NH L555 kubota problem

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codynutts

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So, i purchased a New holland L555 diesel skid loader today with a kabota motor. The problem it has is when its cold its starts hard cranks like 10-15 cycles over and over, and will not run over 1/4 throtle. (when warm starts right up but still wont run over 1/4 throtle) When running it puffs alot of bluish smoke and misses here and there. I have checked all fuel lines and filters/air filters=(good). Does any body have any idea to what this might be. i have been told injectors, fuel rail plugged? not sure maybe someone else has had this problem. I dont beleive its a head gasket because there is no water in the oil. Please help if you have any ideas thanks
 

jerry

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Have you checked actual fuel flow? Could be bad fuel if is has been sitting a while.
 

Tazza

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Have you checked actual fuel flow? Could be bad fuel if is has been sitting a while.
Blue smoke is generally burning engine oil. Jerry makes a good point, change the fuel and filter see where you are at. If it still does it, you may need to do a compression test to ensure the valves are all good.
Is there a lot of blow-by?
How long are you glowing the machine to start it?
 
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codynutts

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i checked fuel flow and that was great came out hose really good.
It does puff blue but i beleive it is all diesel, (exhaust is wet and smells like unburt diesel) as for the filter and fuel i will try that tomorrow night and see what it does along with a presure test on the coolent tank and pull the injectors to see if the head maybe cracked ( I HOPE NOT) as for bloe by i assume you mean the unburt fuel in the exhaust.... correct? as for the gloe plugs-been warming for no more then 10 secs, (should i go more?...... its in a heated shop) -should there be two pumps on this? there is a mechanical and the pump on the diesel/motor pump itself.....
 

Tazza

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It does puff blue but i beleive it is all diesel, (exhaust is wet and smells like unburt diesel) as for the filter and fuel i will try that tomorrow night and see what it does along with a presure test on the coolent tank and pull the injectors to see if the head maybe cracked ( I HOPE NOT) as for bloe by i assume you mean the unburt fuel in the exhaust.... correct? as for the gloe plugs-been warming for no more then 10 secs, (should i go more?...... its in a heated shop) -should there be two pumps on this? there is a mechanical and the pump on the diesel/motor pump itself.....
Blow-by is the gas that passes by the piston rings. In a good engine there should only be a small amount, in a worn engine there will be more.
The wet exhaust does lean towards an injector or even a sticky valve or pitted seat causing not enough compression to burn the fuel.
If there are no bubbles in your over flow pottle or coolant loss, i would doubt the head is cracked.
A 10 second glow is good, you could go longer, i generally do 15-20 sometimes more if its stone cold. It just makes it fire up faster. It all depends on the engine condition too, if its lower on the compression scale, it needs more heat.
 
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codynutts

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Blow-by is the gas that passes by the piston rings. In a good engine there should only be a small amount, in a worn engine there will be more.
The wet exhaust does lean towards an injector or even a sticky valve or pitted seat causing not enough compression to burn the fuel.
If there are no bubbles in your over flow pottle or coolant loss, i would doubt the head is cracked.
A 10 second glow is good, you could go longer, i generally do 15-20 sometimes more if its stone cold. It just makes it fire up faster. It all depends on the engine condition too, if its lower on the compression scale, it needs more heat.
yep understand all that, has been sitting since july for sure but nore sure how long b4 that guy bought it thinking it was a fuel filter ( had two on it, one inline and the round one) i just eliminated the inline filer and its just the round one now, I will try new fuel and filter and see what that does, also going to pull the injectors out to see how they look, we'll see how that goes tomorrow night and keep you informed, and ill try the glow plugs a little longer as well when starting cold
 
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codynutts

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Blow-by is the gas that passes by the piston rings. In a good engine there should only be a small amount, in a worn engine there will be more.
The wet exhaust does lean towards an injector or even a sticky valve or pitted seat causing not enough compression to burn the fuel.
If there are no bubbles in your over flow pottle or coolant loss, i would doubt the head is cracked.
A 10 second glow is good, you could go longer, i generally do 15-20 sometimes more if its stone cold. It just makes it fire up faster. It all depends on the engine condition too, if its lower on the compression scale, it needs more heat.
well changed he fuel an filter and stil the same things.......... hard cold starting, puffing alot of smoke and nothing over 1/4 throtle and rough running...................... :-/
 

Tazza

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well changed he fuel an filter and stil the same things.......... hard cold starting, puffing alot of smoke and nothing over 1/4 throtle and rough running...................... :-/
Do you have space to remove the tube lines and injectors and attach a tube line to the injector pump and hang the injectors out the side one at a time out the back and check their spray pattern?
Hopefully that makes a little sense, it will help identify if its a bad injector causing your issue.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Do you have space to remove the tube lines and injectors and attach a tube line to the injector pump and hang the injectors out the side one at a time out the back and check their spray pattern?
Hopefully that makes a little sense, it will help identify if its a bad injector causing your issue.
Or take the injectors to a pump shop and have them crack tested. should not be too much.
Also back to the blow by. Look for air comming out the vent tube from the valve cover or leave the oil cap off and see how much air comes out when it is running. The will show you if the rings are sealing good, Less and even is best. A puff puff or air is a sign of a bad cylinder leaking. Blowby however will not show if you are losing compression around a valve. If you pull the injectors try to do a compression test at the same time.
Skidsteer.ca
 
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codynutts

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Do you have space to remove the tube lines and injectors and attach a tube line to the injector pump and hang the injectors out the side one at a time out the back and check their spray pattern?
Hopefully that makes a little sense, it will help identify if its a bad injector causing your issue.
wish i could, i just pulled all the injectors and the lines are really tight and formed from the pump to the injectors........
 
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codynutts

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wish i could, i just pulled all the injectors and the lines are really tight and formed from the pump to the injectors........
skidsteer.ca yeah may have to have them tested somewhere..... what should the compression be around- i beleive i read somewhere on here that 300 or less means motor is getting tired and or shot....... is that correct? i pulled the injectors and waitng for my dad to bring the borascoop home to look down the cylinders, i'll check them out here in 30min or so and let you know what i see, prob not much a pistion and a cylinder hole haha but hope theres no holes on the pistons or anything..... as for the compression test i dont have one for a diesel, but going to see if John deere would have one i could borrow (dad works there) figures crossed..........
 

skidsteer.ca

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skidsteer.ca yeah may have to have them tested somewhere..... what should the compression be around- i beleive i read somewhere on here that 300 or less means motor is getting tired and or shot....... is that correct? i pulled the injectors and waitng for my dad to bring the borascoop home to look down the cylinders, i'll check them out here in 30min or so and let you know what i see, prob not much a pistion and a cylinder hole haha but hope theres no holes on the pistons or anything..... as for the compression test i dont have one for a diesel, but going to see if John deere would have one i could borrow (dad works there) figures crossed..........
Not sure on comp , but Tazza will know or Old Machinist can hook you up with a manual on a bobcat with the same Kub motor. 300 sound about right.
Hopefully the pistons and cylinders look good, then the only other bigger worrys would be the injection pump or valves. Even with "low" compression they usually run ok , just get harder to start.
Skidsteer.ca
 
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codynutts

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Not sure on comp , but Tazza will know or Old Machinist can hook you up with a manual on a bobcat with the same Kub motor. 300 sound about right.
Hopefully the pistons and cylinders look good, then the only other bigger worrys would be the injection pump or valves. Even with "low" compression they usually run ok , just get harder to start.
Skidsteer.ca
well looking in all 4 with borascoupe (good one with tv screen) and everthing looked good, the one thing i noticed was when i pulled the injectors, two of them where dry and the other two were wet, back two (closest to radiator) were nice and dry and front two were wet, maybe bad injectors? there just pooring fuel in all the time? Like i stated earlier it does smoke alot and wont idle up above 1/4 throtle and hard staring when dead cold. going to see if they have a compresion tester at john deere and do a compression test.... as for the injection pump i'm leaving that for last, just slowly working my way up from cheapest fix to most/more exspensive.
 

skidsteer.ca

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well looking in all 4 with borascoupe (good one with tv screen) and everthing looked good, the one thing i noticed was when i pulled the injectors, two of them where dry and the other two were wet, back two (closest to radiator) were nice and dry and front two were wet, maybe bad injectors? there just pooring fuel in all the time? Like i stated earlier it does smoke alot and wont idle up above 1/4 throtle and hard staring when dead cold. going to see if they have a compresion tester at john deere and do a compression test.... as for the injection pump i'm leaving that for last, just slowly working my way up from cheapest fix to most/more exspensive.
That s the way to do it. We bought a horrible running 648 deere grapple of a local equipment dealer cheap because his mechanics told him the engine was shot.
Turnd out it had 2 bad injectors and a bad head gasket on 2 other cylinders. With only 2 good holes it was suprizing that it would run at all.
Dealer was pissed when he found out we got it running with a head rebuild and a set of injectors. :)
Skidsteer.ca
 
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codynutts

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That s the way to do it. We bought a horrible running 648 deere grapple of a local equipment dealer cheap because his mechanics told him the engine was shot.
Turnd out it had 2 bad injectors and a bad head gasket on 2 other cylinders. With only 2 good holes it was suprizing that it would run at all.
Dealer was pissed when he found out we got it running with a head rebuild and a set of injectors. :)
Skidsteer.ca
yeah hopfully thats the problem with this one, I picked this one up cheap also, been completly repainted, did a GREAT job on it. Also came with brand new bucket and like new tires. Guy said pump needed to be rebuilt (may possiblely still, but fingures crossed its bad injectors) and we pressureized the coolend system with the injectors out to see if any coolent would drip into the cylinder, but that checked out good with no coolent in them, now just going to test the injectors to make sure there junk/bad and replace if are and see what she does. ill keep you informed here, hoping to test the injectors tomorrow and possible get new ones if are, but all depends on work....... :-/
 

Tazza

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yeah hopfully thats the problem with this one, I picked this one up cheap also, been completly repainted, did a GREAT job on it. Also came with brand new bucket and like new tires. Guy said pump needed to be rebuilt (may possiblely still, but fingures crossed its bad injectors) and we pressureized the coolend system with the injectors out to see if any coolent would drip into the cylinder, but that checked out good with no coolent in them, now just going to test the injectors to make sure there junk/bad and replace if are and see what she does. ill keep you informed here, hoping to test the injectors tomorrow and possible get new ones if are, but all depends on work....... :-/
It does sound like your injectors are leaky, that won't be helping things at all.
Compression should be up to about 450 for a good condition engine. 300 is the very low end of the scale, at this point its time to replace or re-condition the engine as starting will be very hard.
Pressure testing the rad to look for leaks doesn't always work. Its a good sign though, but never rely on it 100% though. As they heat up the cracks if there can open. Also the pressure may not be high enough to pass through small cracks. I had one that would bubble out of the radiator, just a little. Pressure testing the radiator never put any coolant into the cylinders.
Handy having access to all the tools for the job too. I'd love a scope like that to look inside engines without pulling the head.
 
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codynutts

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It does sound like your injectors are leaky, that won't be helping things at all.
Compression should be up to about 450 for a good condition engine. 300 is the very low end of the scale, at this point its time to replace or re-condition the engine as starting will be very hard.
Pressure testing the rad to look for leaks doesn't always work. Its a good sign though, but never rely on it 100% though. As they heat up the cracks if there can open. Also the pressure may not be high enough to pass through small cracks. I had one that would bubble out of the radiator, just a little. Pressure testing the radiator never put any coolant into the cylinders.
Handy having access to all the tools for the job too. I'd love a scope like that to look inside engines without pulling the head.
ok cool going to hopfully do compression tonight, yeah i figures that to about the pressure in the rad to check for head gaskets leaks but.... im not going to pull the head yet, if the injectors fix the running problem, i will get if good and warm and then check coolent tank for bubbles..... yeah the scoop if REALLY handy, my dad was a snap on tool dealer for 10 years, we have ALOT of tools. they all come in handy even if u only use them once every year
 
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codynutts

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ok cool going to hopfully do compression tonight, yeah i figures that to about the pressure in the rad to check for head gaskets leaks but.... im not going to pull the head yet, if the injectors fix the running problem, i will get if good and warm and then check coolent tank for bubbles..... yeah the scoop if REALLY handy, my dad was a snap on tool dealer for 10 years, we have ALOT of tools. they all come in handy even if u only use them once every year
know of a good web site that i could order injecotors offline for this kabota motor? they were $189.00 a piece from new holland loacl dealers... someone has to know a website were i can get them cheaper.....
 
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