873 R.H. drive motor hesitation

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kweber

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Feb 28, 2010
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Hi, New to forum. Would appreciate any help. I have a 97 873 and I am experiencing a hesitation only in reverse on the R.H. drive motor and it only occurs when going from forward to reverse. The machine digs great and makes no unusual noise. I removed the case drain filter and it is spotless. The oil is not overheating and the hydro filter is brand new. It doesn't happen everytime but when it does it is momentary to as much as 4 seconds before it comes in and it doesn't seem to matter how far I move the lever. Once it comes in it works as great as the left side and pulls until I move the lever ahead. Again, any help is appreciated.
 
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kweber

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Feb 28, 2010
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travel motor seal and plastic back up channel ring , change the whole seal kit
Thanks for the help. I lifted the cab and took the side plate off covering the RH drive motor, at a quick glance I didn't see external mounting studs or bolts to remove it, do you know, do I have to remove the chaincase cover to get access to the mounting device? Again, thanks for your help.
 

Fishfiles

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Feb 8, 2007
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1,698
Thanks for the help. I lifted the cab and took the side plate off covering the RH drive motor, at a quick glance I didn't see external mounting studs or bolts to remove it, do you know, do I have to remove the chaincase cover to get access to the mounting device? Again, thanks for your help.
you take the cover off between the wheels , undo the hydraulic hoses , and you may have to remove the fitting from the motor to access one of the bolts , four 3/4 hex headed bolts hold it in , wiggle it using a prybar if it's stuck after removing bolts , mark the hoses and fittings some way to make it easier on you and also mark the sections of the motor to ensure proper indexing when going back , 2 hours should do the whole job
 
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kweber

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Feb 28, 2010
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you take the cover off between the wheels , undo the hydraulic hoses , and you may have to remove the fitting from the motor to access one of the bolts , four 3/4 hex headed bolts hold it in , wiggle it using a prybar if it's stuck after removing bolts , mark the hoses and fittings some way to make it easier on you and also mark the sections of the motor to ensure proper indexing when going back , 2 hours should do the whole job
Thanks for the tips and advice, it will be my weekend project.
 
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kweber

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Feb 28, 2010
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you take the cover off between the wheels , undo the hydraulic hoses , and you may have to remove the fitting from the motor to access one of the bolts , four 3/4 hex headed bolts hold it in , wiggle it using a prybar if it's stuck after removing bolts , mark the hoses and fittings some way to make it easier on you and also mark the sections of the motor to ensure proper indexing when going back , 2 hours should do the whole job
I'm back. I have removed the RH motor cover and the large hoses are in plain sight, the small case drain hose is also right there. The compartment the motor is in is clean and dry and has virtually no dirt or debris thanks to a major cleaning I gave it last year. The reason I mention this is that there are no mounting bolts visible from the outboard side of the machine. I do see several (10 or 12 maybe, I didn't count) allen head cap screws that I assume are holding the sections of the motor together. I do see bosses on the motor housing that could possibly correspond with attaching bolts possibly coming into the motor housing from the chain case cavity side. Any thoughts before I start removing all the stuff on top of the chain case and pull the top cover off?
 
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kweber

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Feb 28, 2010
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I'm back. I have removed the RH motor cover and the large hoses are in plain sight, the small case drain hose is also right there. The compartment the motor is in is clean and dry and has virtually no dirt or debris thanks to a major cleaning I gave it last year. The reason I mention this is that there are no mounting bolts visible from the outboard side of the machine. I do see several (10 or 12 maybe, I didn't count) allen head cap screws that I assume are holding the sections of the motor together. I do see bosses on the motor housing that could possibly correspond with attaching bolts possibly coming into the motor housing from the chain case cavity side. Any thoughts before I start removing all the stuff on top of the chain case and pull the top cover off?
Looking for suggestions. There is no way of removing the motor from the outside of the chaincase. Called local Bobcat dealer and they were basically unsure of how the motor comes out. They were kind enough to photocopy the procedure from their service manual and send it to me, it says to disassemble the motor one piece at a time as it sits in the machine. Not looking forward to that based on less than sterile conditions and lack of vision. They also mentioned I may have to remove chaincase cover and remove the final drive chains to pull the complete motor and the tech said that there probably won't be a master link, that I'll have to grind off the rivet and replace with a master link when going together. I need to get this thing going but I want to make sure I am going in the right direction. Thanks
 

Tazza

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Dec 7, 2004
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Looking for suggestions. There is no way of removing the motor from the outside of the chaincase. Called local Bobcat dealer and they were basically unsure of how the motor comes out. They were kind enough to photocopy the procedure from their service manual and send it to me, it says to disassemble the motor one piece at a time as it sits in the machine. Not looking forward to that based on less than sterile conditions and lack of vision. They also mentioned I may have to remove chaincase cover and remove the final drive chains to pull the complete motor and the tech said that there probably won't be a master link, that I'll have to grind off the rivet and replace with a master link when going together. I need to get this thing going but I want to make sure I am going in the right direction. Thanks
I woudn't be happy to pull the motor down while still hanging off the machine. The parts aren't light and you need to ge thtem back into the correct position when putting it back together. I agree that the chain will probably not have a con-link. Factory chains do not have a joiner.
 
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kweber

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Feb 28, 2010
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I woudn't be happy to pull the motor down while still hanging off the machine. The parts aren't light and you need to ge thtem back into the correct position when putting it back together. I agree that the chain will probably not have a con-link. Factory chains do not have a joiner.
I've finally come to the conclusion that I'm just going to buy my own service manual. The pictures of the procedures in the photocopies I mentioned above were almost impossible make out. There are 12 allenhead capscrews holding the motor together. The service procedure says to remove 10 of them and leave two in to hold the motor together until it is removed from the carrier, the carrier is the part that is mounted to the chaincase and holds the shaft and bearings that drive the sprockets. It would make sense to leave the bolts in as it would also help in keeping things lined up and held together during reassembly. The problem is I can't determine which two capscrews to leave in. You would think they would be a little shorter since they apparently aren't helping hold the motor to the carrier but I took out and measured and replaced four of the most likely ones judging from the picture and they were all the same length. The motor in the pictures from the service procedures is not exactly like the one I am working on. Mine has BOSS O-ring fittings and the one in the pictures appears to be O-ring face and the case drains appear to be in different locations. I took all the numbers off of the little I.D. tag and spent at least an hour trying to find something on the internet to compare it to but couldn't find anything. Unfortunately, I can't make out the name of the manufacturer. I'm still open to suggestions or ideas but probably going to be ordering the manual.
 

Tazza

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I've finally come to the conclusion that I'm just going to buy my own service manual. The pictures of the procedures in the photocopies I mentioned above were almost impossible make out. There are 12 allenhead capscrews holding the motor together. The service procedure says to remove 10 of them and leave two in to hold the motor together until it is removed from the carrier, the carrier is the part that is mounted to the chaincase and holds the shaft and bearings that drive the sprockets. It would make sense to leave the bolts in as it would also help in keeping things lined up and held together during reassembly. The problem is I can't determine which two capscrews to leave in. You would think they would be a little shorter since they apparently aren't helping hold the motor to the carrier but I took out and measured and replaced four of the most likely ones judging from the picture and they were all the same length. The motor in the pictures from the service procedures is not exactly like the one I am working on. Mine has BOSS O-ring fittings and the one in the pictures appears to be O-ring face and the case drains appear to be in different locations. I took all the numbers off of the little I.D. tag and spent at least an hour trying to find something on the internet to compare it to but couldn't find anything. Unfortunately, I can't make out the name of the manufacturer. I'm still open to suggestions or ideas but probably going to be ordering the manual.
If you do have to buy the manual, make sure you give them the serial number. There can be slight changes between serial number breaks.
Sadly i have no idea what bolts to leave in, but it seems odd to remove 10 bolts and leave two. You still want to be able to remove the entire motor for ease of work..... The correct manual should give you the correct procedure for this. They aren't THAT expensive, especially for what you can learn from them.
 

Fishfiles

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Feb 8, 2007
Messages
1,698
If you do have to buy the manual, make sure you give them the serial number. There can be slight changes between serial number breaks.
Sadly i have no idea what bolts to leave in, but it seems odd to remove 10 bolts and leave two. You still want to be able to remove the entire motor for ease of work..... The correct manual should give you the correct procedure for this. They aren't THAT expensive, especially for what you can learn from them.
two of the bolts should be a different sized hex as 2 are suppose to be different diameters
 
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kweber

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Feb 28, 2010
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two of the bolts should be a different sized hex as 2 are suppose to be different diameters
I haven't removed all the bolts but probably about 8 and they are all the same size (length, diameter, head size and hex size 10mm). I ordered a Service Manual on the internet today from Yesterdays Tractor website for $74, it's supposed to be a factory manual. At this point I think I will wait to go any farther until I get the manual here. They said 10 days. I did call Loader Parts Source today and found out the manufacturer of the motor is Rexroth.
 

VR Trooper

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Nov 14, 2011
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I haven't removed all the bolts but probably about 8 and they are all the same size (length, diameter, head size and hex size 10mm). I ordered a Service Manual on the internet today from Yesterdays Tractor website for $74, it's supposed to be a factory manual. At this point I think I will wait to go any farther until I get the manual here. They said 10 days. I did call Loader Parts Source today and found out the manufacturer of the motor is Rexroth.
Hello Kweber, I just read this post as I am in the middle of this exact job. I had the same symptoms and found the o-rings and plastic channel seals were somewhat disintegrated. Thought I'd see how your job turned out. I have the drive motor torn down and removed and I'm in the process of locating the seal kit. Loader Parts Source is looking into availability for me currently. Where did you source your parts from and do you recall how much they were? Also, what was included in the kit you installed? Thank you in advance. Ryan.
 
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kweber

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Feb 28, 2010
Messages
20
Hello Kweber, I just read this post as I am in the middle of this exact job. I had the same symptoms and found the o-rings and plastic channel seals were somewhat disintegrated. Thought I'd see how your job turned out. I have the drive motor torn down and removed and I'm in the process of locating the seal kit. Loader Parts Source is looking into availability for me currently. Where did you source your parts from and do you recall how much they were? Also, what was included in the kit you installed? Thank you in advance. Ryan.
VR Trooper, Actually, believe it or not I am still running the loader that way. Along with my regular job, I am in the process of building a new house and hardly have enough time to sleep. But I have noticed a strange phenomenon, if you want to call it that, if I engage the right lever before engaging the left lever it works most of the time. If I forget and the right motor won't drive I just put both in neutral and engage the right one and away I go. Someday when I fix it I will have to relearn how to operate it normally again :). It just seems really strange that I would still have full drive power if I have bad o-rings but I have heard this diagnosis more that once. I would like to know how yours turns out when you get it done. Ken
 

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