l785 wont start

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nick_lindquist

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Nov 11, 2013
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1991 l785 ford 3 cyl diesel cranks but wont start, was told it ran out of fuel. bled out the injectors and injector pump. seems to fire a litttle out of center cylinder and nothing out of the outer cylinders. swapped the injectors around to see if it changed and no difference. installed electric fuel pump in front of filter assembly and no change. pretty sure intake preheater is not working.
 

mfyock

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If the intake heater isn't working you need to get that working. Also, having it in a warm area will help to. Make sure your battery is charged up, and is working well. Any diesel that is running well can be hard starting if the battery doesn't have enough to spin the engine fast. Bleed all the lines like you did before. I then usually give a little shot of ether to the engine. That often gets the engine to run for a moment which seams to help work the air out. I am not sure why it works, but it has worked for me on numerous occasions.
 

frogfarmer

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Those motors are almost bullet proof. They are hard to bleed after being run dry. I change the filters any time one runs dry due to the trash that floats in the tank is now in the fuel system. Bleed the filter, bleed the pump (may be two bleeders), then the injector lines. When you bleed the injector lines place the throttle in the full position. A strong batt is a must and a helper is also recommended. When the lines begin to pulse fuel strongly tighten the fitting. It should run on two cylinders and then three when the final line is tightened. I do not recommend either. As far as the pre-heater they dont make a big difference with these engines. Most of them dont work or bleed fuel all the time.
 

frogfarmer

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Also if someone already tried the ether trick damage may have been done to the pistons or cylinders and compression is now the problem. I have repaired engines where the ring lands on the pistons were sheared off by the explosion of the ether in a dry cylinder. Again I do not recommend ether.
 

Tazza

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Also if someone already tried the ether trick damage may have been done to the pistons or cylinders and compression is now the problem. I have repaired engines where the ring lands on the pistons were sheared off by the explosion of the ether in a dry cylinder. Again I do not recommend ether.
Ether is hard on engines, i remember when i tried it once, it made a horrible clang! Others recommend using WD40 in the air intake.
I actually was cleaning the inlet ports of an engine with WD40, It wasn't hooked up to any fuel and spun it over, it started running, but shut down pretty fast though.
 
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nick_lindquist

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Also if someone already tried the ether trick damage may have been done to the pistons or cylinders and compression is now the problem. I have repaired engines where the ring lands on the pistons were sheared off by the explosion of the ether in a dry cylinder. Again I do not recommend ether.
thanks for the tips, going out there to try it again. we have tried bleeding it numerous times with the same outcome. just seems like the center cylinder is the only one wanting to fire. i have heard they are hard to bleed out but this seems ridiculous. we didnt try holding the throttle wide open and actually wasnt even sure where to put the throttle, so we will try that. do you have any other tips to try? it is sitting in the owners back yard and its an hour drive one way to get there. how can we tell if the injector pump is working correctly?
 

frogfarmer

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thanks for the tips, going out there to try it again. we have tried bleeding it numerous times with the same outcome. just seems like the center cylinder is the only one wanting to fire. i have heard they are hard to bleed out but this seems ridiculous. we didnt try holding the throttle wide open and actually wasnt even sure where to put the throttle, so we will try that. do you have any other tips to try? it is sitting in the owners back yard and its an hour drive one way to get there. how can we tell if the injector pump is working correctly?
Injector pop off pressure as well as pump volumes cant be checked easily if at all on a machine in the field. If the lines will pulse fuel it likely will start if compression is good. The WD40 is not bad advise and might help just dont foul the cylinder with too much. Make sure you have a strong battery and the cranking RPM is adequate. I usually hook my cables to one of the trucks with dual batts when I have to bleed one out. They can be very hard to bleed especially if the system is worn but they can run well past the 10,000hr mark.
 

Brett1971

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Injector pop off pressure as well as pump volumes cant be checked easily if at all on a machine in the field. If the lines will pulse fuel it likely will start if compression is good. The WD40 is not bad advise and might help just dont foul the cylinder with too much. Make sure you have a strong battery and the cranking RPM is adequate. I usually hook my cables to one of the trucks with dual batts when I have to bleed one out. They can be very hard to bleed especially if the system is worn but they can run well past the 10,000hr mark.
Hi, I apologize for hijacking this thread but I have a very similar question about an LX565. I changed the fuel filter without filling it first (I know, I'm not a diesel guy but I know better now) and now I can't get it to start. I've bled it by cracking the lines at the injectors but it's still no-go. I have fuel flow up to the mech fuel pump but nothing after. I've even taken a line completely loose at the mech pump and nothing comes out. Suggestions? and thank you in advance! Brett
 

Tazza

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Hi, I apologize for hijacking this thread but I have a very similar question about an LX565. I changed the fuel filter without filling it first (I know, I'm not a diesel guy but I know better now) and now I can't get it to start. I've bled it by cracking the lines at the injectors but it's still no-go. I have fuel flow up to the mech fuel pump but nothing after. I've even taken a line completely loose at the mech pump and nothing comes out. Suggestions? and thank you in advance! Brett
Is there a manual fuel pump lever? even install a hand primer bulb. Bobcat has one if these on pretty much all their diesel engines.
 

jerry

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Is there a manual fuel pump lever? even install a hand primer bulb. Bobcat has one if these on pretty much all their diesel engines.
On the 565 you should not have to prime it. Just turn the key on and wait a few minutes for the electric pump to refill everything and then start. That is in the operators manual.
 

jerry

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On the 565 you should not have to prime it. Just turn the key on and wait a few minutes for the electric pump to refill everything and then start. That is in the operators manual.
However if it has been run out of fuel put the service /run switch in the service position loosen the bleed screw at the pump, switch to the run position till a full stream of fuel flows tighten screw and start.
 

jerry

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However if it has been run out of fuel put the service /run switch in the service position loosen the bleed screw at the pump, switch to the run position till a full stream of fuel flows tighten screw and start.
In the drawing the bleed screw is behind the second fuel line from rear of machine on the pump.
If this doesnt work maybe a moderator can move this to a seperate thread.
 

Brett1971

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In the drawing the bleed screw is behind the second fuel line from rear of machine on the pump.
If this doesnt work maybe a moderator can move this to a seperate thread.
Thanks for the suggestions guys! I tried them and still no go. I get a steady stream at the bleed screw but still nothing at the injectors. I have verified that the fuel shutoff solenoid is working (removed it from pump, held it to block and turned on the key, the solenoid retracted). My battery is weak but I've got cables going to my truck to assist with cranking; could that be part of the issue? How long should it have to be cranked to pump all the air out of the mech pump? Brett
 

jerry

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Thanks for the suggestions guys! I tried them and still no go. I get a steady stream at the bleed screw but still nothing at the injectors. I have verified that the fuel shutoff solenoid is working (removed it from pump, held it to block and turned on the key, the solenoid retracted). My battery is weak but I've got cables going to my truck to assist with cranking; could that be part of the issue? How long should it have to be cranked to pump all the air out of the mech pump? Brett
But I think those shutoff solenoids have two positions, it may retract with the key in the run position but does it when in the start position? Most move with a higher voltage to start and then a lower one to hold it in the run position. On my 665 when I change the filter it starts right up after.
 

jerry

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But I think those shutoff solenoids have two positions, it may retract with the key in the run position but does it when in the start position? Most move with a higher voltage to start and then a lower one to hold it in the run position. On my 665 when I change the filter it starts right up after.
It just seems as though it would be more likely a solenoid not working than air. Check and see if Mike10 has a e-mail and ask him.
 

frogfarmer

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Thanks for the suggestions guys! I tried them and still no go. I get a steady stream at the bleed screw but still nothing at the injectors. I have verified that the fuel shutoff solenoid is working (removed it from pump, held it to block and turned on the key, the solenoid retracted). My battery is weak but I've got cables going to my truck to assist with cranking; could that be part of the issue? How long should it have to be cranked to pump all the air out of the mech pump? Brett
The fuel solenoid is a one position unit that only shuts the pump down. The governor if adjusted improperly will not allow fuel flow in the slowest setting of the throttle. When bleeding the system the throttle should be in the full position. With the fuel pump running and the injector lines removed the injection pump will allow fuel to spill through as the crank is turned very slowly. It is not uncommon for these motors to start even after they have been run dry without opening any lines due to the way they operate. In some cases the injection pumps can be scored by the lack of fuel but it is not the norm. Also the shut-off solenoids have been known to fail. If the solenoid fails the rack will not open to allow fuel to the injectors.
 

jerry

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The fuel solenoid is a one position unit that only shuts the pump down. The governor if adjusted improperly will not allow fuel flow in the slowest setting of the throttle. When bleeding the system the throttle should be in the full position. With the fuel pump running and the injector lines removed the injection pump will allow fuel to spill through as the crank is turned very slowly. It is not uncommon for these motors to start even after they have been run dry without opening any lines due to the way they operate. In some cases the injection pumps can be scored by the lack of fuel but it is not the norm. Also the shut-off solenoids have been known to fail. If the solenoid fails the rack will not open to allow fuel to the injectors.
Guess that was stated wrong, I know it only has one position but some have a stronger current to pull and less to hold it so it could be that the pull part which is active only when the key is on the start position may be bad but the hold part may still work. I would think you should try the solenoid as you did but on the start position also to see if it works then.
 

frogfarmer

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Guess that was stated wrong, I know it only has one position but some have a stronger current to pull and less to hold it so it could be that the pull part which is active only when the key is on the start position may be bad but the hold part may still work. I would think you should try the solenoid as you did but on the start position also to see if it works then.
The 565 has an N844 Shibaura and unlike the Kubota does not have two coils in the fuel solenoid. Current from the board opens the solenoid during all normal operation and a spring in the solenoid itself closes the rack on the injection pump when there is no current. The solenoid has one blade terminal. If the board is bad or the system has a fault the solenoid may not receive any current and no fuel. With the solenoid removed the rack is free to move with input from the governor. The solenoids just unscrew from the block. These are great little engines and very reliable but when they break they are very expensive.
 

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