical harness. 2) Raise operator cab. 3) Fasten a chain and hoist to the operator cab. 4) Remove the bolts and nuts at the spring blocks. 5) Remove spring blocks. 6) Remove the nuts at the pivot bolts. 7) Tighten the chain hoist and remove the bolts from the pivot bracket. Sounds easy. I guess I can use the 773 to lift the 743 ROPS off and the 743 to lift the 773 ROPS off. I'd have to find a tree or something if I didn't have a spare Bobcat.

Dameon · Jul 22, 2014

Dameon said:
I was able to locate a "service" manual for the 743. As Tom suspected, the procedure involves removing the rubber blocks: 1) Disconnect electrical harness. 2) Raise operator cab. 3) Fasten a chain and hoist to the operator cab. 4) Remove the bolts and nuts at the spring blocks. 5) Remove spring blocks. 6) Remove the nuts at the pivot bolts. 7) Tighten the chain hoist and remove the bolts from the pivot bracket. Sounds easy. I guess I can use the 773 to lift the 743 ROPS off and the 743 to lift the 773 ROPS off. I'd have to find a tree or something if I didn't have a spare Bobcat.

Let's try this again with some formatting...
I was able to locate a "service" manual for the 743. As Tom suspected, the procedure involves removing the rubber blocks:

1) Disconnect electrical harness.
2) Raise operator cab.
3) Fasten a chain and hoist to the operator cab.
4) Remove the bolts and nuts at the spring blocks.
5) Remove spring blocks.
6) Remove the nuts at the pivot bolts.
7) Tighten the chain hoist and remove the bolts from the pivot bracket.

Sounds easy. I guess I can use the 773 to lift the 743 ROPS off and the 743 to lift the 773 ROPS off. I'd have to find a tree or something if I didn't have a spare Bobcat.

Removing ROPS on 773 and 743

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