Wow! Thanks Mike10 for the fantastic write up. I just bought a 1993 L555 that needs this done. I would also like to replace the bearings while I'm in there. Is there anything special that I need to know on the bearings. Once again -- thanks for the fantastic detailed info.First remove the bucket and raise the boom and insert the boom locks. You will need to drain some oil from the chaincase. There are drain plugs at both the front and back. You will need a 3/4 drive breaker bar to remove them. Jack up and block the front of the loader so you can remove the wheel. Inside the operators compartment down by the pedals are access plates on the side of the chaincase. There are four 5/16 bolts holding the plates to the chain case. Remove these bolts and remove the plates. You do not need to drain all the oil from the chain case, just enough so it does not leak out when you remove these plates. After the plate is remove you will see the nut that holds the gear to the axle. Before removing this nut get some 5/16 all thread and cut 3 pieces to about 5" in length and 1 piece about 3" in length. You can either weld a nut to one end of the all thread or use a double nut locked together. Taper the other end of the all thread slightly and be sure the threads are clean and easily screw into the chain case where you removed the four bolts that held the plate. Screw the all thread into the chain case until it contacts the gear. Then tighten the all thread so the gear stays in position when you remove the axle. Once the gear is locked in place remove the cotter pin and remove the nut and washer. Depending on the age of the machine you may have a notched cover over the nut instead of a notched nut that the cotter pin goes through. Once the nut and washer are removed the axle can be removed. You will probably need to tap on the axle flange to remove the axle from the gear and inner bearing. Now you can remove the outer dirt seal and inner oil seal. If the sealing surface on the axle is worn you will need to install a sleeve so the seal will seal when you are done. On later machines a sleeve was installed from the factory. If yours is worn you will need to determine which sleeve you need. Now for installing the seals. The oil seal goes in first, this is usually slightly wider than the outer dirt seal. The lip of the seal goes to the chain case to hold the oil in. It need to be inserted about 1/4" into the axle housing so there is room for the outer dirt seal to be installed into the housing. The only tricky part of this job is installing the outer dirt seal. If you have a later model with the sleeve installed from the factory on the axle you will see that it has a taper at the sealing surface shoulder so it will slide into the seals without turning the lip of the dirt seal backwards. If you have this setup you can go ahead and insert the dirt seal into the housing with the lip facing out to keep the dirt out. If, however, you have an earlier model you should slip the dirt seal onto the axle shoulder sealing surface. Insert the axle into the axle housing. It will slip though the inner bearing and contact the gear. Rotate the axle until you feel the splines catch like they are lined up. At this point you will need to tap the axle in. If you have the later axle go ahead and insert it fully into the axle housing. If you have an earlier model and you have the seal installed on the axle, slide the axle in as far as you can and still be able to use a screw driver or flat bar to push the outer seal into the axle housing. Before pushing the seal in place install the washer and nut so you don't push the axle back out. Now pry the seal into the housing. Once the seal is in place you can insert the axle the rest of the way in and install the washer and nut. Tighten the nut and install the cotter pin and put everything back together. It is important that the lip of the outer seal is not turned backward or you will have a leak shortly because dirt will get into the oil seal. The parts you will need are 144752 inner seal, 570473 outer seal, and if you need sleeves on the axle sealing area they are 9616493 for the earlier models and 9824930 for the later models. I think the change was made in 1992 but if an axle was replaced it could have the later axle. It is easily seen if there is a sleeve installed on the axle.
You will need to disassemble the chain case in order to replace the bearings. Unless you have a lot of contaminants in your oil, it think it is unnecessary to replace the inner bearings. If you have that level of contaminants in your oil then you are destined for hydro failure. Remove one of the axles and check the outer bearing and if everything looks good, just reassemble with new seals. I don't think I have ever replaced a bearing on that series of loaders.Wow! Thanks Mike10 for the fantastic write up. I just bought a 1993 L555 that needs this done. I would also like to replace the bearings while I'm in there. Is there anything special that I need to know on the bearings. Once again -- thanks for the fantastic detailed info.
OK Mike10. thanks again for sharing your knowledge with the rest of us. I guess I was just hoping that it was a bearing. The machine seems to operate fine going straight forward or backward but does not like to turn left or right. It will turn but it is hesitant and kinda jumpy. The boom hydraulics work really well and the engine runs great. I thought maybe a bad bearing was tying things up (putting the chains out of line) when turning due to lateral pressure on the wheel. Both rear axles were wrapped in twine and one of them is covered in oil. Do you have any other ideas for me? I just bought the machine recently with the hopes of an inexpensive bearing replacement. Thanks again.You will need to disassemble the chain case in order to replace the bearings. Unless you have a lot of contaminants in your oil, it think it is unnecessary to replace the inner bearings. If you have that level of contaminants in your oil then you are destined for hydro failure. Remove one of the axles and check the outer bearing and if everything looks good, just reassemble with new seals. I don't think I have ever replaced a bearing on that series of loaders.
If the engine does not pull down or does not spin the wheels when going into a pile of material then you have hydrostat pump or motor problems. Using one lever pull back slowly and see if the hydros hesitate or jump, If the first test indicates the hydrostats have power, then the hydro motors are probably the problem.OK Mike10. thanks again for sharing your knowledge with the rest of us. I guess I was just hoping that it was a bearing. The machine seems to operate fine going straight forward or backward but does not like to turn left or right. It will turn but it is hesitant and kinda jumpy. The boom hydraulics work really well and the engine runs great. I thought maybe a bad bearing was tying things up (putting the chains out of line) when turning due to lateral pressure on the wheel. Both rear axles were wrapped in twine and one of them is covered in oil. Do you have any other ideas for me? I just bought the machine recently with the hopes of an inexpensive bearing replacement. Thanks again.
Hey thanks again Mike. I have the wheels pulled for tires right now. I'll check it out like you said when I get it back together. I'll report back by starting a new thread since I seem to have accidentally hijacked this one. Are drive motors something my local hydraulic shop can rebuild? Or can I do it myself if that's what it ends up? ThanksIf the engine does not pull down or does not spin the wheels when going into a pile of material then you have hydrostat pump or motor problems. Using one lever pull back slowly and see if the hydros hesitate or jump, If the first test indicates the hydrostats have power, then the hydro motors are probably the problem.
Would the above instructions for axle seal replacement also cover the model L445 new holland? It was manufactured in 1982-1983, 30 HP gas, air cooled? I have a service manual on order and maybe it will provide a bit more details. I was not fully able to determine if the same instructions apply from my parts manual. The seal part numbers are the same. also, does anyone know the size of the seals, or maybe a national seal company part number, separate from the New Holland part number? I was hoping that I could order non brand name seals for a bit less cost. Thank you for the consideration.Hey thanks again Mike. I have the wheels pulled for tires right now. I'll check it out like you said when I get it back together. I'll report back by starting a new thread since I seem to have accidentally hijacked this one. Are drive motors something my local hydraulic shop can rebuild? Or can I do it myself if that's what it ends up? Thanks
I'd suspect the procedure is the same, but the part numbers may be different. The bearings will have numbers on them when you get them out, you can decide if they are worn and need replacing when removed. The seal may have a number, but not all do. You can generally get them matched with a bearing/seal company by giving them the shaft size, the OD and the thickness.Would the above instructions for axle seal replacement also cover the model L445 new holland? It was manufactured in 1982-1983, 30 HP gas, air cooled? I have a service manual on order and maybe it will provide a bit more details. I was not fully able to determine if the same instructions apply from my parts manual. The seal part numbers are the same. also, does anyone know the size of the seals, or maybe a national seal company part number, separate from the New Holland part number? I was hoping that I could order non brand name seals for a bit less cost. Thank you for the consideration.
getting ready to perform this on my L445. you said: 5/16 all thread and cut 3 pieces to about 5" in length and 1 piece about 3" in length. Why is one of the four pieces 3" long? How tight should the all thread be to the gear? I do not have to loosen the chain? Thank you very much for your details.I'd suspect the procedure is the same, but the part numbers may be different. The bearings will have numbers on them when you get them out, you can decide if they are worn and need replacing when removed. The seal may have a number, but not all do. You can generally get them matched with a bearing/seal company by giving them the shaft size, the OD and the thickness.
If there is no obstruction, then you can use all the same length. On some loaders brackets interfere with installing a longer bolt on the front axles. Snug the bolts so there is some pressure against the gear.getting ready to perform this on my L445. you said: 5/16 all thread and cut 3 pieces to about 5" in length and 1 piece about 3" in length. Why is one of the four pieces 3" long? How tight should the all thread be to the gear? I do not have to loosen the chain? Thank you very much for your details.
The access panel for the front (which I am working on first) is huge, it has approximately 12 bolts. (I wish I could post a photograph.) I have not yet removed the panel, but am looking at the repair manual. Most of the sprocket is visible once panel is removed. I am not sure the 5/16 nuts will be in the correct spots for the all thread to contact the sprocket to hold it in place. if not, how big of a deal is it if the sprocket does not stay in place, it appears that I can get most of my hand into the panel area to move the sprocket around and reposition it, once I am ready to reinstall the axle. The rear access panels are as you described, the four all threads should work great. My parts should arrive mid week this week. Thank you once again.If there is no obstruction, then you can use all the same length. On some loaders brackets interfere with installing a longer bolt on the front axles. Snug the bolts so there is some pressure against the gear.
You can find four holes to put the bolts in. They do not need to be perfectly across from each other.The access panel for the front (which I am working on first) is huge, it has approximately 12 bolts. (I wish I could post a photograph.) I have not yet removed the panel, but am looking at the repair manual. Most of the sprocket is visible once panel is removed. I am not sure the 5/16 nuts will be in the correct spots for the all thread to contact the sprocket to hold it in place. if not, how big of a deal is it if the sprocket does not stay in place, it appears that I can get most of my hand into the panel area to move the sprocket around and reposition it, once I am ready to reinstall the axle. The rear access panels are as you described, the four all threads should work great. My parts should arrive mid week this week. Thank you once again.
I purchased OEM inner and outer seal for one axle and plan to purchase the other three aftermarket. Wanted to provide some details for others if they desire to save a few bucks and purchase aftermarket. I received the outer seal today, part number 570473. It measures 3.75 OD, 3.00 ID, and .25 Width. It has a metal housing, with a simple rubber lip seal. When i figure out part numbers from other manufactures, I will post them.You can find four holes to put the bolts in. They do not need to be perfectly across from each other.
Pulled the axle from the L445. Best I can tell the seal surface is wore, and pitted. The axle seal surface measures 2.996. Plan to purchase an aftermarket shaft repair seal kit. Would your experience suggest that I purchase this a bit over or undersized? For example, timken part number 99299 range is 2.990 - 2.996. Timken part number 99296 ranges is 2.997 - 3.003. I am assuming heat will expand it to get it in place, due to the thinness of the metal, but I have never worked with a shaft seal before.I purchased OEM inner and outer seal for one axle and plan to purchase the other three aftermarket. Wanted to provide some details for others if they desire to save a few bucks and purchase aftermarket. I received the outer seal today, part number 570473. It measures 3.75 OD, 3.00 ID, and .25 Width. It has a metal housing, with a simple rubber lip seal. When i figure out part numbers from other manufactures, I will post them.
Quick update. I have the first one completed. I had to install a sleeve to it. I took a bunch of photographs and would upload them if that the site allows. I now have the other three axles pulled; i have a bunch of 5/16 threaded four inch bolts so I did not have to fabricate all thread. I purchased aftermarket sleeves, and oil seals. Rockauto had a discountinuation of sleeves, I purchased their last three, total cost was 21.00 and that included shipping. I also purchased three discontinued oil seals from them and they were also about the same price. I purchased my dirt seals from a place in Indiana, they were about ten dollars each.Pulled the axle from the L445. Best I can tell the seal surface is wore, and pitted. The axle seal surface measures 2.996. Plan to purchase an aftermarket shaft repair seal kit. Would your experience suggest that I purchase this a bit over or undersized? For example, timken part number 99299 range is 2.990 - 2.996. Timken part number 99296 ranges is 2.997 - 3.003. I am assuming heat will expand it to get it in place, due to the thinness of the metal, but I have never worked with a shaft seal before.
Thanks for the update and glad you are making good progress.Quick update. I have the first one completed. I had to install a sleeve to it. I took a bunch of photographs and would upload them if that the site allows. I now have the other three axles pulled; i have a bunch of 5/16 threaded four inch bolts so I did not have to fabricate all thread. I purchased aftermarket sleeves, and oil seals. Rockauto had a discountinuation of sleeves, I purchased their last three, total cost was 21.00 and that included shipping. I also purchased three discontinued oil seals from them and they were also about the same price. I purchased my dirt seals from a place in Indiana, they were about ten dollars each.
