New member with OMC mustang basket case

IndianaJohn · Apr 4, 2014

I just bought an old Owatonna Mustang skid loader basket case for cheap, and have some questions. First off, how do I tell exactly which model I have? The PO bought it as it is now, and couldn't tell me for sure what it was, but thought it was a 1000 model. So far I have not been able to find any model or serial # tag anywhere on the machine. Must have been a sticker that's long gone. From looking at lots of different pics on the web, I have been able to determine that it is either a 1000 or 1200 model machine, but that's as far as I can go. I also know that it had a Wisconsin VH4D engine originally, as the engine shroud was laying in the bucket. I really need to figure this out, as I need to find parts/service info. In particular, I need pics of how the drive system and hydraulic system go together, so I can start reassembly. I either plan to find another V4 Wisconsin engine, or I'm also looking into using an Onan Performer 24hp engine I can pick up for $200. I know that's about 10hp less than the original Wisconsin, but if it will get me going for now, I'll give it a try. I know this forum doesn't get a lot of traffic, but so far it's the only place I've been able to find any real info, so I have my fingers crossed that someone here can help. Service info online seems to be as rare as hen's teeth for these things for some reason.

IndianaJohn · Apr 6, 2014

Well, the mystery is solved! We finally got some actual sunshine today for the first time since I brought this thing home, and I just happened to be looking at the boom sides. There it was as plain as day showing through the faded yellow paint that some PO in the distant past had applied. I could clearly make out the outline of old stickers underneath that read "Series 1000". So at least now I know what model I have and can order operator and parts manuals. I also pulled off the side panels and was able to figure out why the left side wheels turned freely, but the right ones didn't. Turns out that the half link in the chain that runs from the jack shaft to the clutches had fallen apart and the chain had ended up down in the "muck" in the bottom of the housing on the left side. Not easy to get back on either. Also someone had tightened the adjusters for those chains all the way up and there was still slop in the chains. I was able to remove the half links on both sides and now the adjusters are at about the middle of their travel. Somehow I'm going to have to get those housings cleaned out. Otherwise I know all that gunk in the bottoms will end up in my hydraulics. In the mean time while I wait for manuals to arrive, I'm trying to figure out what kind of pump it had, and how it was mounted and driven by the engine. Since the motor has to mount in there sideways, and the pump apparently connects to those steel lines at the middle rear behind the counterweights, I have to wonder how the heck it was driven by the engine? It looks to me like it would be nowhere near the crankshaft end of the engine. Can anybody point me to pics, or at least explain it to me? Thanks for any assistance you can offer!

Tazza · Apr 6, 2014

IndianaJohn said:
Well, the mystery is solved! We finally got some actual sunshine today for the first time since I brought this thing home, and I just happened to be looking at the boom sides. There it was as plain as day showing through the faded yellow paint that some PO in the distant past had applied. I could clearly make out the outline of old stickers underneath that read "Series 1000". So at least now I know what model I have and can order operator and parts manuals. I also pulled off the side panels and was able to figure out why the left side wheels turned freely, but the right ones didn't. Turns out that the half link in the chain that runs from the jack shaft to the clutches had fallen apart and the chain had ended up down in the "muck" in the bottom of the housing on the left side. Not easy to get back on either. Also someone had tightened the adjusters for those chains all the way up and there was still slop in the chains. I was able to remove the half links on both sides and now the adjusters are at about the middle of their travel. Somehow I'm going to have to get those housings cleaned out. Otherwise I know all that gunk in the bottoms will end up in my hydraulics. In the mean time while I wait for manuals to arrive, I'm trying to figure out what kind of pump it had, and how it was mounted and driven by the engine. Since the motor has to mount in there sideways, and the pump apparently connects to those steel lines at the middle rear behind the counterweights, I have to wonder how the heck it was driven by the engine? It looks to me like it would be nowhere near the crankshaft end of the engine. Can anybody point me to pics, or at least explain it to me? Thanks for any assistance you can offer!

You won't be happy with 10HP less, it will get you moving, but that would be about it.
Good to hear you got the chains and adjusters sorted out.
To clean the much out, can you spray diesel around and mop it out with a rag? you really want as much of it out and if it uses this for hydraulic oil, you really want it clean or it will plug the filter pretty fast.

IndianaJohn · Apr 6, 2014

Tazza said:
You won't be happy with 10HP less, it will get you moving, but that would be about it.
Good to hear you got the chains and adjusters sorted out.
To clean the much out, can you spray diesel around and mop it out with a rag? you really want as much of it out and if it uses this for hydraulic oil, you really want it clean or it will plug the filter pretty fast.

Actually it turns out I would only be losing 6hp, as I just recently found out that the VH4D Wisconsin makes 30hp. I've been thinking about converting the drive system over to a hybrid hydraulic system anyway, as I would be looking at some major work to rebuild the variable belt drive system. Lots of parts are missing, and the driven pulley has a broken hub on one side and the whole assembly is loose on the right side. In fact I can grab the jack shaft on that side and move it around like there is a bushing or bearing inside t He outer sheave that's missing. I'm not even sure that shaft is supposed to be two pieces. Would think it should be a solid shaft. I guess I'll know more when I get the parts manual. Anyway, I read on here where someone converted one of these over to a chain drive and I have considered that, but as I said, I'm looking at possibly going hydraulic like my old Case GT uses. My idea would be to get rid of the pulley system, and drive the jack shaft with a hydraulic motor. Then I could use the old speed control lever to work a valve to control the speed of the hydraulic motor. No mechanical connection between the engine and jack shaft, and still have variable speed. That would open up a lot of different engines possibilities, since I would no longer be locked into a transverse engine mounting position. I'd really love to go with a modern OHV engine. Maybe even liquid cooled. Then I could put an enclosed cab on and have heat for moving snow in the winter! Maybe a 3 cylinder Geo engine..........hmmm.

Tazza · Apr 7, 2014

IndianaJohn said:
Actually it turns out I would only be losing 6hp, as I just recently found out that the VH4D Wisconsin makes 30hp. I've been thinking about converting the drive system over to a hybrid hydraulic system anyway, as I would be looking at some major work to rebuild the variable belt drive system. Lots of parts are missing, and the driven pulley has a broken hub on one side and the whole assembly is loose on the right side. In fact I can grab the jack shaft on that side and move it around like there is a bushing or bearing inside t He outer sheave that's missing. I'm not even sure that shaft is supposed to be two pieces. Would think it should be a solid shaft. I guess I'll know more when I get the parts manual. Anyway, I read on here where someone converted one of these over to a chain drive and I have considered that, but as I said, I'm looking at possibly going hydraulic like my old Case GT uses. My idea would be to get rid of the pulley system, and drive the jack shaft with a hydraulic motor. Then I could use the old speed control lever to work a valve to control the speed of the hydraulic motor. No mechanical connection between the engine and jack shaft, and still have variable speed. That would open up a lot of different engines possibilities, since I would no longer be locked into a transverse engine mounting position. I'd really love to go with a modern OHV engine. Maybe even liquid cooled. Then I could put an enclosed cab on and have heat for moving snow in the winter! Maybe a 3 cylinder Geo engine..........hmmm.

I think i saw a post a few years ago of someone that did something close to this. They used a hydraulic motor in the same way you are considering, i don't remember how it worked, but there was some very good progress.
This will be a very interesting project, i hope you take loads of pictures

IndianaJohn · Apr 8, 2014

Tazza said:
I think i saw a post a few years ago of someone that did something close to this. They used a hydraulic motor in the same way you are considering, i don't remember how it worked, but there was some very good progress.
This will be a very interesting project, i hope you take loads of pictures

Well, I stumbled across a posting in a forum last night where someone mentioned that these machines used a 48 GPM pump. Now to me, that seems waaaaayyy too much for the modest hydraulic needs of these units. After all, it's primary load is just those little cylinders that lift and tilt the bucket. 48 GPM would be serious overkill to me. Maybe they meant 4.8 GPM instead. Would make a lot more sense. Of course if I do try the hydraulic hybrid drive idea, I'm sure I'll need a bit more than flow than the stock pump would provide. But first, I need to figure out what the motor requirement would be. I know what the torque specs of the VH4D are, which gives me a starting point, but I'm also guessing I will need to know the maximum speed required as well. I've had some training and experience with hydraulic systems, but I'm no engineer. I'm hoping the operators and parts manuals will give me some useful information when they finally arrive. There doesn't appear to have ever been an actual service manual. Would love to find out whoever it was that you mentioned tried this before so I could pick their brain for info. Would save me a lot of time and trouble. Since pumps and motors aren't exactly cheap, I'd like make sure I get the right ones to start with.

Tazza · Apr 8, 2014

IndianaJohn said:
Well, I stumbled across a posting in a forum last night where someone mentioned that these machines used a 48 GPM pump. Now to me, that seems waaaaayyy too much for the modest hydraulic needs of these units. After all, it's primary load is just those little cylinders that lift and tilt the bucket. 48 GPM would be serious overkill to me. Maybe they meant 4.8 GPM instead. Would make a lot more sense. Of course if I do try the hydraulic hybrid drive idea, I'm sure I'll need a bit more than flow than the stock pump would provide. But first, I need to figure out what the motor requirement would be. I know what the torque specs of the VH4D are, which gives me a starting point, but I'm also guessing I will need to know the maximum speed required as well. I've had some training and experience with hydraulic systems, but I'm no engineer. I'm hoping the operators and parts manuals will give me some useful information when they finally arrive. There doesn't appear to have ever been an actual service manual. Would love to find out whoever it was that you mentioned tried this before so I could pick their brain for info. Would save me a lot of time and trouble. Since pumps and motors aren't exactly cheap, I'd like make sure I get the right ones to start with.

For 48 GPM you would need a huge engine, plus the power needed for the drive system. 4.8 seems low, but it depends on the size of the cylinders, if they are small it may still handle it, just slower.
Pretty sure my S150 has about 16 GPM, it moves the cylinders are a nice speed.
Google is your friend for working out how much power you need to run different pump GPM ratings.

IndianaJohn · Apr 14, 2014

Tazza said:
For 48 GPM you would need a huge engine, plus the power needed for the drive system. 4.8 seems low, but it depends on the size of the cylinders, if they are small it may still handle it, just slower.
Pretty sure my S150 has about 16 GPM, it moves the cylinders are a nice speed.
Google is your friend for working out how much power you need to run different pump GPM ratings.

Well, I figured I would post an update on my project. I just got the last of my manuals I had ordered. The parts manual came last Thursday, and the operator manual and sales brochure came Saturday. The operator manual is apparently the only thing available that has any service info. It turns out that they came with either the 30hp Wisconsin, or a 24hp Kohler. The pump was either a 10 GPM with the Wisconsin or 8 GPM with the Kohler. I have experience with Case/Ingersoll garden tractors which use a hydraulic pump and hydraulic motor for the drive system, and they used Onan engines in the bigger tractors, I figured that would be a good place to start looking for a pump. Some research turned up that the later Ingersoll tractors with power steering used a 9.5 GPM pump that was direct coupled to the flywheel of the engine. So I did some research on eBay and turned up a complete pump setup with snubber arm and the correct drive hub from an Ingersoll 3016 tractor with power steering. Got the complete unit for $169 shipped. So I can bolt this up to the flywheel, whip up a bracket to hold the snubber (anti-rotation) arm, and some fittings and hose will give me hydraulics. This will then leave the crankshaft end of the engine available for driving the machine. At this point, I'm looking into using a large hydrostatic pump unit that came off an old Jacobson gang-reel mower that I scrapped out several years ago to drive the jack shaft. The unit is a large Eaton that includes a cooler and spin-on filter. I figure I'll mount the hydro in front of the motor and above the jack shaft, with a belt running from the engine to the hydro, then chain drive to the jack shaft. I can then connect the original speed control lever to the hydro unit to control ground speed. I know I'll have to do some experimentation with different sprockets to come up with the right "gearing" to get my ground speed where I want it. I am having a new one piece jack shaft made up, and I'm having two different key ways cut into it, so that if the hydro idea doesn't pan out, I can direct chain drive it too. The new jack shaft is supposed to be ready tomorrow afternoon. I'll keep updating here as things go along and I get time.

IndianaJohn · Apr 29, 2014

IndianaJohn said:
Well, I figured I would post an update on my project. I just got the last of my manuals I had ordered. The parts manual came last Thursday, and the operator manual and sales brochure came Saturday. The operator manual is apparently the only thing available that has any service info. It turns out that they came with either the 30hp Wisconsin, or a 24hp Kohler. The pump was either a 10 GPM with the Wisconsin or 8 GPM with the Kohler. I have experience with Case/Ingersoll garden tractors which use a hydraulic pump and hydraulic motor for the drive system, and they used Onan engines in the bigger tractors, I figured that would be a good place to start looking for a pump. Some research turned up that the later Ingersoll tractors with power steering used a 9.5 GPM pump that was direct coupled to the flywheel of the engine. So I did some research on eBay and turned up a complete pump setup with snubber arm and the correct drive hub from an Ingersoll 3016 tractor with power steering. Got the complete unit for $169 shipped. So I can bolt this up to the flywheel, whip up a bracket to hold the snubber (anti-rotation) arm, and some fittings and hose will give me hydraulics. This will then leave the crankshaft end of the engine available for driving the machine. At this point, I'm looking into using a large hydrostatic pump unit that came off an old Jacobson gang-reel mower that I scrapped out several years ago to drive the jack shaft. The unit is a large Eaton that includes a cooler and spin-on filter. I figure I'll mount the hydro in front of the motor and above the jack shaft, with a belt running from the engine to the hydro, then chain drive to the jack shaft. I can then connect the original speed control lever to the hydro unit to control ground speed. I know I'll have to do some experimentation with different sprockets to come up with the right "gearing" to get my ground speed where I want it. I am having a new one piece jack shaft made up, and I'm having two different key ways cut into it, so that if the hydro idea doesn't pan out, I can direct chain drive it too. The new jack shaft is supposed to be ready tomorrow afternoon. I'll keep updating here as things go along and I get time.

Don't know if anyone is still paying attention, but thought I'd post another update here. I have the motor mounted now, and the hydraulic pump is attached to the flywheel and plumbed into the loader's steel lines. The new jackshaft has been installed. I finally got my order from Surplus Center today, and am in the process of installing the new sprockets. I have decided to forego the Eaton hydro pump for now, and just chain drive it directly from the engine to the jackshaft. I just took measurements off the old variable speed pulleys and took my best guess on sprocket sizes. Maybe over the winter I can play with installing the hydro. I have also started connecting up the wiring. Had to build a battery box under the seat, since I couldn't figure out how the original battery went. I'm hoping tomorrow to have the loader moving under its own power again. Still have to clean out the chain cases, then put in fresh oil and the hydraulics should be functional too. I did have some problems with getting replacement seal washers for where the clutch shafts come thru the side covers. I went to the local green dealer first, since I knew that some of their early skid loaders were built by Owatonna, but they wanted over $20 each for these things (plus shipping). I really didn't want to spend about $100 to replace those four washers! I wound up spending some time on line doing some research, and found out that these seal washers were actually made by Parker-Hannifin. Some more research turned up a size chart and part numbers. I was then able to search a bit more and was able to find them at McMaster-Carr for just under $4 each. In Parker-Hannifin packaging even! And the total was less than the price of one thru Deere. If anybody is interested, I'll post the part number here so others can find them as well. I would love to post a pic of where I'm at so far, but I can't seem to find a way to do that here.

antfarmer2 · Apr 29, 2014

IndianaJohn said:
Don't know if anyone is still paying attention, but thought I'd post another update here. I have the motor mounted now, and the hydraulic pump is attached to the flywheel and plumbed into the loader's steel lines. The new jackshaft has been installed. I finally got my order from Surplus Center today, and am in the process of installing the new sprockets. I have decided to forego the Eaton hydro pump for now, and just chain drive it directly from the engine to the jackshaft. I just took measurements off the old variable speed pulleys and took my best guess on sprocket sizes. Maybe over the winter I can play with installing the hydro. I have also started connecting up the wiring. Had to build a battery box under the seat, since I couldn't figure out how the original battery went. I'm hoping tomorrow to have the loader moving under its own power again. Still have to clean out the chain cases, then put in fresh oil and the hydraulics should be functional too. I did have some problems with getting replacement seal washers for where the clutch shafts come thru the side covers. I went to the local green dealer first, since I knew that some of their early skid loaders were built by Owatonna, but they wanted over $20 each for these things (plus shipping). I really didn't want to spend about $100 to replace those four washers! I wound up spending some time on line doing some research, and found out that these seal washers were actually made by Parker-Hannifin. Some more research turned up a size chart and part numbers. I was then able to search a bit more and was able to find them at McMaster-Carr for just under $4 each. In Parker-Hannifin packaging even! And the total was less than the price of one thru Deere. If anybody is interested, I'll post the part number here so others can find them as well. I would love to post a pic of where I'm at so far, but I can't seem to find a way to do that here.

Glade your getting it!

IndianaJohn · Apr 30, 2014

antfarmer2 said:
Glade your getting it!

Well, it's alive!! I was able to drive it around under its own power this afternoon. Still have some bugs to work out, but I'm making progress. My choice in sprocket sizes seems to be pretty close. The carb needs a bit of work still, and I have a bit more work to do on the wiring. Next step is to clean out the chain cases and put in fresh hydraulic oil, then I can bolt the pump back up to the flywheel and I should have working hydraulics. Then the bucket can finally go back on. Hoping to have that done by the end of the week. Unfortunately I have to work on the machine outside, and since Mother Nature can't seem to make up her mind what she's doing here in Indiana right now, I have to work around the chilly wet weather we are supposed to get over the next couple of days, so we'll just have to see. Oh, if anybody has a source for 1 1/4" hitch pins for a reasonable price, let me know. I've got the 7/8" ones for the tilt cylinders, but still need the ones for the boom hook up.

antfarmer2 · Apr 30, 2014

IndianaJohn said:
Well, it's alive!! I was able to drive it around under its own power this afternoon. Still have some bugs to work out, but I'm making progress. My choice in sprocket sizes seems to be pretty close. The carb needs a bit of work still, and I have a bit more work to do on the wiring. Next step is to clean out the chain cases and put in fresh hydraulic oil, then I can bolt the pump back up to the flywheel and I should have working hydraulics. Then the bucket can finally go back on. Hoping to have that done by the end of the week. Unfortunately I have to work on the machine outside, and since Mother Nature can't seem to make up her mind what she's doing here in Indiana right now, I have to work around the chilly wet weather we are supposed to get over the next couple of days, so we'll just have to see. Oh, if anybody has a source for 1 1/4" hitch pins for a reasonable price, let me know. I've got the 7/8" ones for the tilt cylinders, but still need the ones for the boom hook up.

Send the chilly wet to Texas!!!!¡!!

IndianaJohn · May 13, 2014

antfarmer2 said:
Send the chilly wet to Texas!!!!¡!!

Life interfered for a while, but it was finally able to make some more progress on my project. I finally managed to get the chain cases cleaned out, but it wasn't easy. I drove the loader up onto a set of car ramps, then jacked the rear up and blocked it level. I took a pan underneath, removed the coupling on the pipe that runs between the chain cases and drained what I could. But the pipe is not at the bottom of the cases, and is actually about 1/2-3/4 inch off the bottom. Obviously that was not going to allow me to drain everything out. So I ended up finding a spot where I could drill a hole in the bottom of the case from the top with a long gun drill bit. Then when the rest of the watery gunk drained out, I drilled the holes on both sides out to fit a 1/4" pipe tap. After tapping the holes, I then poured some old stale gas into a pump sprayer and proceeded to thoroughly wash out the inside of each case. I then left it set for a day to finish draining and dry out as much as possible. While I was waiting, I removed the strainer/filter cartridge, and replaced it with a new one from NAPA. BTW, I found it interesting that according to the parts manual I found on fleabay, there is supposed to also be a seperate hydraulic filter on this machine, besides the "strainer", however my machines does not have that, and in fact apparently never did. The manual shows the filter as being inline between the variable speed valve, and the manifold block that feeds oil to the clutches. However my loader has a pre-bent steel line running between the valve and the manifold. It obviously came that way from the factory. So I wonder if at a later point in production maybe the factory decided that the seperate filter wasn't actually needed and was deleted. Will probably never know the answer to that. Anyway, after all that I was finally able to bolt the side covers back on, install flush fitting pipe plugs in the bottom, and refill with hydraulic oil. Took me a while to finally get the pump primed up, but finally heard that "whine" that tells you the pump is doing its thing. A push on the pedal and the boom arms started raising. Movement was fairly quick too, so looks like my pump has plenty of GPM. We have hydraulics! However, now things are on hold again. I decided it was time to give the engine a bit of attention. The old Onan had sat for a couple of years before I put back to work, and of course the carb needed some work. So I tore it apart as much as possible in place, started cleaning jets and passages with carb cleaner, then reassembly. However, while re-installing the main jet (which goes in thru a plug on the side of the carb body), I managed to lose the jet off the end of the end of the screwdriver as I was trying to feed it into the hole. And you guessed it, it seems to have to vanished into thin air. My wife and I have both searched for it. I have even gone so far as to remove some of the tin from the engine looking for it. So now I have a new one on order, and am anxiously awaiting its arrival. In the mean time, guess I could start putting some fresh paint on it. My wife says "anything but that ugly green"............

antfarmer2 · May 13, 2014

IndianaJohn said:
Life interfered for a while, but it was finally able to make some more progress on my project. I finally managed to get the chain cases cleaned out, but it wasn't easy. I drove the loader up onto a set of car ramps, then jacked the rear up and blocked it level. I took a pan underneath, removed the coupling on the pipe that runs between the chain cases and drained what I could. But the pipe is not at the bottom of the cases, and is actually about 1/2-3/4 inch off the bottom. Obviously that was not going to allow me to drain everything out. So I ended up finding a spot where I could drill a hole in the bottom of the case from the top with a long gun drill bit. Then when the rest of the watery gunk drained out, I drilled the holes on both sides out to fit a 1/4" pipe tap. After tapping the holes, I then poured some old stale gas into a pump sprayer and proceeded to thoroughly wash out the inside of each case. I then left it set for a day to finish draining and dry out as much as possible. While I was waiting, I removed the strainer/filter cartridge, and replaced it with a new one from NAPA. BTW, I found it interesting that according to the parts manual I found on fleabay, there is supposed to also be a seperate hydraulic filter on this machine, besides the "strainer", however my machines does not have that, and in fact apparently never did. The manual shows the filter as being inline between the variable speed valve, and the manifold block that feeds oil to the clutches. However my loader has a pre-bent steel line running between the valve and the manifold. It obviously came that way from the factory. So I wonder if at a later point in production maybe the factory decided that the seperate filter wasn't actually needed and was deleted. Will probably never know the answer to that. Anyway, after all that I was finally able to bolt the side covers back on, install flush fitting pipe plugs in the bottom, and refill with hydraulic oil. Took me a while to finally get the pump primed up, but finally heard that "whine" that tells you the pump is doing its thing. A push on the pedal and the boom arms started raising. Movement was fairly quick too, so looks like my pump has plenty of GPM. We have hydraulics! However, now things are on hold again. I decided it was time to give the engine a bit of attention. The old Onan had sat for a couple of years before I put back to work, and of course the carb needed some work. So I tore it apart as much as possible in place, started cleaning jets and passages with carb cleaner, then reassembly. However, while re-installing the main jet (which goes in thru a plug on the side of the carb body), I managed to lose the jet off the end of the end of the screwdriver as I was trying to feed it into the hole. And you guessed it, it seems to have to vanished into thin air. My wife and I have both searched for it. I have even gone so far as to remove some of the tin from the engine looking for it. So now I have a new one on order, and am anxiously awaiting its arrival. In the mean time, guess I could start putting some fresh paint on it. My wife says "anything but that ugly green"............

Go ahead and take all of the tin off and clean no telling what is in there

IndianaJohn · May 22, 2014

antfarmer2 said:
Go ahead and take all of the tin off and clean no telling what is in there

Well, my attempts to get a new jet for the carb didn't go well. It wound up on back order, so....... I decided a couple of days ago to go ahead and remove all the sheet metal from the engine and blow everything out while I was waiting. I figured maybe I could knock the jet loose while blowing everything out. Really didn't have anything to lose at that point. So I blew out all the old grass and built up dirt. Before I buttoned everything up, I started looking around under the loader and around under the engine on the frame. I just happened to look up and right in front of me on top of one of the steel lines, nestled back against the frame, was the missing jet. !!! I could tell it had been laying there for a while as it had fresh paint on it. Somehow my wife and I had both managed to miss it. I cleaned it up with carb cleaner, very carefully reinstalled it, buttoned up the carb, reinstalled the sheet metal, and tried the engine. Runs like a champ now! So next up was coming up with a seat. I just happened to find an old "captains chair" seat out of an old van that I had sitting in the barn. Then it was just a matter of re-drilling the mounting holes in the seat mounting plate to fit the adjusters on the seat, and I had the best seat in the house on my loader. Next up was remounting the bucket and all was ready. We have been cleaning up some stuff that was piled up around the old barn, and used the loader to move some things. Worked great! Still have a few more things to do, but the old girl is at least usable now. Really pleased so far, but still haven't tried any digging yet. That will be the real test. If I can ever figure out how to post some pics here, I'll let everybody take a look.

antfarmer2 · May 22, 2014

IndianaJohn said:
Well, my attempts to get a new jet for the carb didn't go well. It wound up on back order, so....... I decided a couple of days ago to go ahead and remove all the sheet metal from the engine and blow everything out while I was waiting. I figured maybe I could knock the jet loose while blowing everything out. Really didn't have anything to lose at that point. So I blew out all the old grass and built up dirt. Before I buttoned everything up, I started looking around under the loader and around under the engine on the frame. I just happened to look up and right in front of me on top of one of the steel lines, nestled back against the frame, was the missing jet. !!! I could tell it had been laying there for a while as it had fresh paint on it. Somehow my wife and I had both managed to miss it. I cleaned it up with carb cleaner, very carefully reinstalled it, buttoned up the carb, reinstalled the sheet metal, and tried the engine. Runs like a champ now! So next up was coming up with a seat. I just happened to find an old "captains chair" seat out of an old van that I had sitting in the barn. Then it was just a matter of re-drilling the mounting holes in the seat mounting plate to fit the adjusters on the seat, and I had the best seat in the house on my loader. Next up was remounting the bucket and all was ready. We have been cleaning up some stuff that was piled up around the old barn, and used the loader to move some things. Worked great! Still have a few more things to do, but the old girl is at least usable now. Really pleased so far, but still haven't tried any digging yet. That will be the real test. If I can ever figure out how to post some pics here, I'll let everybody take a look.

Good job does your chair have a cup holder? Lol

IndianaJohn · Jun 19, 2014

antfarmer2 said:
Good job does your chair have a cup holder? Lol

Well, thought I would post another update in case anyone is still following along at home. Shortly after I got the machine running, I noticed that I was leaving a trail of hydraulic oil from somewhere underneath. A little investigation revealed that there was a leak coming from the cap on the pressure relief valve that is mounted underneath the bucket valve. At first it seemed that it was just a bad o-ring under the cap. So I took the cap off and replaced the o-ring. Still leaked. Took it apart and tried an o-ring with a bit larger cross section. Went to tighten the cap down again and it twisted off. Damn! Apparently the cap was cracked where it joined the thread part. That explained why replacing the o-ring didn't fix the leak. So as a stop gap so I could use the machine to get some work done, I welded the cap into place onto the valve body. It worked but I never had any power at the bucket rams. But, it was that way before the "repair" too. So I wound up going back to Surplus Center to a order a new Prince 2000 psi pressure relief valve to replace the old (and apparently worn out) original Greesen valve. In the mean time, I was able to find a later version of the parts manual. You may recall that I mentioned earlier in this thread that the manual showed a cartridge style "strainer" and also a spin on oil filter for the hydraulic system, while my machine only has a cartridge style filter. I had also noticed that the manual showed a single three spool Greesen valve for bucket, boom, and auxiliary functions, while my unit has two individual valves. One single spool for the bucket, and a second two spool unit for boom and auxiliary. And the first manual also didn't show a seperate pressure relief, but instead has a relief built into the spool valve. Well, the newer manual shows that the newer machines ARE differently plumbed from the older units. As I had suspected, the newer machines no longer had the spin-on filter, but only the cartridge unit. Also, the manual clearly shows the later machines having two valves, just like mine, as well as the seperate relief valve. Maybe this will help someone else figure out which manual is correct for their machine, or at least whether they have an early machine or a late one. Anyway, to get back to the story, after replacing the PRV (and another hose.....) I now have plenty of hydraulic pressure. In fact, if I only have engine running at a fast idle, when I curl the bucket back to its stops, it will kill the engine! Before, I could raise more weight with the boom cylinders than I could by curling the bucket. I'm guessing that was simply because of the larger cylinders on the boom. I fully expect now that the bucket should be able to lift much more than it could before. I know on my tractor, if I can't lift something with the loader boom itself, I can normally curl the bucket back and be able to get it off the ground. Just the opposite of what I've had with this machine. I'm hoping that with the much improved pressure, I'll see similar behavior to my tractor now. However, I just got the new valve on yesterday, and we've had constant storms since, so I'll have to wait for Mother Nature to cooperate before I'll know for sure. Next up, building a ROPS for it.......

antfarmer2 · Jun 20, 2014

IndianaJohn said:
Well, thought I would post another update in case anyone is still following along at home. Shortly after I got the machine running, I noticed that I was leaving a trail of hydraulic oil from somewhere underneath. A little investigation revealed that there was a leak coming from the cap on the pressure relief valve that is mounted underneath the bucket valve. At first it seemed that it was just a bad o-ring under the cap. So I took the cap off and replaced the o-ring. Still leaked. Took it apart and tried an o-ring with a bit larger cross section. Went to tighten the cap down again and it twisted off. Damn! Apparently the cap was cracked where it joined the thread part. That explained why replacing the o-ring didn't fix the leak. So as a stop gap so I could use the machine to get some work done, I welded the cap into place onto the valve body. It worked but I never had any power at the bucket rams. But, it was that way before the "repair" too. So I wound up going back to Surplus Center to a order a new Prince 2000 psi pressure relief valve to replace the old (and apparently worn out) original Greesen valve. In the mean time, I was able to find a later version of the parts manual. You may recall that I mentioned earlier in this thread that the manual showed a cartridge style "strainer" and also a spin on oil filter for the hydraulic system, while my machine only has a cartridge style filter. I had also noticed that the manual showed a single three spool Greesen valve for bucket, boom, and auxiliary functions, while my unit has two individual valves. One single spool for the bucket, and a second two spool unit for boom and auxiliary. And the first manual also didn't show a seperate pressure relief, but instead has a relief built into the spool valve. Well, the newer manual shows that the newer machines ARE differently plumbed from the older units. As I had suspected, the newer machines no longer had the spin-on filter, but only the cartridge unit. Also, the manual clearly shows the later machines having two valves, just like mine, as well as the seperate relief valve. Maybe this will help someone else figure out which manual is correct for their machine, or at least whether they have an early machine or a late one. Anyway, to get back to the story, after replacing the PRV (and another hose.....) I now have plenty of hydraulic pressure. In fact, if I only have engine running at a fast idle, when I curl the bucket back to its stops, it will kill the engine! Before, I could raise more weight with the boom cylinders than I could by curling the bucket. I'm guessing that was simply because of the larger cylinders on the boom. I fully expect now that the bucket should be able to lift much more than it could before. I know on my tractor, if I can't lift something with the loader boom itself, I can normally curl the bucket back and be able to get it off the ground. Just the opposite of what I've had with this machine. I'm hoping that with the much improved pressure, I'll see similar behavior to my tractor now. However, I just got the new valve on yesterday, and we've had constant storms since, so I'll have to wait for Mother Nature to cooperate before I'll know for sure. Next up, building a ROPS for it.......

Sounds like your having fun send me the rain it's hard to pick tick's off my catfish

IndianaJohn · Jun 23, 2014

antfarmer2 said:
Sounds like your having fun send me the rain it's hard to pick tick's off my catfish

Well, still getting rain and storms almost every day, plus having to do work on my wife's house so we can put it up for sale. So still haven't had a chance to try the loader out yet, and the weather doesn't look too promising for the next several days. The weatherman says that we are stuck in a "ring of fire" pattern and pop up storms are par for the course. Anyway, in my last post I mentioned that there were two different version operator/service and parts manuals available for the 1000 series loaders, depending on whether it is a early or late version of the machine. So far, I have not been able to determine a serial number cut-off between the two machine versions. The only way to tell which version manual you need, is whether the machine has two valves and no spin on hydraulic filter, or a single valve and the filter. The early manuals have a yellowish cover with a drawing of the machine. They only cover the units with a single valve and the spin on filter. The later manuals have an off-white cover with two pale green boxes. A large one to the upper right saying "the Mustang, 1000 LOADER, Parts Manual", and a smaller one to the lower left saying "Catalog 4869OL, Revised 15 September 1969". The top left has a logo saying, " the Owatonna Way is best.". These cover both the older and newer machines. Once I get the newer operator manual, I'll be selling my early manuals. Hopefully this info may help someone else in the future.

New member with OMC mustang basket case

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