After fighting with the Shibaura 2.1 litre engine it's obvious a change is needed. I purchased a Yanmar 4TNE86 today and will be changing them over. It's a minor HP gain going to the Yanmar but major gains in other ways such as getting parts and better cold starting. There are a lot of differences between the engines but yet some similarities. One change will be the automatic fuel shutoff. I'll have to wire that up. Mounting the engine is different, but similar so I just need to drill a couple holes for that. The radiator will be easier to mount now as the Yanmar is slighlty shorter overall. The biggest issue will be the coupler. The Shibaura has an 11 1/8" diameter plate that mounts to the flywheel while the Yanmar needs a 12" plate. One choice is to weld a cut down flywheel I have here to the plate and drill holes in it to match the Yanmar bolt pattern. Also the Yanmar has pins in it, can those be removed? Not sure what purpose they serve. I think there are 8 pins. Well more to come as this changeover progresses. First though I need to take a trip to TN and pick up this new engine! RJS
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SkidRoe
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Hi RJSStamps,
Sounds like your project is coming together. Post lots of pictures!! Look forward to see you progress.
Cheers,
SR
Sounds like your project is coming together. Post lots of pictures!! Look forward to see you progress.
Cheers,
SR
Thanks SkidRoe, it would be going a lot better if I could get down to TN and bring the engine back. Tazza, Yeah not sure whats up with those pins, they are large and long and there are 8 of them. They are about an inch and a half closer to the crank than the bolts that hold the coupler to the flywheel. I'm trying to decide whether it's best $$ wise to just add a couple inches to the coupler or go with a larger piece altogether with the coupler. Someone with a plasma cutter could cut this u-joint off the plate and weld it to another thats the right diameter. The original engine uses 11 1/4 while the Yanmar is 12 inches. So I'd need an inch and a half or so added to the present coupler plate. But would adding it to the present plate stand up to the use and torque? RJS
If what i have in my head is what you mean, i can't see why adding more material would be an issue. There really should just be constant torque on the flywheel so it should't be a weak point for it to fail later on.
If the plate is mild steel it should be fine, cast iron, i wouldn't trust welding. Even with nickel rods.
Is there any way to machine an adaptor and bolt it to the fly wheel? Or would that move the engine too far back?
Well I am in luck! Turns out the guy gave me the diameter of the bellhousing and not the flywheel, which just happens to be the same as my couplers diameter. I left the Indy area last night (ok this morning early) at 2am and got back home with the new motor at 8pm after getting detoured to change a tire after she got stranded so I got home after dark and during a downpour. The engine is nice and dry in my Jeep Cherokee. Fun drive with 400 lbs back there! The Yanmar is a much lighter engine but same displacement. I could tell it was lighter driving home. Anyway I just need to see if these 6 holes line up, if not then drill new holes and bolt it up! The new motor should line up with 2 or three of the present possible engine mount holes in the machine. So I may have to add one hole to get the four mounts. After that, wire up the starter and solenoid and not that I need it now but the air intake heater. Wire the alternator and find a belt that fits it all. After that it's build the radiator support, mount it and hook up the hoses, put coolant an water in it and start it up! Seems simple enough
Now one question arises, do these use a thermostat? If so whats a good temp to use? The old engine didn't have one and this doesn't appear to either. Oh, need two hoses, one for the air intake and one of those flexible exhaust hoses for the exhaust to the muffler. RJSWell holes dont line up so now the flywheel and coupler are at a local machine shop. They will take the pins out or cut them and then make some new holes. about $100 for this. Now I am trying to figure out the alternator brackets and radiator mounts. The upper radiator bracket will work with no modification! RJSWell I am in luck! Turns out the guy gave me the diameter of the bellhousing and not the flywheel, which just happens to be the same as my couplers diameter. I left the Indy area last night (ok this morning early) at 2am and got back home with the new motor at 8pm after getting detoured to change a tire after she got stranded so I got home after dark and during a downpour. The engine is nice and dry in my Jeep Cherokee. Fun drive with 400 lbs back there! The Yanmar is a much lighter engine but same displacement. I could tell it was lighter driving home. Anyway I just need to see if these 6 holes line up, if not then drill new holes and bolt it up! The new motor should line up with 2 or three of the present possible engine mount holes in the machine. So I may have to add one hole to get the four mounts. After that, wire up the starter and solenoid and not that I need it now but the air intake heater. Wire the alternator and find a belt that fits it all. After that it's build the radiator support, mount it and hook up the hoses, put coolant an water in it and start it up! Seems simple enough
$100 at a machine shop seems pretty good to me.
You will be left with all the fiddly things to get right. It just takes some thought and tweaking to get right.
Yeah, worked on alternator brackets all day today. Not liking what I ended up with so I'm going to change it tomorrow. The real issues are the alternator bracket and radiator brackets. I did find though the original upper radiator bracket will work fine with no changes. I may end up making 3 mounts though for the engine. It needs to be a bit hogher than I thought it would. I also need to do something with the rubber feet, but I will figure this stuff out tomorrow. The lower radiator mounts will be fun, each sides different but has to end up the same length and hieght. That will have to wait until the engines in and mounted up properly. RJS
skidsteer.ca
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Once you have the pumps bolted up to the bellhousing you will be able to see just where the engine nneds to sit. Hopefully none of the minor details will be too hard to work out, but we're are here to help.
Please try to get some digital pics and upload them to photobucket (or similar online hosting site) so you can post them here. We all want to see your progress.
Ken
it may be a few days before anything gets done. Were expecting rain the 3 or 4 days and I am stuck working on it outside. The machine shop may not be done with the part till Saturday. Small shop but they keep busy. I am heading out now to work on the alternator brackets some more. I do have one thing to figure out that I forgot about. The original engine had 3 fuel lines going to it, this one just 2. I have to figure out which is the return line on the original. They had an odd setup on here and I do not think it was right. Fuel from the tank should go to the filter then the engine, but thats not how it was. RJS
Well not being as tired as I was yesterday I went out pulled 2 of my brackets off the alternator and 15 minutes later was done! The alternator is now mounted so it will work and be adjustable in two places not just one. All I need to do on it now is buy one bolt and cut one bracket down and tighten it up. I also figured out exactly how I am doing the lower radiator mount. 2 problems remain. One going from 1 1/8 inch radiator hose at the water pump to 1 1/2 inch at the radiator. That could get interesting. The other is I need a different throttle linkage on te motor. It has a ball mount while the rod on the machine uses a small bolt into a block on the rod. The rod is not threaded and the blocks adjustable with set screws on ech side. The rods plenty long enough but not sure how I am going to make that work! Also, should there be a return spring on the throttle? None on it and not sure if it should have one one or not. I may ot have to lengthen any of the wiring, it looks like they will all reach even with the starter on the opposite side. Things seem to be going smoothly....so far.
The throttle may not need a return spring as it should be govened. It should pull back when running. At least, that's how every stationary engine that i have fiddled with does.
Without seeing the linkage, i can't really picture it. There is always a way to modify how the throttle can work. Even if you need to get your hands on a push/pull cable and fit it up.
Sounds like you are making progress.
The radiator hose sounds a little tricky. Its reinforced, so stretching it would be hard. Can you cut the hose and install a steped joiner? it would allow you to change size, even an automotive hose may be moulder this way that you can cut to length?
Tazza, Nice timing....I though sbout push pull settup about the time you posted it! Haven't found one with a big enough end for the lever though so I may have to ground the lever a bit, no biggy except removing the lever will be fun! And yes, the radiator hose will be tricky! The only way I see doing it is by using some sort of adapter between the two sizes. Never saw one for a vehicle going with that big a change in size. So, a trip to the parts store for heater hose and then to the plumbing section of Lowes for a couple 1 1/8th to 1 1/2 adapters. In a way this may help in the long run with the radiator setup. One major success today, I got the stuff lift hold pin in the ROPS freed today! 3 days of soaking with PB Blaster and 2 light taps of a hammer and it moves freely by hand now. I need some new zerk fittings all over the machine so I can grease things properly but everything is free moving now. That was the only pin that was really stuck though. RJS
Well today I will build the radiator frame that will actually hold the radiator so when I get the coupler back it's ready and there will be less to fabricate. I'm using angle iron from a trailer I cut up after a tree fell on it. Looks to be a fairly easy build this way. The radiator will just slide in from the top. The tough part will be a shroud, never had much luck mmaking those.
Good to hear things are going so well, just remember to keep taking pictures, and naturally post them
A little success today! I got the coupler and flywheel back the noon and started puting the motor in. Imediately The machines still on the trailer and the cherrypicker couldn't reach far enough. But a bit of ingenuity a 2x10 and a come along took care of that issue! I set the 2x10 in the machine and let the engine down on it then hooked the comealong on the back of the engine going to the hook on the bucket and slid the engine into the engine bay. To get the board out I wrapped a chiain around the ROPS then hooked the come along to it and then to the back of the motor. Lifted the rear of the motor with that and the front with the cherry picker and pulled the board out. Spent two hours though messing around trying to get that darn coupler onto the trans! Still don't have it on, and had to quit due to rain.Good to hear things are going so well, just remember to keep taking pictures, and naturally post them
Yes I am taking pictures, but getting them online is another issue, and right now it's going to have to wait as I am over my 5gb limit for the month....
RJS
Success and failure.... The engine is in! One bolt actually holding it in place now! I spent hours again today trying to get that darn coupler connected to the pump but just wasn't getting anywhere with it. Finally swapped the short flywheel bolts with 4" long bolts and got a neighbor to turn the motor as I pulled the coupler onto the pump shaft....took all of 2 seconds! ARGH! Neighbor must have thought I was stupid or something though since I couldn't get it myself.
Now the problem. With the coupler connected and engine all the way in as far back as it will go the front of the engine is sticking out the back of the bay an 1/8th of an inch and the front of the engine is 1/4 to 1/2 inch too high compared to the back. The only "fix" is to cut that area out of the back of the machine so the engine sits level. Figures, the torch is empty too. Using a sawzall will take all day and 20 blades, out of those too.
This causes another issue, to get the radiator in will be to leave the fan off the engine and add one or a dual electric fan on the other side of the radiator so things will fit right. I have an old dual fan setup from a Jeep that looks like it will fit nicely. Just need to mount it to the radiator support and wire it up to a switch on the panel. So the result will be hydraulics cooler, electric fan then radiator. Glad I hadn't finished the radiator support as now I need to add mounting tabs for the fan setup to it.
Need to re-route some wires and drill a new hole in the battery box for the positive cable to the starter and need to make some rear engine mounts too. Now the question, can I mount it solid with no rubber feet or should I have the rubber feet between the mount and machine?
RJS
I'd like to see engine mounts with rubber, it helps dampen the vibrations from the engine.
You just need to make sure the engine is pretty close to being in a straight line with the pump. If its out, it will put more stress on the coupler.
