I've seen a few posts on replacing the rear axle bearings and seals but couldn't get any of the pictures people posted. Just noticed my little leak is a major one tonight so have to fix that. Any suggests welcomed I'm new to this so just hoping I can get it done in a couple of days.
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Its a seriously big job. The easiest way is to pull the pump and motor out then you get full access. It can be done without doing that, but it will not be easy. You need to un-do a 1 1/8" bolt inside the chain case, then using a hydraulic bottle jack push the axle hub outwards, this will pull the seal out of the axle tube, the axle will come with it. Pull the bearing cone, replace if it was damaged. Install a new wear ring and seal, re-install the bearing slide the axle back into the chain case, line up the sprocket, attach bolt. You will need a seal installation tool, or even a bearing cup cut in 2 will work, install and hit the hub with a hammer to seat the new seal. Tighten the bolt up inside, re-fill the chain case and you are good to go.
Thats a very brief explanation, its not difficult or complicated, it just takes time and effort. 2 people make it so much easier!.
Thats a very brief explanation, its not difficult or complicated, it just takes time and effort. 2 people make it so much easier!.
I am living proof that Tazza very well knows what he is talking about replacing 743 axle seals. The bearing cut in 2 works like a champ on the seal installation. Pay attention to what he says I just replaced all 4 of my seals, bearings, and cups with his remote assistance. Parts alone cost close to $400.00 but very well worth it. You will need to pull the engine and the hydro pump. Big job but again these machines last a long time with a little maintenance. Also if you know a mechanic with good tools that is a HUGE PLUS!!Its a seriously big job. The easiest way is to pull the pump and motor out then you get full access. It can be done without doing that, but it will not be easy. You need to un-do a 1 1/8" bolt inside the chain case, then using a hydraulic bottle jack push the axle hub outwards, this will pull the seal out of the axle tube, the axle will come with it. Pull the bearing cone, replace if it was damaged. Install a new wear ring and seal, re-install the bearing slide the axle back into the chain case, line up the sprocket, attach bolt. You will need a seal installation tool, or even a bearing cup cut in 2 will work, install and hit the hub with a hammer to seat the new seal. Tighten the bolt up inside, re-fill the chain case and you are good to go.
Thats a very brief explanation, its not difficult or complicated, it just takes time and effort. 2 people make it so much easier!.
Access is your biggest problem, it really is. If you are planning on keeping the machine seriously consider doing all 4, not just 1. If you go to all that effort to pull the pump and motor you should do them all. If you pull the pump, disconnect the fittings at the motors, not the pumpI am living proof that Tazza very well knows what he is talking about replacing 743 axle seals. The bearing cut in 2 works like a champ on the seal installation. Pay attention to what he says I just replaced all 4 of my seals, bearings, and cups with his remote assistance. Parts alone cost close to $400.00 but very well worth it. You will need to pull the engine and the hydro pump. Big job but again these machines last a long time with a little maintenance. Also if you know a mechanic with good tools that is a HUGE PLUS!!
Hopefully I can do it through the access hole. Planning on doing all 4 just to be safe. Does anyone know the bearing, seal and wear part numbers? I have LM104949 for the bearing and Chicago Rawhide 541523 for the seal but not sure those numbers are correct and can't find anyone who carries the seal. Any help would be appreciated.Access is your biggest problem, it really is. If you are planning on keeping the machine seriously consider doing all 4, not just 1. If you go to all that effort to pull the pump and motor you should do them all. If you pull the pump, disconnect the fittings at the motors, not the pump
The seals are dirt cheap at your dealer, the bearings, not so much. I would honestly go OEM for the seal.Hopefully I can do it through the access hole. Planning on doing all 4 just to be safe. Does anyone know the bearing, seal and wear part numbers? I have LM104949 for the bearing and Chicago Rawhide 541523 for the seal but not sure those numbers are correct and can't find anyone who carries the seal. Any help would be appreciated.
I can look the numbers up when i get home, can you send a reminder e-mail to me though? taz38sup at yahoo.com.au at = @ this way i can't forget!
Bearing Cone 6519925 - LM104949The seals are dirt cheap at your dealer, the bearings, not so much. I would honestly go OEM for the seal.
I can look the numbers up when i get home, can you send a reminder e-mail to me though? taz38sup at yahoo.com.au at = @ this way i can't forget!
Bearing Cup 6519926 - LM104912
Axle Seal 6513277 - CR541523
Wear Ring 6558477
As previously mentioned, i really do recommend buying the seal from Bobcat.
Now, removing the bolt inside you will need a 1 1/8" ring/open end spanner, i have heard bobcat mechanics using the hydrostats to turn the axles and un-do the bolt, this is your choice. If you don't you will need to crack both oil lines to the motors and plug the hoses, leave the motor end open so you can turn the axle. Use a piece of angle or flat with holes matching the studs, use this as a lever to turn the axle which will in turn un-do the bolt inside, my bar was about 6' long, gave heaps of leverage. When done, plug the ports on the motor.
Thanks for all your help Tazza. It takes awhile but for the most part isn't that bad. However, how do you get the bearing cones out? I've tried reversing a bearing puller but that turned into a wrestling match and only got it 95% out. Anything easy or do I need an expensive tool? Thanks again!Bearing Cone 6519925 - LM104949
Bearing Cup 6519926 - LM104912
Axle Seal 6513277 - CR541523
Wear Ring 6558477
As previously mentioned, i really do recommend buying the seal from Bobcat.
Now, removing the bolt inside you will need a 1 1/8" ring/open end spanner, i have heard bobcat mechanics using the hydrostats to turn the axles and un-do the bolt, this is your choice. If you don't you will need to crack both oil lines to the motors and plug the hoses, leave the motor end open so you can turn the axle. Use a piece of angle or flat with holes matching the studs, use this as a lever to turn the axle which will in turn un-do the bolt inside, my bar was about 6' long, gave heaps of leverage. When done, plug the ports on the motor.
I used a length of bar, simply slide it in and hit the cone, repeat top and bottom, this will get the internal ones out but the external ones as i did both rear and front ones together i used a long bar and slid from one axle tube through the chain case to the other one and did the same as i did to remove the internal ones. Does that make sense? the way the manual explains it, they want you to use a slide hammer but i found the bar to be really easy.Thanks for all your help Tazza. It takes awhile but for the most part isn't that bad. However, how do you get the bearing cones out? I've tried reversing a bearing puller but that turned into a wrestling match and only got it 95% out. Anything easy or do I need an expensive tool? Thanks again!
Thanks Tazza that worked great! Hate to keep bothering you but how do I get the new cones back in? I tried a 1/2" threaded rod with a washer and an old bearing to draw in inside cones in but just snapped the 1/2" rod. Really thought they'd go in easier! Also, any hopes of getting a cocked wear ring on straight? I put the bearings on with the pipe and mallet but when the bearing got past the first zero clearance it and the pipe slammed onto the next one and the wear ring got cocked. Thanks again for all the help!I used a length of bar, simply slide it in and hit the cone, repeat top and bottom, this will get the internal ones out but the external ones as i did both rear and front ones together i used a long bar and slid from one axle tube through the chain case to the other one and did the same as i did to remove the internal ones. Does that make sense? the way the manual explains it, they want you to use a slide hammer but i found the bar to be really easy.
The manual said to use threaded rod to pull the cups in, i personally machined an old piece of aluminum to fit the cup then drilled a hole and machined the end of a piece of chrome bar to fit the hole. I then used a hammer to belt it into place, you feel the "bounce" change as it seats. I also built an adapter for my porta power pull ram, it pulls them in with ease. Can you try a larger diameter piece of threaded rod? say 3/4? The finer the thread you can get the better as you get more force. But most cyclone rod as we call it is quite coarse and about 1/2"Thanks Tazza that worked great! Hate to keep bothering you but how do I get the new cones back in? I tried a 1/2" threaded rod with a washer and an old bearing to draw in inside cones in but just snapped the 1/2" rod. Really thought they'd go in easier! Also, any hopes of getting a cocked wear ring on straight? I put the bearings on with the pipe and mallet but when the bearing got past the first zero clearance it and the pipe slammed onto the next one and the wear ring got cocked. Thanks again for all the help!
Do you have access to a lathe? if so, i would look at doing it that way, i know its probably not the best but worked a treat for me. I built the hydraulic one for 2 full sets i need to do shortly, i tested it with the old cups and worked really well but its a lot of work for something you will only use once, thats why the hammer or threaded rod is a better option. I spent the better part of a day building it, machining threads take time....
I guess it depends on just how bad the wear ring is.... If its badly damaged it may be best to get a new one, you don't want to do the job again..... If its only the other edge you may get away with it as the seal runs more or less in the centre of the ring.
FYI its not a bother, if you have questions, keep them coming!
The porta power sounds like the way to go but wasn't to bad with the 1" - 14 rod. I used disks to keep the rod centered in the axle housing. Figured I'd better ask before I run into another road block. The axle seal tool how is that made? I've got the old cones and think I'm supposed to cut them in half and maybe weld them together? And where are they installed at the hub or right below the wear ring? Do you have any pictures? Thanks again for all the help.The manual said to use threaded rod to pull the cups in, i personally machined an old piece of aluminum to fit the cup then drilled a hole and machined the end of a piece of chrome bar to fit the hole. I then used a hammer to belt it into place, you feel the "bounce" change as it seats. I also built an adapter for my porta power pull ram, it pulls them in with ease. Can you try a larger diameter piece of threaded rod? say 3/4? The finer the thread you can get the better as you get more force. But most cyclone rod as we call it is quite coarse and about 1/2"
Do you have access to a lathe? if so, i would look at doing it that way, i know its probably not the best but worked a treat for me. I built the hydraulic one for 2 full sets i need to do shortly, i tested it with the old cups and worked really well but its a lot of work for something you will only use once, thats why the hammer or threaded rod is a better option. I spent the better part of a day building it, machining threads take time....
I guess it depends on just how bad the wear ring is.... If its badly damaged it may be best to get a new one, you don't want to do the job again..... If its only the other edge you may get away with it as the seal runs more or less in the centre of the ring.
FYI its not a bother, if you have questions, keep them coming!
Use an old bearing cup, cut it into 2 equal pieces. Use a large hose clamp to hold it together on the axle. Hold it so it lines up on the seal and use a hammer on the hub to knock the seal into the axle tube. Ensure the sprocket and chain are on the axle when yo do tis, as you will NOT be able to get it on without breaking the chain.The porta power sounds like the way to go but wasn't to bad with the 1" - 14 rod. I used disks to keep the rod centered in the axle housing. Figured I'd better ask before I run into another road block. The axle seal tool how is that made? I've got the old cones and think I'm supposed to cut them in half and maybe weld them together? And where are they installed at the hub or right below the wear ring? Do you have any pictures? Thanks again for all the help.
Sorry, i don't have any pictures. When i did it i just wanted to finish and didn't think of taking any, sorry.
Does all that make sense?
Yes that makes sense. Just wasn't sure because either you or someone else said about the same thing but then someone else was welding two bearing cups together. So wasn't sure if they were welded end to end or across the width. Cut in half and a hose clamp sounds pretty easy to fab up. Thanks again!Use an old bearing cup, cut it into 2 equal pieces. Use a large hose clamp to hold it together on the axle. Hold it so it lines up on the seal and use a hammer on the hub to knock the seal into the axle tube. Ensure the sprocket and chain are on the axle when yo do tis, as you will NOT be able to get it on without breaking the chain.
Sorry, i don't have any pictures. When i did it i just wanted to finish and didn't think of taking any, sorry.
Does all that make sense?
What size bolt holds the axle on? I got very lucky and was able to catch a few threads on the front axle but thought I'd better buy a longer one before I strip the threads trying to use the factory bolt. Any suggestions for lining up the rear axle and sprocket? I gave it a shot but that thing is heavy. Would a spacer block underneath work? Thanks again for all the help!Use an old bearing cup, cut it into 2 equal pieces. Use a large hose clamp to hold it together on the axle. Hold it so it lines up on the seal and use a hammer on the hub to knock the seal into the axle tube. Ensure the sprocket and chain are on the axle when yo do tis, as you will NOT be able to get it on without breaking the chain.
Sorry, i don't have any pictures. When i did it i just wanted to finish and didn't think of taking any, sorry.
Does all that make sense?
Sorry i can't help with bolt thread size, but if you can put a block under the sprocket that would surly assist you. They are indeed heavy, especially with the chain on and you have to lift it and push it to the back!What size bolt holds the axle on? I got very lucky and was able to catch a few threads on the front axle but thought I'd better buy a longer one before I strip the threads trying to use the factory bolt. Any suggestions for lining up the rear axle and sprocket? I gave it a shot but that thing is heavy. Would a spacer block underneath work? Thanks again for all the help!
Can you take the bolt to a bolt shop to get it matched?
Just an update. The longer bolt didn't do me much good because of limited clearance but was able to get the sprockets on far enough to use the regular bolts. Found it best with limited clearance to grab the bottom of the sprocket and just push it back. The chain then help lift it and wasn't as much trouble as I thought locating it on the axle splines. Ran about 20 hours with no leaks before the side of the motor blew out. Does a V2203 motor fit without modifications?Sorry i can't help with bolt thread size, but if you can put a block under the sprocket that would surly assist you. They are indeed heavy, especially with the chain on and you have to lift it and push it to the back!
Can you take the bolt to a bolt shop to get it matched?
YIKES, thats some bad luck you have been having...Just an update. The longer bolt didn't do me much good because of limited clearance but was able to get the sprockets on far enough to use the regular bolts. Found it best with limited clearance to grab the bottom of the sprocket and just push it back. The chain then help lift it and wasn't as much trouble as I thought locating it on the axle splines. Ran about 20 hours with no leaks before the side of the motor blew out. Does a V2203 motor fit without modifications?
A 2203 will drop in, but you will need to swap over sumps and intake and i think exhaust manifolds. Be warned, the extra power can cause the pumps to over heat. My local dealer always told me to never go over 1.9L when swapping out a V1702 in a 743, just be aware.
