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thetool
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2008
- Messages
- 516
I'll tell you how I remove it-but I'm always better when I can see it.....=).
Raise and lock the boom. Lift the cab. Have caps and plugs available, or drain the tank. Have the area around the valve clean.
Remove the panel with the steering levers. You need to mark and remove the bolts hoolding the linkage bars together, then remove all the bolts holding the panel to the frame. Remove the throttle lever and red knob for the manual boom lowering valve.
If it's a G-series, remove the fuse box cover.
Unplug harness attached to levers and back-up alarm if you have it, and lift out the panel with the steering levers.
It also helps to jack up the machine, remove the right side wheels and the cover between.
Remove all the hoses and tubelines attached to the valve, unbolt the valve from the frame and lift it out.
You may have to remove some fittings from the valve to get to all the hoses and tubes.
You may not need to pull the valve if you only have spools leaking, they can be re-sealed without pulling the valve, get back if you need more info on that.
When you put it back in, leave the valve mounting bolts loose until you can start and/or tighten the steel tubelines, or you will be cursing. You're going to be cursing anyway.....=).
There are a lot of connections, don't forget to mark any that you may have trouble remembering when you go bavck together. You never know what comes up between pulling it and putting it back in, and memory often fails. A woring hook-up can cost big time trying to get it figured out.
There's more to it than that, but that's the basic idea. If you have foot pedals, you have to undo linkage. If you have hand controls, you have to remove actuators, but all that you'll see when you get the boom and cab up and get the steering panel out.
Don't even try it without raising and locking the boom. If your valve is inoperative, there are ways to get it up with a hoist or another machine.
Good Luck and keep us informed......=).
3 hours later and a few words I have not used in a while its out. thank you Any idea how much it would cost to have a rebuild done on this by a bobcat dealer now that its out the spools were leaking like a sieve.
You would be up for I'd suspect $80/hour plus parts. I assume they would know the tricks to do it faster but i doubt they would rush. You did pretty well doing it in 3 hours! i doubt I'd do it that fast... All the stuff you need to remove to gain access, then oil everywhere!
I rebuilt it myself, was not as hard as I thought, the hardest thing was the balls and spring in the end of the one spool but my dealer warned me about that.THANKS again for all your help. LARRY
skidsteer.ca
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2006
- Messages
- 3,853
You already did the hard part, you might as well change the seals, the detent balls are a bear, but should be replaced when the valve is out as they tend to rust and the float function no longer locks on. Sometimes you need to butcher up a wrench or to to get all the fitting good and tight in the minimal space provided.
Ken
Hi- Saw this older reply in the archives. I've got a 2001 773 Bobcat. I THINK it may be leaking from just the spool valve if I'm naming that correctly. If I crank up the machine and fluid is pouring out ( squirting out ) of the pin hole on the blank looking cylinder on the back of the big box that everything goes into ( control valve ? ), then is it possible just to reseal those parts without removing the whole box? Will that do any damage to run it and check that leak? Thought I'd just put a few gallons in and run it to be sure, but when it's static with just a little pressure on the bucket, oil is seeping out in that area. Thanks a lot!
That hole is just to allow pressures to equalize, if it's leaking oil, the seal is bad.
