G'Day Friends First time poster long time reader. I am totally new to skid steer machines and on a steep learning curve, being this my first machine. I'm an Engineer /builder who has scaled back to just doing maintenance jobs, but have found myself lately building cnc machines, not sure how that happened? Well needless to say it was not bought for work purposes. The main reason I purchased the little skid steer was to simply help me move things around the yard and get items on and off my little truck. I looked at a manual side hoist but for the 2k that they were asking was just a rip off, and a forklift is just not practical in my yard, so here I am. I plan to make a set of small pallet forks for the front, now before all the comments come flowing in about using this size machine for this purpose, I do realize a larger machine would be so much better, but I'm governed by two factors. Firstly is trailering the unit, I wanted to keep the GVM of bobcat and trailer under the 2t mark, if over that things become complicated and extremely expensive, and probably not worth it to me. The other thing at present there is a rather large boat being rebuilt in the middle of my yard and access around it is very limited indeed. Now the largest item that I would be attempting to move off the truck would be a 44gal drum full of Veg oil, approx 200kg or 440lb, other things would be fridges, washing machines, generator compressor, basically items to large or awkward to be done by one person. When I started looking I was either after a 463, S70 and even looking at a Toyota 4SDK4, but I found a little 453 with only 740 hours on it on an auction and before I new it I owned it. Now being totally green and more keen than anything has already taught me a few little lessons with this machine, don't try and drive onto a trailer without using proper ramps and forward is not the right way to go unless you want a little excitement! Now I'm interested in hearing of other don't s that may help me stay a little dryer as well. A few questions, I have read that foam filing tyres may help with stability and loading capacity, is it worth it, or will they make the machine more tippy when its used normally? What would be say the approx max incline you would consider traveling up forward , and in reverse also. I am planning to service the unit, change all the filters and fluids, would you also change all the hydraulic fluid/lube as well? and if so what be the choice fluid/lube to use? Can you use Marine triple guard grease for the pinion,s or is there a special type of grease to use? I wanted to upload some pics but cannot find how to do that. Thanks for reading, Cheers Katoh
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There is no problem making forks. Just try and keep the weight down as much as possible, every extra kg you add up front will lower what you can lift.
For what angles you can handle depends on the terrain too, bumpy is not good at all, if it's steep, go backwards. I'ts really just one of those things you will pick up.
I personally use molly grease, it's messy, but it's really good. It's a good idea to change the filters too. You dont know what the previous owner has or has not done.
For what angles you can handle depends on the terrain too, bumpy is not good at all, if it's steep, go backwards. I'ts really just one of those things you will pick up.
I personally use molly grease, it's messy, but it's really good. It's a good idea to change the filters too. You dont know what the previous owner has or has not done.
Thank's for the input Tazza. The reason I wanted to make the forks was to keep the initial weight down, no use using forks that can handle 4000kg but weigh 300kg, I assume my forks should be able to handle a 1000kg but weigh maybe 1/2 or even less then the 4 in 1 bucket it has. Yes I found out about the bumpy bit too, to get to my top gardens is a quick trip round the fence through the bush and if you hit a rock as big as your fist and it becomes unnerving. Lucky I'm not a speed freak and take it slow. Now I wouldn't mind at all going up in reverse, but how the hell can you see were you are going? Can you put mirrors on these things or is that just unheard of. The molly grease sounds good, and I should of added changing all filters was always part of the equation. So changing the hydraulic fluid is a good idea? If so Ill try and work out were to drain it from, will the unit need bleeding then after refilling? One other aspect I will add to my post,is, I'm not the smallest bloke on this planet and yes the 453 is a little cosey but fine. They have put the opening off the 4 in 1 bucket control on the right lever controlled by moving it to port(left) side, well my legs seem to get in the way an I find myself trying to move my whole body to get it to work, is there a better system? Cheers Katoh
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I use my 453 to move a lot of stuff. I have a set of utility forks and when I need a little longer reach I have 2" pipe extentions.
You'll likely need some kind of counterweight for the rear of the machine if you start lifting heavy stuff. I built a bolt on bracket that I can stack 50lb weights in as needed.
One of my most recent lifts was this saw. The book says it weighs 770 lbs. I think I had three weghts on the back.
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Posting pictures requires that the image be hosted somewhere on the internet. Any of the free picture hosting sites will work. I use Photobucket. Once the image is uploaded somewhere just right click/copy in the imgae and then right click/paste in the post.
Here's the hydraulic filter and oil change instuctions.
Most mount mirrors out on the boom arms, I have them there and a rear view camera , still a blind spot now and then though. For use around home it's almost neccessary so you don't back over the dog or grandchildren or even a occasional salesman. People will walk up directly behind the machine if you are going forward and never think that you may suddenly reverse.
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I tried putting mirrors on mine but I spend too much time in the woods hauling logs for firewood and they kept getting knocked off so I gave up on them. After some practice you'll get used to backing up without destroying too much stuff. When you're lifting large items you really need a extra set of eyes around because you don't have the same sightlines as you do on a fork lift.
Gentlemen Thank you so much for the great information, I have already started plannings certain things from your recommendations. With the counter weights on the rear what would be your educated guess as to how much I would need to lift a 44 gal drum say 450lb's? I will look into Photobucket I think there is an Aussie version too, and Ill post some pics. I have got my forks planned out, and actually I might even start a new thread with details and photos of the fork,s being made. Cheers Katoh
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The 453 is rated to lift 700lbs so you may not need any couterweight for the drum but it depends on how far away from the attachment plate it is on the forks. If you can get it right up next the plate it should lift it no problem.
I know with counterweights they will lift at least 1200lbs because I've did it.
G'Day Gentlemen Thought I would add a couple of quick pics. but still having problems with it, does not want to paste onto the post? Just thinking about the rear counter weight's, couldn't I use the the tow bar hitch to put in a bar the full length to body with a couple of stabilizer bars, use a round rod welded vertically from that the same size as weightlifters weights and use those? If that makes any sense? Today saw a little problem occur, I removed the bucket from the front to measure up to build the fork attachment, when I went to switch off the machine it would not. The only way I could shut down the motor was too turn off the fuel and let it starve, any ideas there? Sorry about the last post for some reason wouldn't even pick up my text, had to switch off editor. Cheers Katoh
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I had the same problem with mine not shutting off a while back and it turned out to be a broken terminal on the shut down timer. See this post http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=27908
The first place I'd look is at the connection to the timer and then the connection to the solenoid. You can jumper 12v+ to the solenoid to verify its good. The fuel shut down solenoid is on the back side of the engine and it pulls to shut off the fuel for a short time when you turn off the key. You can manually pull it back to shut it down if you need to use it until you figure out the problem.
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OldMachinist
You Sir are a Gentlemen and a Scholar!
You led me straight to the point where I believe I have found the problem to my non engine turn off! I believe one of the spade terminals is corroded to the point were there was no contact happening, and the relay simply not engaging. I found finally how to post a photo, after a lot of reading and trying to work out what was not working, I came across a post that states Firefox users will have this problem and this is the work around.
Thanks to all Cheers Katoh
You Sir are a Gentlemen and a Scholar!
You led me straight to the point where I believe I have found the problem to my non engine turn off! I believe one of the spade terminals is corroded to the point were there was no contact happening, and the relay simply not engaging. I found finally how to post a photo, after a lot of reading and trying to work out what was not working, I came across a post that states Firefox users will have this problem and this is the work around.
Thanks to all Cheers Katoh
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That relay/timer is in a place that gets packed with leaves and crud which hold moisture and the terminals corrode.
Gentlemen
My non turning off woes continue, I replaced the corroded and broken spade connector, well actually I replaced all of them. Crimped and soldered, can't see a problem there, the solenoid works OK so must be further down the line. Can somebody confirm my wiring is in the correct position as shown in the photo, and that when the key is on the on position both Orange and white wires are hot(live) and when on the off position all wires are dead. Both black and white/black seem to be negative(earth).
Cheers Again Katoh
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Timer terminals should be numbered.
#1 White/Black to shut off solenoid
#2 Black ground
#3 Orange 12+ from keyed switch
#4 White/Black from 25 amp fuel solenoid fuse. Should have 12+ always
Sounds like the wire to the fuse is grounded somewhere. Fuse may also be blown.
I've uploaded the wiring diagram in these files.
http://www.mediafire.com/view/?blwf2dllqe19q0k
http://www.mediafire.com/view/?81enawe99155eqf
Once again MANY MANY thanks, your information led me too the right direction. Still after a full afternoon of trying to get things to work, I could not. Had me absolutely stumped why the white wire metered 12v but would not light up a test lamp, then suddenly would. Connect it and nothing but still metered 12v. I tried to find the fuse for the wire but failed, so I checked every fuse connection etc, still have the same thing happen. finally out of frustration I decided theres only one way to get to the bottom of this and thats to chase the the wire back. About 1 foot into the wiring harness the culprit was found, an overly tight cable tie had rubbed through the insulation and a mass of green corroded copper was exposed, you can just make it out in the photo.
My relay/timer has no pin numbers on it, would you have any ideas to numbering the pins as shown below
Cheers Kati
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I'll pull my timer/relay out later today and let you know.
