Hello all! I bought my John Deere 170 a few months ago for $1000. Not running, sitting in the weeds for a few years. Since then I've rewired it, installed a new solenoid, new coil, rebuilt the carb, new fuel lines and filter, new fuel pump, changed the oil and filter, new battery, new ignition switch, and choke cable. The previous owner removed the original flathead Wisconsin because it knocked, and replaced it with the v465 OHV engine. So I really don't have much room to work on it. I got it running and it sounds good! Smokes a little at first but stops once it's warmed up. I need to get the brakes working, and I'm sure I'll need to replace everything. Does anyone know of a source for parrts? Every time I look up parts on JDparts, they say they are no longer availabe..... I also have a leak on both lift cylindes, the seals on the front or top are the ones leaking, are these still available? I read in one of the other post that the Mustang 1700 is the same machine, I'll try to look up that.
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skidsteer.ca
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Any good hydraulic shop will be able to match up the cylinder packings, that on is no big deal. Those early models of deere where made by the company that now makes Mustang (owatanna, sp?) so you may be able to source some parts there.
Also alot of chains, sprockets and such are available from suppliers like Browning, not sure how your brakes are designed, but if its a simple disc brake setup on a shaft some place, they may be able to help. If its a wet disc clutch pack then your back to the Manufacturer.
Ken
Also alot of chains, sprockets and such are available from suppliers like Browning, not sure how your brakes are designed, but if its a simple disc brake setup on a shaft some place, they may be able to help. If its a wet disc clutch pack then your back to the Manufacturer.
Ken
Thanks for the reply It has a drum brake on each of the front wheels, just like a car brake. One, one chamber master cylinder that looks a lot like an early car one for manual brakes. The MC is trach now, been left to rust up years ago, and I haven't had the wheels off yet to see what's left in the drums. I can't put one on the shaft anywhere or the brake would stall the engine. All that spins with the engine. I had it going the other day, used it to clean up a little and other than stalling out now and again, it ran good. i have to play with the throttle yet to keep it where i put it, and i need to get the rust from the gas tanks, it keeps getting sucked up into the fuel line.
skidsteer.ca
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You should be able to find another master cylinder and wheel cylinders that will work if the originals are no longer available. Brake shoes may be tougher to come by, but I'm sure something cold be made to work if needed. Still take the parts to a few auto parts shops, parts may be common off the shelf stuff. Failing that try Mustang and let us know how you make out.
Check www.tractorbynet.com or www.yesterdaystractors.com I know those guys have a product that plastic coats the inside of rusty fuel tanks to seal in the contamination. I can't remember what it is called or where it can be had but its out there if you need it.
Ken
Does it use the drum brakes as its park brake? i know my 763 had an option of disc brakes, not sure exactly why though as when you engage the factory standard brake, nothing will let it move.
Sounds like an interesting machine.
I agree with ken on the master cylinder, you may be lucky with taking it to an auto or brake store to match it. Worst case I'm sure they could bore it and install over sized pistons. As for the shoes, there are places over here that re-bond brake material, I'm sure you would have places over there that can too.
Good luck in your quest!
I think the brakes are for both service and parking. There is an electric solenoid in the line before it splits to two lines that looks a lot like a roll control or line lock. hold the pedal down, hit the switch, and it locks the pressure in the line so the brakes can't be released. I plan to take the parts to a NAPA store I used to work at, we used to match up stuff like this all the time. i bought a Chevette MC off of Ebay for $17, but it's too long. I'll try to get some pics of it today, I have to try and get a hose or pipe to connect the air cleaner to the carb, it was gone when I bought it.
It's been a while, but here's an update. I got the rust out of the gas tanks by using a good magnet on a stick and scraping the sides and bottom of the tank over and over again everytime I would run it. And I started using Marine Sta-bil fuel stabilzer because the corrosion inhibitors will stop the corrosion. And it worked. No more rust in the tanks. I found the rebuild kits for the lift cylinders online and got them squared away. I never fixed the brakes. I had a new cutting edge welded on the bucket. It burns oil bad when the proper level is in the crankcase, but it stops smoking when it's a little more than a quart low. I've since picked up another V465D engine to put in it, but just haven't done it yet. How do you post pics on this forum?
Another update, with some pics. Most of these are a few years old but it hasn't changed. http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv122/paranoid74/026.jpg http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv122/paranoid74/027-1.jpg http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv122/paranoid74/028-1.jpg http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv122/paranoid74/032.jpg http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv122/paranoid74/035-1.jpg
Nice looking machine.
What engine is that? almost looks like a beetle engine.
That is a wisconsin V465, 65-hp. The original engine was a wisconsin VG4D 37-hp but the man I bought it from changed it. I bet he chose the V465 because it was cheaper. They seem to be more common. There used on stump grinders, wood chipper, big concrete saws, drilling rigs, etc. I have to replace it and the best deal I could find was another V465 for $600 !
The downside is that you cant get to the spark plugs while the engine is in the loader, and you have to be careful not to break anyhting since its much more power than stock.
That is a pretty large HP for a machine that size.
Hopefully you don't need to change plugs often, that would really bug me to have to pull the engine to replace them
I agree, I have to be carefull now. I'm going to install a tachometer and keep the engine around 1800 rpm, that's what the hp charts show for 37 hp for that engine, 65 hp at 3000 rpm.That is a pretty large HP for a machine that size.
Hopefully you don't need to change plugs often, that would really bug me to have to pull the engine to replace them
I may install platinum plugs in the replacement engine so I won't have to worry about it! I have a electronic points conversion too.
I was actually thinking about saying that, they do last a lot longer.
you don't have to go back to the manufacture for the clutch. actually if you call john deere like i did they will say they cant get it but gahl can at a cost of over 700 per clutch. or you can go to http://www.tribco.com/ and tell them part number JD600. that is the friction disks at just under 200 bucks per a clutch pack. This machine matches parts with mustang 1700 and even 1200. Just read my thread here http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=79015
Thanks for that information, I apologize for not monitoring this post, I didn't get any notification of replies. I am now looking for a drive belt, the variable speed belt. Mine broke yesterday. I do have the John Deere number, GG020-30843, and the parts manual says substitute for GG020-18058. From searching here and the net i may have found other numbers but I can't compare the dimensions because I can't find any for the John Deere part and my belt is so worn and stretched that I can't rely on it's dimensions. I think 2926v686 will work. The dimensions are 1 13/16" wide x 68.6" long. But the actual contact area, thickness, is half of the john deere part and I'm not sure I want to try it. I think the 2926v686 will fit the OMC 1200, do they use the same belt as the JD170, JD24, Owatonna 1700 ?? My variable speed front pulley isn't even hooked up, I set the speed and left it alone. I think a previous owner removed the hydraulic line and rotating coupler because the pulley leaked hydro oil. I have a grease fitting in the end and just pumped some grease in it while rotating the pulley to allow it to squeeze together and bring the belt to the outside or top of the pulley to get the most speed out of it. It's now really close to a 1 to 1 ratio so if I could find the parts to do it, I may just put a large chain and sprockets on it. I don't need the variable drive anyway. But, for simplicity I'd like to just replace the belt for now. In other news, the replacement engine is running great! I'll get some pics up soon. Crazy power, so smooth, starts right up, just incredible. I was able to fix a few hydraulic leaks while the engine was out as well and one was between the filter housing and pump so it was drawing air in while running causing slow hydraulics, now its so much faster and smooth bucket operation. Just for info, if you decide to use the V465 engine, the mounts need to be modified. I didn't know the previous owner had to do this until I removed the engine. Both mounts had to be ground or milled down to half the thickness for the crankshaft to line up with the drive shaft to the gearbox. I just used one mount from the old engine for the front mount since the cross member is welded in, but the rear cross member is bolted in so I flipped it to under the mounting tabs to lower it the required 1/2 inch and used the unmodified mount. Thanks for any help you can provide, and I will post any more info I find.
From what I can tell from the old belt, it's length is 54.5 inches. Could it have actually shrunk that much? It's a JD GG020-30843, stamped right on it. Since my variable speed doesn't work, a bet I could get away with a shorter than stock belt. I'd like to have a 1:1 ratio, or close to it anyway. When I run the loader, I rarely rev the engine high. I don't have a tach yet, but i just come off of idle and that big lump just powers thru any load I put on it.
Here's some pictures I took today. That mirror is a door mirror from a Kenworth. The LED worklight was put on in a rush to load a truck at night. And you can see how the variable drive pulleys are not aligned, that probably cause the belt failure, Ill have to take care of that when i put the belt on. I used a used nissan car muffler thinking it would be quiet, but nope, I still need hearing protection. I guess on a car the catalytic converter helps to keep it quiet. The air intake hose is a flexible radiator hose, i made an elbow from old exhaust pipe to connect it. And yes, one of these years I'll paint it.
