Gehl 2500 with a Kohler / new member

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mafabco

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Joined
Oct 24, 2012
Messages
5
Hello, new member here from North central Iowa. I just purchased a Gehl 2500 skid steer and the Onan engine was junk. I just replaced it with a Kohler CH730 25 hp V twin. Has anyone else used this engine in this loader? If so, how do you like it? I just got it running yesterday, need to finish the throttle / choke cables and some wiring. Seams to be a good little loader. This is my first skid loader, planning on using to clean up my acreage and to clean up debris after cutting down trees. Jason
 

Tazza

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Dec 7, 2004
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Not sure it's the exact same model, but my dad has a wood chipper with a Kohler 25hp V twin, great powerful engine. It's a bit hard starting, i need to work out why that is, i think it's a fuel supply issue. Other than that, it sure is powerful.
 

joer

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Oct 1, 2012
Messages
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I haven't had to repower yet .... What size of motor did it have? I might be interested in a junk motor for parts if its the right one. What year is the loader? I've been running a 72, and have done a lot of dirt moving and its held up pretty well. Just can't be afraid to get covered in grease and oil and of course fabricate! Keep the Chains tight! If they start to slip tighten both of em, because a drive gear is a Pain in the ass to replace.
 
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mafabco

Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2012
Messages
5
I haven't had to repower yet .... What size of motor did it have? I might be interested in a junk motor for parts if its the right one. What year is the loader? I've been running a 72, and have done a lot of dirt moving and its held up pretty well. Just can't be afraid to get covered in grease and oil and of course fabricate! Keep the Chains tight! If they start to slip tighten both of em, because a drive gear is a Pain in the ass to replace.
The original engine was an Onan NHC. 22.5 HP at 3000 rpm (25 hp at 3600). There is a guy named Bob in Hastings, MN ((651)-437-2826) that is very knowledgeable when it comes to Onan engines. He has lots ot new and used parts and rebuilt engines too. He was very helpful to me when I was researching the Onan and trying to decide to repair or replace. Ultimately I chose the Kohler because I got the deal of the century on it. I bought it much cheaper than rebuilding the Onan. I have no use for my Onan so I am sending it to Bob for free as he spent lots of time visiting with me and I owe him at least the parts engine. I have a Kohler CH730-0018 engine. It has a 1-7/16" diameter crank shaft, same as the Onan, so my drive pully and coupler mounted right on. I had to build a motor mount and had to raise the engine about 3 inches to get the crank center line at the same height as the Onan. It was a very easy switch. Jason
 

SkidRoe

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Dec 10, 2009
Messages
1,885
The original engine was an Onan NHC. 22.5 HP at 3000 rpm (25 hp at 3600). There is a guy named Bob in Hastings, MN ((651)-437-2826) that is very knowledgeable when it comes to Onan engines. He has lots ot new and used parts and rebuilt engines too. He was very helpful to me when I was researching the Onan and trying to decide to repair or replace. Ultimately I chose the Kohler because I got the deal of the century on it. I bought it much cheaper than rebuilding the Onan. I have no use for my Onan so I am sending it to Bob for free as he spent lots of time visiting with me and I owe him at least the parts engine. I have a Kohler CH730-0018 engine. It has a 1-7/16" diameter crank shaft, same as the Onan, so my drive pully and coupler mounted right on. I had to build a motor mount and had to raise the engine about 3 inches to get the crank center line at the same height as the Onan. It was a very easy switch. Jason
Being a re-power freak, I would love to see some pictures of this conversion.
Here is the link to the post that explains the posting of pictures:
http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=2445
Thanks!!
 
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mafabco

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Joined
Oct 24, 2012
Messages
5
Being a re-power freak, I would love to see some pictures of this conversion.
Here is the link to the post that explains the posting of pictures:
http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=2445
Thanks!!
I will try to get some pictures taken this weekend. Today I raised the cage 4 inches and extended the control levers up 6 inches. I am very tall and my head would hit the roof and my legs interfered with the T handles. I noticed today that the LH drive chain is slipping. Didn't do it with the old engine, not enough power. So tomorrow will be chain adjustment and working on the electrics. Right now I have to use the key and throttle controls on the engine. I just got my new choke and throttle cable/controls. I have the engine all wired up with a 4 prong plug to connect with the wiring harness I am making for the kill switch, starter switch and low oil pressure light. Jason
 

joer

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Joined
Oct 1, 2012
Messages
23
I will try to get some pictures taken this weekend. Today I raised the cage 4 inches and extended the control levers up 6 inches. I am very tall and my head would hit the roof and my legs interfered with the T handles. I noticed today that the LH drive chain is slipping. Didn't do it with the old engine, not enough power. So tomorrow will be chain adjustment and working on the electrics. Right now I have to use the key and throttle controls on the engine. I just got my new choke and throttle cable/controls. I have the engine all wired up with a 4 prong plug to connect with the wiring harness I am making for the kill switch, starter switch and low oil pressure light. Jason
Its a good investment on these to just go out and buy a new #60 roller chain and throw it on. Just to be safe. I did just about everything possible to try to get my chains not to slip and they keep telling me that I should consider replacing the Drive gear. Which is just about 300 per side... Turns out bad or weak bearings in either wheel, or the Tensioner will cause the chain to slip also, spent a little time and a few bucks and no more chain slipping.
 

SkidRoe

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Dec 10, 2009
Messages
1,885
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Is it the drive gear or the drive sprocket that needs replacing? If it's the sprocket, we often machine the old sprocket off of the hub, especially if it is an odd-ball hub with a spline or ??, and then weld on a new replacement sprocket ring. Do you know somebody with a lathe?
 

joer

Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2012
Messages
23
Is it the drive gear or the drive sprocket that needs replacing? If it's the sprocket, we often machine the old sprocket off of the hub, especially if it is an odd-ball hub with a spline or ??, and then weld on a new replacement sprocket ring. Do you know somebody with a lathe?
Mine tured out not to be either, just bearings allowing enough slack to let the chain slip, but the Gear on mine is actually held in place by a castle nut and a cotter pin... Downside is that you'll never get the sproket off the shaft unless you pull the transmission on that side. Just not enough room.
 

SkidRoe

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Dec 10, 2009
Messages
1,885
Mine tured out not to be either, just bearings allowing enough slack to let the chain slip, but the Gear on mine is actually held in place by a castle nut and a cotter pin... Downside is that you'll never get the sproket off the shaft unless you pull the transmission on that side. Just not enough room.
That's not so bad. Do the chains run in oil? It's hard to tell from looking at the parts book whether the cases are sealed or not.
 

mafabco2

Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2012
Messages
12
That's not so bad. Do the chains run in oil? It's hard to tell from looking at the parts book whether the cases are sealed or not.
No, the chain cases are not sealed and the chains do not run in Oil. Just lubed with a shot of chain lube now and then. This week I replaced my chains, tightened and greased all the bearings and reworked one of the idler sprocket shafts. The shaft was all chewed up so I welded it up and used a lathe to turn it back down. Came out great. It drives great, everything is working as it should in the drive, but I am having trouble with the loader. I'm going to rebuild the cylinders and tear apart the hydraulic pump and see how it looks.
 

SkidRoe

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Joined
Dec 10, 2009
Messages
1,885
No, the chain cases are not sealed and the chains do not run in Oil. Just lubed with a shot of chain lube now and then. This week I replaced my chains, tightened and greased all the bearings and reworked one of the idler sprocket shafts. The shaft was all chewed up so I welded it up and used a lathe to turn it back down. Came out great. It drives great, everything is working as it should in the drive, but I am having trouble with the loader. I'm going to rebuild the cylinders and tear apart the hydraulic pump and see how it looks.
Saw the pictures of your machine. That's a pretty clean repower. Well done. I don't know about your experience, but I have found the V-twin to have a lot more torque than the flat twin. I am really pleased with the results that I achieved, and I imagine you must be too.
 

mafabco2

Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2012
Messages
12
Saw the pictures of your machine. That's a pretty clean repower. Well done. I don't know about your experience, but I have found the V-twin to have a lot more torque than the flat twin. I am really pleased with the results that I achieved, and I imagine you must be too.
So far so good as far as the repower. I just made my new overhead control panel and wiring harness this afternoon. Install tomorrow I hope. Still having problems with the hydraulic system. The previous owner had installed a new 2 spool valve. I put the original back in and still having the same trouble. I believe the hydraulic pump is weak. I ordered a new pump tonight, hopefully that will fix it. One thing I may do is replace the drive sprocket with one with fewer teeth. The drive could use a little more low end power and it goes faster than it needs to. A project for next summer.
 

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